Novita Merino 4PLY: Jäätanssi (Ice Dance) knitted leggings

As low as €5.54

Knitted from Novita Merino 4ply, the Jäätanssi cabled leggings fit tightly, so they work well both as homewear and as a layer of clothing. The legs are knitted in the round up to the crotch. The rest of each leg is then worked flat, and the pieces are joined by sewing the crotch seam.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
25
Intermediate
Customize Novita Merino 4PLY: Jäätanssi (Ice Dance) knitted leggings

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    €5.54

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    Availability: In stock

    N042125
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    (112) Forget-me-not 250(250)300(300)350 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles and circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 60 cm / 24 in) Novita 3–3.5 mm (UK 10–11 / US 2½–4) or size needed for gauge



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Right leg

    Cast on 64(64)68(72)76 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. Begin ribbing in the round with p1, k2 (p1, k2) k1 (p1, k2) k1. Then *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of round. Work ribbing for 6 cm. Place a marker at the midpoint of the piece (at a p2 stripe).

    Work stockinette st and begin the lace and cable pattern at the centre of the piece on row 1 of the chart: work stockinette st to last 21 sts before marker and at the same time decrease 0(0)1(1)1 st, work the 45 st pattern (42+3 sts), work stockinette st to end of round and at the same time decrease 0(0)1(1)1 st. 67(67)69(73)77 sts now on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–21 of the chart.

    Note: When the piece measures 7(7)8(8)8 cm, begin increases on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to end, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop). Repeat the increases every 3.5(3)2(2)2 cm 10(12)3(2)4 more times. Sizes M(L)XL only: Repeat the increases every 3 cm a further 10(11)10 times. 89(93)97(101)107 sts on the needles, 22(24)26(28)31 sts on both sides of the lace pattern (45 sts).

    Increase as established 14(12)12(14)16 more times every 1.5 cm and then 5(8)9(7)5 times every 1 cm. 127(133)139(143)149 sts on the needles, 41(44)47(49)52 sts on both sides of the lace pattern (45 sts).

    Note: Switch to the 40 cm circular needle when you have enough sts.

     

    When the piece measures approx. 75(76)78(80)82 cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work next round to last 5(6)6(6)6 sts, bind off 5(6)6(6)6 sts for back crotch, bind off first 4 sts of next round for front crotch = 118(123)129(133)139 sts.

    Switch to working back and forth and continue decreases for the crotch: Bind off for back crotch at the left end: 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)2x2 sts, 1(2)2(4)3x1 st on every other row; then 3x1 st on every 4th row and 2(3)3(3)4x1 st on every 6th row. At the same time bind off for front crotch at the right end: 1x2 sts and 3(2)2(2)2x1 st on every other row, then 3x1 st on every 4th row. 99(103)107(111)115 sts on the needles: 25(25)26(28)29 sts of stockinette st at the left end, 45 st pattern, 29(33)36(38)41 sts of stockinette st at the right end.

    When the crotch measures 22(22)23(24)25 cm, work short rows to shape the waist:

    Row 1: (WS) work 76(76)76(78)77 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    RS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (WS) work 71(71)71(73)75 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 51(51)51(53)55 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 38(38)38(40)42 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 20(20)20(22)24 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    After row 9, leave the sts on hold.

     

    Left leg

    Mirror right leg. When the crotch measures 22(22)23(24)25 cm, work short rows to shape the waist:

    Row 1: (RS) work 76(76)76(78)77 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    WS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) work 71(71)71(73)75 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 51(51)51(53)55 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 38(38)38(40)42 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 20(20)20(22)24 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    After row 9, work the WS row once more. Then work ribbing as follows (note: knit the loops of each double st together): (RS) k1, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* and at the same time decrease 3 sts at the same points in the lace and cable pattern as where you increased on row 1, p2, k1 = 96(100)104(108)112 sts. Work the sts of the right leg onto the same needle: (RS) k1, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* and at the same time decrease 3 sts at the same points in the lace and cable pattern as where you increased on row 1, p2, k1. 192(200)208(216)224 sts on the needles. Work ribbing in the round.

    Note: When the ribbing measures 2 cm, make holes for the drawstring on both sides of the k2 at the front midpoint: work to last 3 sts before front midpoint (in between the 2 knit sts), yarn over, purl together the 2 purl sts, k2, purl together the 2 purl sts, yarn over, work to end.

    When the border measures 8 cm, bind off in ribbing.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the crotch seams.

    Fold the waist ribbing and sew the edge to the inside. Make an approx. 110(110)120(120)130 cm long drawstring by twisting 7 strands of yarn together. Insert the drawstring.

    Steam the leggings lightly.

    Finished dimensions

    waist circumference 66(68)72(76)80 cm / 26(26¾)28¼(30)31½ in

    inner leg length 75(76)78(80)82 cm / 29½(30)30¾(31½)32¼ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*

    Right leg

    Cast on 64(64)68(72)76 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. Begin ribbing in the round with p1, k2 (p1, k2) k1 (p1, k2) k1. Then *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of round. Work ribbing for 6 cm. Place a marker at the midpoint of the piece (at a p2 stripe).

    Work stockinette st and begin the lace and cable pattern at the centre of the piece on row 1 of the chart: work stockinette st to last 21 sts before marker and at the same time decrease 0(0)1(1)1 st, work the 45 st pattern (42+3 sts), work stockinette st to end of round and at the same time decrease 0(0)1(1)1 st. 67(67)69(73)77 sts now on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–21 of the chart.

    Note: When the piece measures 7(7)8(8)8 cm, begin increases on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to end, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop). Repeat the increases every 3.5(3)2(2)2 cm 10(12)3(2)4 more times. Sizes M(L)XL only: Repeat the increases every 3 cm a further 10(11)10 times. 89(93)97(101)107 sts on the needles, 22(24)26(28)31 sts on both sides of the lace pattern (45 sts).

    Increase as established 14(12)12(14)16 more times every 1.5 cm and then 5(8)9(7)5 times every 1 cm. 127(133)139(143)149 sts on the needles, 41(44)47(49)52 sts on both sides of the lace pattern (45 sts).

    Note: Switch to the 40 cm circular needle when you have enough sts.

     

    When the piece measures approx. 75(76)78(80)82 cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work next round to last 5(6)6(6)6 sts, bind off 5(6)6(6)6 sts for back crotch, bind off first 4 sts of next round for front crotch = 118(123)129(133)139 sts.

    Switch to working back and forth and continue decreases for the crotch: Bind off for back crotch at the left end: 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)2x2 sts, 1(2)2(4)3x1 st on every other row; then 3x1 st on every 4th row and 2(3)3(3)4x1 st on every 6th row. At the same time bind off for front crotch at the right end: 1x2 sts and 3(2)2(2)2x1 st on every other row, then 3x1 st on every 4th row. 99(103)107(111)115 sts on the needles: 25(25)26(28)29 sts of stockinette st at the left end, 45 st pattern, 29(33)36(38)41 sts of stockinette st at the right end.

    When the crotch measures 22(22)23(24)25 cm, work short rows to shape the waist:

    Row 1: (WS) work 76(76)76(78)77 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    RS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (WS) work 71(71)71(73)75 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 51(51)51(53)55 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 38(38)38(40)42 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 20(20)20(22)24 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    After row 9, leave the sts on hold.

     

    Left leg

    Mirror right leg. When the crotch measures 22(22)23(24)25 cm, work short rows to shape the waist:

    Row 1: (RS) work 76(76)76(78)77 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    WS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) work 71(71)71(73)75 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 51(51)51(53)55 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 38(38)38(40)42 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 20(20)20(22)24 sts, turn work and yarn over.

    After row 9, work the WS row once more. Then work ribbing as follows (note: knit the loops of each double st together): (RS) k1, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* and at the same time decrease 3 sts at the same points in the lace and cable pattern as where you increased on row 1, p2, k1 = 96(100)104(108)112 sts. Work the sts of the right leg onto the same needle: (RS) k1, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* and at the same time decrease 3 sts at the same points in the lace and cable pattern as where you increased on row 1, p2, k1. 192(200)208(216)224 sts on the needles. Work ribbing in the round.

    Note: When the ribbing measures 2 cm, make holes for the drawstring on both sides of the k2 at the front midpoint: work to last 3 sts before front midpoint (in between the 2 knit sts), yarn over, purl together the 2 purl sts, k2, purl together the 2 purl sts, yarn over, work to end.

    When the border measures 8 cm, bind off in ribbing.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the crotch seams.

    Fold the waist ribbing and sew the edge to the inside. Make an approx. 110(110)120(120)130 cm long drawstring by twisting 7 strands of yarn together. Insert the drawstring.

    Steam the leggings lightly.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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