Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Merino 4PLY: Freija-knitted cardigan
As low as €6.96
Have you ever seen a more beautiful yoke? The cute nubs complete the yoke pattern, reminiscent of feathers. The cardigan is worked top down, the button bands are worked using intarsia. The Novita Merino 4PLY yarn is made from sustainable European merino wool.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
31
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N022231
Size
92/98(104/110)116/122(128/134)140/146 cmYarn demand
Novita Merino 4ply
(649) Chanterelle 100(100)150(150)200 g
(006) Semolina 50(50)50(100)100 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita circular needles (60 cm / 24”) size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9) and for the sleeves Novita dpns size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9) or size needed to fit gauge
Notions: 6 buttons
Designer
Minttu WikbergYoke
CO 102(107)112(117)122 sts for neckline, using 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) size ndls and color Semolina. Work back and forth and always slip the first st of every row. Work the first and last 6 sts of every row in g st, work the 90(95)100(105)110 sts in between in twisted ribbing.
When work measures 1,5 cm / 0.6”, work a buttonhole at the end of the RS row, as follows: work in pattern to the last 6 sts, k2, k2tog, yo and k2. Rep these buttonholes as described, every 6(6,5)7(7,5)8 cm / 2.4(2.6)2.8(3)3.2” 5 more times. The top button will be 1.5 cm/5.9” from the top edge and the bottom button 1.5 cm/5.9” from the bottom edge.
Work twisted ribbing for 2.5 cm/1”, end with a RS row. Change to 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9) .
Continue working the 6 sts of both button bands on each side of the work in g st, using the intarsia technique, in color Semolina, to end of work. Don’t forget to make the buttonholes. Work the sts in between the button bands as follows: purl 1 row, then continue working row 1 of colorwork pattern acc to chart. Work patt rep of 5 sts 18(19)20(21)22 times. Work rows 2-4 of chart. In row 5, increase 36(38)40(42)44 sts acc to chart, i.e. 2 sts in every patt rep = 138(145)152(159)166 sts. Note: If the colorwork pattern is worked tighter than when working single-colored st st, work the colorwork section using a larger size ndls (= 4 mm (US 6/UK 8)).
Work rows 6-19 of chart and at the same time, inc 36(38)40(42)44 sts in rows 9, 13 and 19, acc to chart, i.e. 2 sts in every patt rep. Work rows 20-33 of chart and at the same time, inc 18(19)20(21)22 sts in rows 23 and 33, acc to chart, but, for all sizes except for sizes 104/110 and 128/134, omit the inc in the last patt rep in row 33 = 282(296)312(326)342 sts. Mind the bobbles in row 31!
Continue working in st st in color Chanterelle and work the button bands in g st in color Semolina.
When yoke, from CO edge, measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm / 5.1(5.5)5.9(6.3)6.7”, divide work into 5 parts, as follows: 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts, 55(58)62(65)69 sleeve-sts, 80(84)88(92)96 back-sts, 55(58)62(65)69 sleeve-sts and 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts. Place markers between the parts and place the sleeve-sts on hold.
Front and back, lower part
Continue working in st st using color Chanterelle and work the button bands in g st using color Semolina. Note: Don’t forget to work the buttonholes. Work 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts, CO 5(6)6(7)7 new sts for armhole, work 80(84)88(92)96 back-sts, CO 5(6)6(7)7 new sts for second armhole and work the 46(48)50(52)54 sts of other half of front part = 182(192)200(210)218 sts.
When work, from armhole, measures 13(14)15(17)19 cm / 5.1(5.5)5.9(6.3)7.5”, change to smaller size ndls and continue working back and forth in twisted ribbing for 7(7)8(8)8 cm / 2.8(2.8)3.2(3.2)3.2”. BO all sts in pattern.
Sleeves
Place 55(58)62(65)69 sts of 1 sleeve back onto a set of dpns size 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9). Continue working in st st using color Chanterelle and PUK a total of 7(8)8(9)9 sts from underarm CO edge. There are now 62(66)70(74)78 sleeve-sts. Distribute the sts evenly over the dpns and work 2 cm/0.8” in st st in the round. Beg of rnd is in the middle of the picked-up sts at the underarm CO edge.
In the next rnd, start decreasing for sleeve shaping, as follows: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Rep these dec’s every 3 cm/1.2” 4(5)6(7)8 more times = 52(54)56(58)60 sts.
When sleeve, from armhole, measures 21(24)25(28)30 cm / 8.3(9.5)9.8(11)11.8”, dec 8 sts evenly spaced in the next rnd = 44(46)48(50)52 sts.
Change to ndl size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and work twisted ribbing in the round for 5(5)6(6)6 cm / 2(2)2.4(2.4)2.4” and in the next rnd, BO all sts in pattern.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the cardigan inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry or lightly steam the cardigan. Sew buttons on and weave in all ends.
Abbreviations:
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
M = marker
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
PUK = pick up and knit
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
tbl = through back loop
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations chart and legend:
649 Pfifferling = 649 Chanterelle
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, knit on WS row
nach rechts geneigte Zunahme: mit der linken Nadel den Querfaden zwischen zwei M von hinten aufnehmen und durch das vordere Maschenglied stricken.
=
Right leaning increase: using left needle tip, pick up the bar between the st on the left ndl and the st on the right ndl, from back to front, and knit this st into the front loop.
nach links geneigte Zunahme: mit der linken Nadel den Querfaden zwischen zwei
M von vorne aufnehmen und durch das hintere Maschenglied verschränkt stricken
=
Left leaning increase: using left needle tip, pick up the bar between the st on the left ndl and the st on the right ndl, from front to back, and knit this st into the back loop.
5 M-Noppe: 1. R.: in eine M 1 M re, Umschlag, 1 M re, Umschlag, 1 M re stricken
und dann erst die M von der linken Nadel fallen lassen, Arbeit wenden. 2. R.: 5 M li
stricken und Arbeit wenden. 3. R.: 5 M re stricken und Arbeit wenden. 4. R.: 5 M li
stricken und Arbeit wenden. 5. R.: 2 M ungestrickt abheben, 3 M re zusammen stricken,
die abgehobenen M über die zusammengestrickte M heben. Es bleibt 1 M übrig.
=
5 st-bobble: Row 1: work (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, let st slide off the ndl, turn work. Row 2: p5 and turn work. Row 3: k5 and turn work. Row 4: p5 and turn work. Row 5: sl 1 purlwise, sl 1 purlwise, k3tog, pass the 2 slipped sts over. Only 1 st remains.
Strickrichtung = Knitting direction
Diagramm = Chart
Musterrapport wiederholt sich = Pattern repeat
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements:
Chest circumference: 68(72)76(80)84 cm / 26.8(28.4)29.9(31.5) 33.1”
Length mid front/mid back: 33(35)38(41)44 cm /13(13.8)15(16.1)17.3”
Underarm length: 26(29)31(34)36 cm / 10.2(11.4)12.2(13.4)14.2”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 tbl, p1, rep from *. Twisted ribbing worked flat: WS: *k1, p1 tbl, rep from * to end of row; RS: *k1 tbl, p1, rep from * to end of row. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all sts. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Garter stitch worked flat: in RS and WS rows, knit all sts. Colorwork pattern: work in st st acc to instructions and chart. Intarsia button bands : Use a separate ball of yarn for each colored area and always twist the yarns of different colors together at the back of the work when changing colors, to avoid holes.
Gauge/Tension: 26 sts and 34 rows in st st, using the larger size ndls = 10 cm/4”
Note: The cardigan is worked top down, in one piece. The knitting direction is shown in the schematic drawing.
Yoke
CO 102(107)112(117)122 sts for neckline, using 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) size ndls and color Semolina. Work back and forth and always slip the first st of every row. Work the first and last 6 sts of every row in g st, work the 90(95)100(105)110 sts in between in twisted ribbing.
When work measures 1,5 cm / 0.6”, work a buttonhole at the end of the RS row, as follows: work in pattern to the last 6 sts, k2, k2tog, yo and k2. Rep these buttonholes as described, every 6(6,5)7(7,5)8 cm / 2.4(2.6)2.8(3)3.2” 5 more times. The top button will be 1.5 cm/5.9” from the top edge and the bottom button 1.5 cm/5.9” from the bottom edge.
Work twisted ribbing for 2.5 cm/1”, end with a RS row. Change to 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9) .
Continue working the 6 sts of both button bands on each side of the work in g st, using the intarsia technique, in color Semolina, to end of work. Don’t forget to make the buttonholes. Work the sts in between the button bands as follows: purl 1 row, then continue working row 1 of colorwork pattern acc to chart. Work patt rep of 5 sts 18(19)20(21)22 times. Work rows 2-4 of chart. In row 5, increase 36(38)40(42)44 sts acc to chart, i.e. 2 sts in every patt rep = 138(145)152(159)166 sts. Note: If the colorwork pattern is worked tighter than when working single-colored st st, work the colorwork section using a larger size ndls (= 4 mm (US 6/UK 8)).
Work rows 6-19 of chart and at the same time, inc 36(38)40(42)44 sts in rows 9, 13 and 19, acc to chart, i.e. 2 sts in every patt rep. Work rows 20-33 of chart and at the same time, inc 18(19)20(21)22 sts in rows 23 and 33, acc to chart, but, for all sizes except for sizes 104/110 and 128/134, omit the inc in the last patt rep in row 33 = 282(296)312(326)342 sts. Mind the bobbles in row 31!
Continue working in st st in color Chanterelle and work the button bands in g st in color Semolina.
When yoke, from CO edge, measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm / 5.1(5.5)5.9(6.3)6.7”, divide work into 5 parts, as follows: 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts, 55(58)62(65)69 sleeve-sts, 80(84)88(92)96 back-sts, 55(58)62(65)69 sleeve-sts and 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts. Place markers between the parts and place the sleeve-sts on hold.
Front and back, lower part
Continue working in st st using color Chanterelle and work the button bands in g st using color Semolina. Note: Don’t forget to work the buttonholes. Work 46(48)50(52)54 front-sts, CO 5(6)6(7)7 new sts for armhole, work 80(84)88(92)96 back-sts, CO 5(6)6(7)7 new sts for second armhole and work the 46(48)50(52)54 sts of other half of front part = 182(192)200(210)218 sts.
When work, from armhole, measures 13(14)15(17)19 cm / 5.1(5.5)5.9(6.3)7.5”, change to smaller size ndls and continue working back and forth in twisted ribbing for 7(7)8(8)8 cm / 2.8(2.8)3.2(3.2)3.2”. BO all sts in pattern.
Sleeves
Place 55(58)62(65)69 sts of 1 sleeve back onto a set of dpns size 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9). Continue working in st st using color Chanterelle and PUK a total of 7(8)8(9)9 sts from underarm CO edge. There are now 62(66)70(74)78 sleeve-sts. Distribute the sts evenly over the dpns and work 2 cm/0.8” in st st in the round. Beg of rnd is in the middle of the picked-up sts at the underarm CO edge.
In the next rnd, start decreasing for sleeve shaping, as follows: k1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Rep these dec’s every 3 cm/1.2” 4(5)6(7)8 more times = 52(54)56(58)60 sts.
When sleeve, from armhole, measures 21(24)25(28)30 cm / 8.3(9.5)9.8(11)11.8”, dec 8 sts evenly spaced in the next rnd = 44(46)48(50)52 sts.
Change to ndl size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and work twisted ribbing in the round for 5(5)6(6)6 cm / 2(2)2.4(2.4)2.4” and in the next rnd, BO all sts in pattern.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the cardigan inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry or lightly steam the cardigan. Sew buttons on and weave in all ends.
Abbreviations:
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
M = marker
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
PUK = pick up and knit
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
tbl = through back loop
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations chart and legend:
649 Pfifferling = 649 Chanterelle
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, knit on WS row
nach rechts geneigte Zunahme: mit der linken Nadel den Querfaden zwischen zwei M von hinten aufnehmen und durch das vordere Maschenglied stricken.
=
Right leaning increase: using left needle tip, pick up the bar between the st on the left ndl and the st on the right ndl, from back to front, and knit this st into the front loop.
nach links geneigte Zunahme: mit der linken Nadel den Querfaden zwischen zwei
M von vorne aufnehmen und durch das hintere Maschenglied verschränkt stricken
=
Left leaning increase: using left needle tip, pick up the bar between the st on the left ndl and the st on the right ndl, from front to back, and knit this st into the back loop.
5 M-Noppe: 1. R.: in eine M 1 M re, Umschlag, 1 M re, Umschlag, 1 M re stricken
und dann erst die M von der linken Nadel fallen lassen, Arbeit wenden. 2. R.: 5 M li
stricken und Arbeit wenden. 3. R.: 5 M re stricken und Arbeit wenden. 4. R.: 5 M li
stricken und Arbeit wenden. 5. R.: 2 M ungestrickt abheben, 3 M re zusammen stricken,
die abgehobenen M über die zusammengestrickte M heben. Es bleibt 1 M übrig.
=
5 st-bobble: Row 1: work (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, let st slide off the ndl, turn work. Row 2: p5 and turn work. Row 3: k5 and turn work. Row 4: p5 and turn work. Row 5: sl 1 purlwise, sl 1 purlwise, k3tog, pass the 2 slipped sts over. Only 1 st remains.
Strickrichtung = Knitting direction
Diagramm = Chart
Musterrapport wiederholt sich = Pattern repeat
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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