Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Merino 4 PLY: Aarni textured knit sweater
As low as €4.03
This high-collared zipper sweater is the trendiest garment of the autumn. Knitted from Novita Merino 4PLY, the Aarni sweater is knitted in the round from the hem up, with no need for sewing except for the short underarm seams and the zipper.
Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
4
Expert
Availability: In stock
N03214
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Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Merino 4 PLY
(388) Pine 400(450)500(550)600(650) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3.25–3.5 mm (UK 10 / US 3–4) or sizes needed; cable needle; 3 mm and 3.25–3.5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique
Other supplies Zipper, 20 cm (Nappitalo, Helsinki)
Designer
Ronja HakalehtoBody
The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm), cast on 282(302)318(338)358(378) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.
Switch to the larger circular needle. Work double seed st and begin the cable pattern in the front and back on row 1 of the chart: *work 33(38)42(47)52(57) sts in double seed st, repeat 25 st cable pattern 3 times (= 75 sts), work 33(38)42(47)52(57) sts in double seed st*, place side marker, repeat *–*. In the cable, work rows 2–32, then keep repeating rows 1–32.
When the piece measures approx. 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, *work next round to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)12(14)16(18) sts for armhole*, repeat *–*. 133(141)147(155)163(171) sts in the front and back. Leave the sts on hold.
Sleeves
Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique.
Using the smaller needles, cast on 66(68)70(72)74(76) sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 6(8)8(10)10(10) sts = 72(76)78(82)84(86) sts.
Switch to the larger needles. Work double seed st and begin the cable pattern in the middle on row 1 of the chart: work 23(25)26(28)29(30) sts in double seed st, work 25 st cable pattern, work 24(26)27(29)30(31) sts in double seed st. In the cable, work rows 2–32, then keep repeating rows 1–32.
When the piece measures 7(8)11(12)9(9) cm, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) on both sides of the beginning of round, 1 st from the marker. Repeat the increases every 2.5(2.5)2(2)2(2) cm 16(16)18(18)20(21) more times = 106(110)116(120)126(130) sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.
When the piece measures approx. 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, bind off the last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of the next round and the first 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of the round after that. Leave the remaining 98(100)104(106)110(112) sts on hold.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Yoke
Place the sts on the larger circular needle: 133(141)147(155)163(171) back sts, 98(100)104(106)110(112) sleeve sts, 133(141)147(155)163(171) front sts, 98(100)104(106)110(112) sleeve sts = 462(482)502(522)546(566) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.
Work double seed st and cable pattern in the round and begin the raglan decreases: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Sleeve: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Front: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Sleeve: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. 8 sts decreased, 454(474)494(514)538(558) sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases in the back and front 5(4)4(3)1(0) more times on every 4th round and then 35(38)40(44)48(53) times on every other round; at the same time, decrease in the sleeves 5(4)4(5)1(3) more times on every 4th round and then 35(38)40(40)48(47) times on every other round.
Note: When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)14(15) cm, work the middle 35 front sts in ribbing, with p1 at the midpoint; with the other sts, work as established. Work for 1 cm. On the next even-numbered row, bind off the middle 3 rib sts for the slit. Now work back and forth. At both ends, work 1 st in garter st. Make the raglan decreases on RS rows.
Note: On the next row, start widening the ribbed section by decreasing in the cable section and increasing in the ribbed section:
1st decrease and increase row: (RS) k1 (left edge of the slit), work 15 sts in ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, skp, work to last 19 sts, k2tog, k1, increase 1 purl st, work ribbing, k1.
Work 4(3)3(3)2(2) rows even.
2nd decrease and increase row: (RS) k1 (left edge of the slit), work 16 sts in ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, skp, work to last 20 sts, k2tog, k1, increase 1 knit st, work ribbing, k1.
Work 4(3)3(3)2(2) rows even.
Repeat the decreases and increases as established 6(8)9(10)12(13) more times. Work the increased sts in ribbing.
After you have finished the raglan decreases, there are 131(135)139(143)143(143) sts on the needles: 16(14)14(14)10(10) sts in the sleeves, 51(55)57(59)63(63) sts in the back and 48(52)54(56)60(60) sts in the front.
At both ends keep working 1 st in garter st; with the other sts, work ribbing for 18 cm.
Next row: work 24(26)27(28)30(31) sts in ribbing, loosely bind off the next 83(83)85(87)83(81) sts, work 24(26)27(28)30(31) sts in ribbing. Leave the sts on the other side on hold. With the other sts, work ribbing and decrease 1 st at the shoulder end. Repeat the decreases on every 5th(4th)4th(4th)3rd(3rd) row 6(8)9(10)12(13) more times. Work ribbing with the collar folded to the inside until you reach the bottom edge of the front ribbing. Bind off. On the other side of the collar, mirror the first side.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the underarm seams. Fold the collar and sew the edges to the edge of the ribbing. Leave the zipper edge unsewn.
Sew on the zipper.
Finished dimensions
Finished dimensions
body circumference 96(104)110(118)126(134) cm / 37¾(41)43¼(46½)49½(52¾) in
middle back length 64(66)68(70)72(74) cm / 25¼(26)26¾(27½)28¼(29¼) in
inner sleeve length 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm / 19¼(19¾)20(20½)20½(20¾) in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Double seed stitch: Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Rows 2 and 4: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Row 3: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*.
Gauge 25 sts and 42 rows in double seed st = 10 cm / 4 in
Note The sweater is knitted in the round, and there are short underarm seams.
Body
The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm), cast on 282(302)318(338)358(378) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.
Switch to the larger circular needle. Work double seed st and begin the cable pattern in the front and back on row 1 of the chart: *work 33(38)42(47)52(57) sts in double seed st, repeat 25 st cable pattern 3 times (= 75 sts), work 33(38)42(47)52(57) sts in double seed st*, place side marker, repeat *–*. In the cable, work rows 2–32, then keep repeating rows 1–32.
When the piece measures approx. 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, *work next round to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)12(14)16(18) sts for armhole*, repeat *–*. 133(141)147(155)163(171) sts in the front and back. Leave the sts on hold.
Sleeves
Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique.
Using the smaller needles, cast on 66(68)70(72)74(76) sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 6(8)8(10)10(10) sts = 72(76)78(82)84(86) sts.
Switch to the larger needles. Work double seed st and begin the cable pattern in the middle on row 1 of the chart: work 23(25)26(28)29(30) sts in double seed st, work 25 st cable pattern, work 24(26)27(29)30(31) sts in double seed st. In the cable, work rows 2–32, then keep repeating rows 1–32.
When the piece measures 7(8)11(12)9(9) cm, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) on both sides of the beginning of round, 1 st from the marker. Repeat the increases every 2.5(2.5)2(2)2(2) cm 16(16)18(18)20(21) more times = 106(110)116(120)126(130) sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.
When the piece measures approx. 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, bind off the last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of the next round and the first 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of the round after that. Leave the remaining 98(100)104(106)110(112) sts on hold.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Yoke
Place the sts on the larger circular needle: 133(141)147(155)163(171) back sts, 98(100)104(106)110(112) sleeve sts, 133(141)147(155)163(171) front sts, 98(100)104(106)110(112) sleeve sts = 462(482)502(522)546(566) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.
Work double seed st and cable pattern in the round and begin the raglan decreases: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Sleeve: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Front: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker. Sleeve: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. 8 sts decreased, 454(474)494(514)538(558) sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases in the back and front 5(4)4(3)1(0) more times on every 4th round and then 35(38)40(44)48(53) times on every other round; at the same time, decrease in the sleeves 5(4)4(5)1(3) more times on every 4th round and then 35(38)40(40)48(47) times on every other round.
Note: When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)14(15) cm, work the middle 35 front sts in ribbing, with p1 at the midpoint; with the other sts, work as established. Work for 1 cm. On the next even-numbered row, bind off the middle 3 rib sts for the slit. Now work back and forth. At both ends, work 1 st in garter st. Make the raglan decreases on RS rows.
Note: On the next row, start widening the ribbed section by decreasing in the cable section and increasing in the ribbed section:
1st decrease and increase row: (RS) k1 (left edge of the slit), work 15 sts in ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, skp, work to last 19 sts, k2tog, k1, increase 1 purl st, work ribbing, k1.
Work 4(3)3(3)2(2) rows even.
2nd decrease and increase row: (RS) k1 (left edge of the slit), work 16 sts in ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, skp, work to last 20 sts, k2tog, k1, increase 1 knit st, work ribbing, k1.
Work 4(3)3(3)2(2) rows even.
Repeat the decreases and increases as established 6(8)9(10)12(13) more times. Work the increased sts in ribbing.
After you have finished the raglan decreases, there are 131(135)139(143)143(143) sts on the needles: 16(14)14(14)10(10) sts in the sleeves, 51(55)57(59)63(63) sts in the back and 48(52)54(56)60(60) sts in the front.
At both ends keep working 1 st in garter st; with the other sts, work ribbing for 18 cm.
Next row: work 24(26)27(28)30(31) sts in ribbing, loosely bind off the next 83(83)85(87)83(81) sts, work 24(26)27(28)30(31) sts in ribbing. Leave the sts on the other side on hold. With the other sts, work ribbing and decrease 1 st at the shoulder end. Repeat the decreases on every 5th(4th)4th(4th)3rd(3rd) row 6(8)9(10)12(13) more times. Work ribbing with the collar folded to the inside until you reach the bottom edge of the front ribbing. Bind off. On the other side of the collar, mirror the first side.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the underarm seams. Fold the collar and sew the edges to the edge of the ribbing. Leave the zipper edge unsewn.
Sew on the zipper.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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