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Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan

Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan

As low as €3.30

The loose and relaxed Tundra cardigan goes with all kinds of outfits. Knitted from Novita Isoveli, this long cardigan will be your best friend on cold winter days and cool summer nights alike.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 29
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
Novita circular needles 80 cm-5.0 mm
€3.80
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-5.0 mm
€3.30

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Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan
Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012129
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand

    Novita Isoveli

    (061) Linen 1100(1150)1200(1250)1300 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed; a second 5 mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the border; 5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves



    Designer
    Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)

    Details

    Back


    Cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work rib-bing for 8 cm.


    Work garter st and on the first row decrease 1 st by k2tog = 98(104)110(116)124 sts.


    When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 10 cm 3 more times = 90(96)102(108)116 sts.


    When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 74(80)86(92)100 sts.


    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off 2x5(5)5(6)7 sts at both ends for the shoulders.


    On the next row bind off the first 4(5)6(6)7 sts, work garter st until there are 9(11)13(13)14 sts on the right-hand needle, bind off the next (ie. middle) 28(28)28(30)30 sts for the neckline, work to end of row. Work one side at a time:


    Row 1: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 2: bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.


    Row 3: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 4: knit to end of row.


    Row 5: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.


    Break yarn and work the other side:


    Row 1: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.


    Row 2: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 3: knit to end of row.


    Row 4: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.



    Left front


    Cast on 45(47)51(53)57 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 8 cm. Work garter st.


    When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 10 cm 3 more times = 41(43)47(49)53 sts.


    When the piece measures 51(52)53(55)56 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end (front edge): (RS) work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 3 cm 10(9)10(10)10 more times.


    Note: When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.


    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 2x5 sts and 3x4 sts (5x5 sts) 2x5 sts and 3x6 sts (5x6 sts) 4x7 sts and 1x6 sts at the shoulder.



    Right front


    Mirror the left front. Work the neckline decreases by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over).



    Sleeves


    Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 44(46)46(48)50 and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 8 cm, then work garter st in the round.


    When the piece measures 14(12)12(13)13 cm and you have last worked a purl round, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, kfb (= knit the next st first through the front loop and then through the back loop), work to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 10(11)13(12)12 more times = 66(70)74(74)76 sts.


    When the piece measures approx. 53(54)54(55)55 cm and you have last worked a purl round, switch to working flat and on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.


    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.



    Finishing


    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.


    Sew the shoulder seams.


    The border is worked one side at a time. First pick up and knit sts from the left side of the cardigan. With RS facing, start at the back midpoint and pick up and knit sts from the back neckline, left front neckline and left front edge. Pick up approx. 20 sts per 10 cm (make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st). Begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row.


    After 3 rows (finish with the WS row), divide the back and front neckline sts (the slanted front section) into six groups that are about the same size. Place markers at the edges of the groups.


    RS: work from the back midpoint to the 6th marker (bottom edge of neckline slanting), turn work, slip first st, work to end. Next row: work to 5th marker, turn work, slip first st, work to end. Turn work a total of 6 times at each of the markers.


    After you have completed the short rows, continue with all sts. When the border measures 8 cm at the hem, loosely bind off in pattern.


    Knit the right border in the same manner.


    Sew the middle back seam. Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.


    With RS facing, sew the side seams stitch by stitch using overcast seaming (= align the edges with no space in between, making sure the pieces are level).

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 110(118)126(134)142 cm / 43¼(46½)49½(52¾)56 in

    length 79(81)83(85)87 cm / 31(32)32¾(33½)34¼ in

    inner sleeve length 53(54)54(55)55 cm / 20¾(21¼)21¼(21¾)21¾ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows.Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.Garter stitch in the round: Round 1: knit all sts. Round 2: purl all sts. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.

    Gauge 16 sts in garter st = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back


    Cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work rib-bing for 8 cm.


    Work garter st and on the first row decrease 1 st by k2tog = 98(104)110(116)124 sts.


    When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 10 cm 3 more times = 90(96)102(108)116 sts.


    When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 74(80)86(92)100 sts.


    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off 2x5(5)5(6)7 sts at both ends for the shoulders.


    On the next row bind off the first 4(5)6(6)7 sts, work garter st until there are 9(11)13(13)14 sts on the right-hand needle, bind off the next (ie. middle) 28(28)28(30)30 sts for the neckline, work to end of row. Work one side at a time:


    Row 1: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 2: bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.


    Row 3: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 4: knit to end of row.


    Row 5: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.


    Break yarn and work the other side:


    Row 1: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.


    Row 2: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.


    Row 3: knit to end of row.


    Row 4: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.



    Left front


    Cast on 45(47)51(53)57 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 8 cm. Work garter st.


    When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 10 cm 3 more times = 41(43)47(49)53 sts.


    When the piece measures 51(52)53(55)56 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end (front edge): (RS) work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 3 cm 10(9)10(10)10 more times.


    Note: When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.


    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 2x5 sts and 3x4 sts (5x5 sts) 2x5 sts and 3x6 sts (5x6 sts) 4x7 sts and 1x6 sts at the shoulder.



    Right front


    Mirror the left front. Work the neckline decreases by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over).



    Sleeves


    Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 44(46)46(48)50 and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 8 cm, then work garter st in the round.


    When the piece measures 14(12)12(13)13 cm and you have last worked a purl round, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, kfb (= knit the next st first through the front loop and then through the back loop), work to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 10(11)13(12)12 more times = 66(70)74(74)76 sts.


    When the piece measures approx. 53(54)54(55)55 cm and you have last worked a purl round, switch to working flat and on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.


    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.



    Finishing


    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.


    Sew the shoulder seams.


    The border is worked one side at a time. First pick up and knit sts from the left side of the cardigan. With RS facing, start at the back midpoint and pick up and knit sts from the back neckline, left front neckline and left front edge. Pick up approx. 20 sts per 10 cm (make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st). Begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row.


    After 3 rows (finish with the WS row), divide the back and front neckline sts (the slanted front section) into six groups that are about the same size. Place markers at the edges of the groups.


    RS: work from the back midpoint to the 6th marker (bottom edge of neckline slanting), turn work, slip first st, work to end. Next row: work to 5th marker, turn work, slip first st, work to end. Turn work a total of 6 times at each of the markers.


    After you have completed the short rows, continue with all sts. When the border measures 8 cm at the hem, loosely bind off in pattern.


    Knit the right border in the same manner.


    Sew the middle back seam. Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.


    With RS facing, sew the side seams stitch by stitch using overcast seaming (= align the edges with no space in between, making sure the pieces are level).


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

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