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Novita Isoveli: Tauko cable socks

As low as €6.96

Aloittelijallekin sopivien Tauko-sukkien sievä yksityiskohta on sukan sivua koristava yksinkertainen palmikko. Sukat neulotaan paksusta Novita Isoveli -langasta.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 21
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Isoveli: Tauko cable socks
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -5.0 mm
€6.96

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Novita Isoveli: Tauko cable socks
Novita Isoveli: Tauko cable socks

In stock

€6.96

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N032121
    Pattern details
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita Isoveli

    (061) Linen <200 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Cast on 40 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 10 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the back midpoint. Begin ribbing in the round: *k1, p2, k1*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 7 cm, then purl 1 round.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 20 st pattern two times. Work rows 2–6, then repeat rows 1–6 four times.

    Now work without cable twists. Work 4 more rounds, then work next round until 10 sts remain on needle IV.

    Begin heel flap: work the sts of needles IV and I onto the same needle: k3, p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* 2 more times, k3 = 20 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work. Work ribbing for 20 rows (approx. 8 cm) in total, finishing with a WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: (RS) k3, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. WS: slip 1, k2, p2, k2, p2tog. Turn work. RS: slip 1, p2, k2, p2, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts on two needles, 4 sts each. Knit the 4 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Using a free needle, pick up 10 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 4 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, work ribbing: k3, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k3. Using the needle with 4 sts, pick up 10 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4.

    Work stockinette st on needles I and IV and ribbing on needles II and III and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 40 sts remain (10 sts on each needle).

    When the sole measures 20 cm or when the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.  

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Kengän koko noin 38/39

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge 17 sts in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in



    Cast on 40 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 10 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the back midpoint. Begin ribbing in the round: *k1, p2, k1*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 7 cm, then purl 1 round.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 20 st pattern two times. Work rows 2–6, then repeat rows 1–6 four times.

    Now work without cable twists. Work 4 more rounds, then work next round until 10 sts remain on needle IV.

    Begin heel flap: work the sts of needles IV and I onto the same needle: k3, p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* 2 more times, k3 = 20 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work. Work ribbing for 20 rows (approx. 8 cm) in total, finishing with a WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: (RS) k3, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. WS: slip 1, k2, p2, k2, p2tog. Turn work. RS: slip 1, p2, k2, p2, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts on two needles, 4 sts each. Knit the 4 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Using a free needle, pick up 10 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 4 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, work ribbing: k3, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k3. Using the needle with 4 sts, pick up 10 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4.

    Work stockinette st on needles I and IV and ribbing on needles II and III and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 40 sts remain (10 sts on each needle).

    When the sole measures 20 cm or when the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.  


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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