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Novita Isoveli: Taiga cardigan

As low as €3.30

Taiga, knitted from Novita Isoveli, is a long and relaxed unisex cardigan suitable for many outfits.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 26
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Isoveli: Taiga cardigan
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita Isoveli-044 Graphite
€5.90
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.5 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-5.0 mm
€3.30
Novita circular needles 80 cm-5.0 mm
€3.80

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Novita Isoveli: Taiga cardigan
Novita Isoveli: Taiga cardigan

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012126
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Isoveli

    (044) Graphite 850(900)950(1000)1050(1100) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4½ mm (UK 7 / US 7) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed; a second 4½ mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the border; 4½ mm and 5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves if you don't use the Magic Loop technique



    Designer
    Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)

    Details

    Body

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 151(163)175(187)203(219) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work until the ribbing measures approx. 10 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st back and forth. On the first row place 2 markers: work 36(39)42(45)49(53) sts,place right side marker, work 79(85)91(97)105(113) sts, place left side marker, work to end. 36(39)42(45)49(53) sts in the fronts and 79(85)91(97)105(113) sts in the back.

    When the piece measures 73(74)75(76)79(81) cm, separate the fronts and back.

    Top right front

    With the 36(39)42(45)49(53) right front sts begin neckline decreases: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to right side marker. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Repeat the decrease every 2,5(2,5)2(2,5)2(2) cm 8(8)9(9)10(10) more times.

    Note: When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, on every other row bind off at the left end: 3x4 sts and 3x5 sts (6x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 2x6 sts (1x5 sts and 5x6 sts) 4x6 sts and 2x7 sts (6x7 sts).

    Top back

    Work as established with the 79(85)91(97)105(113) back sts.

    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends: 3x4 sts and 3x5 sts (6x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 2x6 sts (1x5 sts and 5x6 sts) 4x6 sts and 2x7 sts (6x7 sts). Leave the remaining 25(25)27(27)29(29) sts on hold for the neckline.

    Top left front

    Mirror the right front but work the neckline decreases by k2tog.

    Border

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Using the smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit sts for the border. Start at the bottom corner of the right front piece and pick up 13 sts per 10 cm. Knit the 25(25)27(27)29(29) back sts and at the same time decrease 0(0)2(2)0(0) sts. Pick up 13 sts per 10 cm from the left front piece.

    Work garter st back and forth until the border measures 6 cm. Bind off loosely.

    Sleeves

    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles. Using the larger needles and with RS facing, pick up sts from the armhole. Start at the bottom edge and pick up 28(30)31(33)33(34) sts from one end and 28(30)31(33)33(34) sts from the other = 56(60)62(66)66(68) sts. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 3 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases every 8(7)7(5)6(5) cm 4(5)5(7)6(7) more times = 46(48)50(50)52(52) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(40)41(41) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm, bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 104(112)120(128)140(152) cm / 41(44)47¼(50½)55(59¾) in

    length 99(101)103(105)108(111) cm / 39(39¾)40½(41¼)42½(43¾) in

    inner sleeve length 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm / 18(18½)19(19)19¼(19¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): Row 1: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Row 2: k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Keep repeating rows 1-2. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Body

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 151(163)175(187)203(219) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work until the ribbing measures approx. 10 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st back and forth. On the first row place 2 markers: work 36(39)42(45)49(53) sts,place right side marker, work 79(85)91(97)105(113) sts, place left side marker, work to end. 36(39)42(45)49(53) sts in the fronts and 79(85)91(97)105(113) sts in the back.

    When the piece measures 73(74)75(76)79(81) cm, separate the fronts and back.

    Top right front

    With the 36(39)42(45)49(53) right front sts begin neckline decreases: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to right side marker. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Repeat the decrease every 2,5(2,5)2(2,5)2(2) cm 8(8)9(9)10(10) more times.

    Note: When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, on every other row bind off at the left end: 3x4 sts and 3x5 sts (6x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 2x6 sts (1x5 sts and 5x6 sts) 4x6 sts and 2x7 sts (6x7 sts).

    Top back

    Work as established with the 79(85)91(97)105(113) back sts.

    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends: 3x4 sts and 3x5 sts (6x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 2x6 sts (1x5 sts and 5x6 sts) 4x6 sts and 2x7 sts (6x7 sts). Leave the remaining 25(25)27(27)29(29) sts on hold for the neckline.

    Top left front

    Mirror the right front but work the neckline decreases by k2tog.

    Border

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Using the smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit sts for the border. Start at the bottom corner of the right front piece and pick up 13 sts per 10 cm. Knit the 25(25)27(27)29(29) back sts and at the same time decrease 0(0)2(2)0(0) sts. Pick up 13 sts per 10 cm from the left front piece.

    Work garter st back and forth until the border measures 6 cm. Bind off loosely.

    Sleeves

    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles. Using the larger needles and with RS facing, pick up sts from the armhole. Start at the bottom edge and pick up 28(30)31(33)33(34) sts from one end and 28(30)31(33)33(34) sts from the other = 56(60)62(66)66(68) sts. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 3 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases every 8(7)7(5)6(5) cm 4(5)5(7)6(7) more times = 46(48)50(50)52(52) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(40)41(41) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm, bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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