Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Isoveli: Syli sweater
As low as €6.96
The Syli sweater is knitted seamlessly top-down using the Novita Isoveli yarn. It features a beautiful textured pattern at the raglan seams and along the sides and sleeves.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
2
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N03202
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Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Isoveli (043) Stone 500(550)600(650)700(750) gNeedles and other supplies
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in and 80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique) Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) and 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10)Designer
Sari NordlundNote The sweater is knitted seamlessly in the round from neckline to hem.
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle cast on 72(72)76(76)80(80) sts, place marker for beginning of round and begin ribbing in the round with p1.
When the collar measures 10 cm, switch to the larger needles and on the next round place raglan markers as follows: work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k1 (right sleeve), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k17(17)19(19)21(21) (front), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k1 (left sleeve), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k17(17)19(19)21(21) (back), place marker. From now on work the rib sts following the textured pattern. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
On the next round begin raglan increases:
Round 1 (increase round): *knit to marker, slip marker, make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), kfb (= knit front and back), slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker*, repeat *–* once more. 8 sts increased, 80(80)84(84)88(88) sts on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 3 sts in each sleeve, 19(19)21(21)23(23) sts in front and back.
Round 2: *starting with p1 work ribbing to marker, slip marker, work stockinette st to marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times.
Round 3 (increase round): *knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, kfb, k1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker*, repeat *–* once more. 8 sts increased, 88(88)92(92)96(96) sts on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 5 sts in each sleeve, 21(21)23(23)25(25) sts in front and back.
Keep working the raglan increases on both sleeves as follows: 9(12)15(16)20(20) more times on every other round, 4(3)2(2)0(0) times every 4th round and 0(0)0(0)0(2) times on every round. At the same time increase in the front and back pieces as follows: 15(18)18(17)16(15) times every other round, 1(0)0(0)0(0) times every 4th round, and 0(0)2(6)8(12) times on every round. At stockinette st sections increase as follows: kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1. Do not increase at the textured raglan section; continue as established.
When you have completed the increases work 1 round even. 204(220)240(256)272(292) sts now on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 31(35)39(41)45(49) sts in each sleeve, 53(57)63(69)73(79) sts front and back.
On the next round separate the sleeves: k5, leave 39(43)47(49)53(57) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 5 sts for an armhole, knit the remaining 5 raglan sts, slip marker, knit the front sts, slip marker, k5, leave 39(43)47(49)53(57) sts on hold, cast on 5 sts for the other armhole, knit the remaining 5 raglan sts, slip marker, knit the back sts. 136(144)156(168)176(188) sts on the needles: 53(57)63(69)73(79) sts front and back, 15 sts at the textured sections between the markers.
Begin short rows:
Row 1 (RS): starting with p1 work 6 sts in ribbing, turn work and yarn over.
Row 2 (WS): slip 1 and tighten the yarn so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, starting with k1 work 6 sts in ribbing, turn and yarn over.
Row 3 (RS): double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, p1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 4 (WS): double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, purl the legs of the double st together, k1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 5 (RS): double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, purl the legs of the double st together, k1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 6 (WS): double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, p1, turn work and yarn over.
Repeat rows 3–6 once more.
On the next row: double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker.
Work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, work ribbing to marker, slip marker, knit the front sts, slip marker, work ribbing to marker and knit together the legs of the last double st, slip marker, knit the back sts.
Now keep working the textured pattern between the markers and stockinette st in the front and back.
When the front measures 29(30)31(32)34(35) cm from the armhole (ie. the shortest length from underarm to hem), switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm with all sts. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Place the 39(43)47(49)53(57) sts onto the larger needles and pick up 5 sts from the armhole cast-on and 1 st on both sides from between the cast-on edge and the sleeve sts = 46(50)54(56)60(64) sts. Distribute the sts evenly so that the beginning of round is between the stockinette st and textured sections.
Keep working 15 sts following the established textured pattern and the other 31(35)39(41)45(49) sts in stockinette st. When the sleeve measures 4(3)4(3)3(2) cm, decrease 1 st at both edges of the stockinette st section: at the beginning, skp; at the end, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 5(4)3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 6(8)9(10)11(13) more times = 32(32)34(34)36(36) sts.
When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(41)41(42) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 92(100)108(116)124(132) cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(45¾)48¾(52) in middle front length 54(56)58(60)62(64) cm / 21¼(22)22¾(23½)24½(25¼) in back approx. 3 cm / 1¼ in longer inner sleeve length 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm / 17¾(18)18½(19)19(19¼) inStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Textured pattern in the round: Round 1: knit all sts. Round 2: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*. Keep repeating rounds 1–2. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Gauge 14 sts and 21 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 inNote The sweater is knitted seamlessly in the round from neckline to hem.
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle cast on 72(72)76(76)80(80) sts, place marker for beginning of round and begin ribbing in the round with p1.
When the collar measures 10 cm, switch to the larger needles and on the next round place raglan markers as follows: work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k1 (right sleeve), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k17(17)19(19)21(21) (front), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k1 (left sleeve), place marker, work 9 sts in ribbing, place marker, k17(17)19(19)21(21) (back), place marker. From now on work the rib sts following the textured pattern. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
On the next round begin raglan increases:
Round 1 (increase round): *knit to marker, slip marker, make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), kfb (= knit front and back), slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker*, repeat *–* once more. 8 sts increased, 80(80)84(84)88(88) sts on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 3 sts in each sleeve, 19(19)21(21)23(23) sts in front and back.
Round 2: *starting with p1 work ribbing to marker, slip marker, work stockinette st to marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times.
Round 3 (increase round): *knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, kfb, k1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slip marker*, repeat *–* once more. 8 sts increased, 88(88)92(92)96(96) sts on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 5 sts in each sleeve, 21(21)23(23)25(25) sts in front and back.
Keep working the raglan increases on both sleeves as follows: 9(12)15(16)20(20) more times on every other round, 4(3)2(2)0(0) times every 4th round and 0(0)0(0)0(2) times on every round. At the same time increase in the front and back pieces as follows: 15(18)18(17)16(15) times every other round, 1(0)0(0)0(0) times every 4th round, and 0(0)2(6)8(12) times on every round. At stockinette st sections increase as follows: kfb, knit to last 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1. Do not increase at the textured raglan section; continue as established.
When you have completed the increases work 1 round even. 204(220)240(256)272(292) sts now on the needles: 9 sts between the pieces, 31(35)39(41)45(49) sts in each sleeve, 53(57)63(69)73(79) sts front and back.
On the next round separate the sleeves: k5, leave 39(43)47(49)53(57) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 5 sts for an armhole, knit the remaining 5 raglan sts, slip marker, knit the front sts, slip marker, k5, leave 39(43)47(49)53(57) sts on hold, cast on 5 sts for the other armhole, knit the remaining 5 raglan sts, slip marker, knit the back sts. 136(144)156(168)176(188) sts on the needles: 53(57)63(69)73(79) sts front and back, 15 sts at the textured sections between the markers.
Begin short rows:
Row 1 (RS): starting with p1 work 6 sts in ribbing, turn work and yarn over.
Row 2 (WS): slip 1 and tighten the yarn so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, starting with k1 work 6 sts in ribbing, turn and yarn over.
Row 3 (RS): double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, p1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 4 (WS): double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, purl the legs of the double st together, k1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 5 (RS): double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, purl the legs of the double st together, k1, turn work and yarn over.
Row 6 (WS): double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl the back sts, slip marker, work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, p1, turn work and yarn over.
Repeat rows 3–6 once more.
On the next row: double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit the back sts, slip marker.
Work ribbing to double st, knit the legs of the double st together, work ribbing to marker, slip marker, knit the front sts, slip marker, work ribbing to marker and knit together the legs of the last double st, slip marker, knit the back sts.
Now keep working the textured pattern between the markers and stockinette st in the front and back.
When the front measures 29(30)31(32)34(35) cm from the armhole (ie. the shortest length from underarm to hem), switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm with all sts. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Place the 39(43)47(49)53(57) sts onto the larger needles and pick up 5 sts from the armhole cast-on and 1 st on both sides from between the cast-on edge and the sleeve sts = 46(50)54(56)60(64) sts. Distribute the sts evenly so that the beginning of round is between the stockinette st and textured sections.
Keep working 15 sts following the established textured pattern and the other 31(35)39(41)45(49) sts in stockinette st. When the sleeve measures 4(3)4(3)3(2) cm, decrease 1 st at both edges of the stockinette st section: at the beginning, skp; at the end, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 5(4)3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 6(8)9(10)11(13) more times = 32(32)34(34)36(36) sts.
When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(41)41(42) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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