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Novita Isoveli: Rento knitted hoodie

As low as €3.33

The ample Rento hoodie is an ideal outfit for a brisk walk as well as for a moment of relaxation. The hoodie features a dropped shoulder and slightly baggy sleeves. With the Novita Isoveli yarn, the garment will be ready in no time.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 23
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Isoveli: Rento knitted hoodie
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita Isoveli-043 Stone
€5.95
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-5.0 mm
€3.33
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-6.0 mm
€3.33

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Novita Isoveli: Rento knitted hoodie
Novita Isoveli: Rento knitted hoodie

In stock

€3.33

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N032123
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Isoveli

    (043) Stone 850(900)950(1000)1050(1100) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) and 6–7 mm (UK 2–4 / US 10–10¾) or sizes needed; a 6–7 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the hood



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2, *p1, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 2 more rows.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, then repeat the 3 st pattern 27(29)31(33)35(37) times. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)39(41) cm, at both ends bind off 1x3(3)3(6)6(6) sts for armholes = 77(83)89(89)95(101) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends for the shoulders: 3x6(7)7(7)7(8) sts and 1x10(10)12(12)14(14) sts. Leave the remaining 21(21)23(23)25(25) sts on hold for the hood.

     

    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2, *p1, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 2 more rows.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, then repeat the 3 st pattern 27(29)31(33)35(37) times. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 6(6)6(8)8(8) cm, on the next RS row work 65(68)71(77)80(83) sts. Leave 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at both ends on hold. Turn work and work textured pattern with the middle 47(47)47(53)53(53) sts for the front side of the pocket.

    When the pocket measures 5(5)5(7)7(7) cm, begin decreases at both ends of the pocket: (RS) work 5 sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 7 sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 8 more times = 29(29)29(35)35(35) sts. Work the WS row and leave the sts on hold.

    Place the 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at the right end back onto the needles, pick up 47(47)47(53)53(53) sts from the back of the pocket (WS), work the 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at the left end. With all 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts, work textured pattern.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)39(41) cm, at both ends bind off 1x3(3)3(6)6(6) sts for armholes = 77(83)89(89)95(101) sts.

    When the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm, on a RS row work 25(28)31(31)34(37) sts, k2tog, work 4 sts. Turn work. Leave the 46(49)52(52)55(58) sts on the left on hold and knit the right side first. On every other row decrease 2(2)3(3)4(4)x1 st st at the neckline edge: (RS) work until 6 sts remain at the neckline edge, k2tog, work 4 sts.

    Note: When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends for the shoulders: 3x6(7)7(7)7(8) sts and 1x10(10)12(12)14(14) sts.

    Leave the middle 15(15)15(15)15(15) sts on hold for the hood. Place the 31(34)37(37)40(43) sts on the left back onto the needles and knit the other side in the same manner. At the neckline, decrease by skp.

     

    Sleeves

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    The sleeves are knitted from armhole to cuff (see pattern for direction of knitting). Using the larger needles and with RS facing pick up and knit a total of 58(60)64(66)66(68) sts from both sides of the shoulder (marked red in the pattern).

    Begin the textured pattern on row 1 chart II: (WS) work 1(2)1(2)2(0) st(s) from the left end of the chart, repeat 3 st pattern 18(18)20(20)20(22) times, work 3(4)3(4)4(2) sts from the right end. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the sleeve measures 22(23)24(23)24(24) cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st at both ends: (RS) work 3(4)3(4)4(2) sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5(6)5(6)6(4) sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases after 4 cm and then after 3 cm = 52(54)58(60)60(62) sts.

    Work the WS row. On the next RS row, begin decreases in the middle: Decrease row 1: work the first 17(18)20(21)21(22) sts, k2tog, place marker, work 14 sts, place marker, skp, work to end. Work the WS row.

    Decrease row 2: (RS) work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, work 14 sts, slip marker, skp, work to end.

    Repeat the decreases on every other row 6(6)6(7)7(7) more times = 36(38)42(42)42(44) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(41)42(42) cm from the armhole, work k1 p1 ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Hood

    Place the 9 leftmost sts from the front piece on the circular needle and work them following the textured pattern, pick up and knit 15(15)17(17)16(16) sts from the front neckline, work the 21(21)23(23)25(25) back neckline sts following the textured pattern, pick up and knit 15(15)17(17)16(16) sts from the other end of the front neckline, work the 6 sts from the left end of the neckline following the textured pattern = 66(66)72(72)72(72) sts. Work textured pattern in the round.

    After approx. 4 cm, knit all sts of the last round. Pick up 3 sts before the next round = 69(69)75(75)75(75) sts. Turn work. Now work back and forth. Keep working 4 sts at both ends in garter st.

    Place a marker at the middle st. On the next RS row begin increases at the middle back: work to marker, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k1, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to end. Repeat the increases 5 more times. Work the increased sts following the textured pattern. 81(81)87(87)87(87) sts on the needles.

    When the hood measures 24 cm, begin decreases on both sides of the middle st: (RS) work to last 4 sts before middle st, k2tog, work 5 sts, skp, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every other row 20 more times = 39(39)45(45)45(45) sts. Sew or stitch the hood seam.

     

    Finishing

    Pick up and knit 31 sts from one edge of the pocket (the slanted part) and begin k1 p1 ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern. Knit a border to the other end of pocket in the same manner.

    Stitch the top edge of the pocket to the bodice. Sew the bottom edges of the borders to the bodice.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Steam the garment lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 100(108)116(124)132(140) cm / 39¼(42½)45¾(48¾)52(55) in (the garment is loose-fitting)

    length 56(58)60(62)65(68) cm / 22(22¾)23½(24½)25½(26¾) in

    inner sleeve length 38(39)40(40)41(41) cm / 15(15¼)15¾(15¾)16¼(16¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns P2 k1 ribbing: *p2, k1*, repeat *–* to last 2 sts, p2. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Textured pattern: follow the chart and instructions. K1 p1 ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Gauge 16 sts and 22 rows in textured pattern = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2, *p1, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 2 more rows.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, then repeat the 3 st pattern 27(29)31(33)35(37) times. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)39(41) cm, at both ends bind off 1x3(3)3(6)6(6) sts for armholes = 77(83)89(89)95(101) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends for the shoulders: 3x6(7)7(7)7(8) sts and 1x10(10)12(12)14(14) sts. Leave the remaining 21(21)23(23)25(25) sts on hold for the hood.

     

    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2, *p1, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 2 more rows.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, then repeat the 3 st pattern 27(29)31(33)35(37) times. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 6(6)6(8)8(8) cm, on the next RS row work 65(68)71(77)80(83) sts. Leave 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at both ends on hold. Turn work and work textured pattern with the middle 47(47)47(53)53(53) sts for the front side of the pocket.

    When the pocket measures 5(5)5(7)7(7) cm, begin decreases at both ends of the pocket: (RS) work 5 sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 7 sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 8 more times = 29(29)29(35)35(35) sts. Work the WS row and leave the sts on hold.

    Place the 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at the right end back onto the needles, pick up 47(47)47(53)53(53) sts from the back of the pocket (WS), work the 18(21)24(24)27(30) sts at the left end. With all 83(89)95(101)107(113) sts, work textured pattern.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)39(41) cm, at both ends bind off 1x3(3)3(6)6(6) sts for armholes = 77(83)89(89)95(101) sts.

    When the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm, on a RS row work 25(28)31(31)34(37) sts, k2tog, work 4 sts. Turn work. Leave the 46(49)52(52)55(58) sts on the left on hold and knit the right side first. On every other row decrease 2(2)3(3)4(4)x1 st st at the neckline edge: (RS) work until 6 sts remain at the neckline edge, k2tog, work 4 sts.

    Note: When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends for the shoulders: 3x6(7)7(7)7(8) sts and 1x10(10)12(12)14(14) sts.

    Leave the middle 15(15)15(15)15(15) sts on hold for the hood. Place the 31(34)37(37)40(43) sts on the left back onto the needles and knit the other side in the same manner. At the neckline, decrease by skp.

     

    Sleeves

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    The sleeves are knitted from armhole to cuff (see pattern for direction of knitting). Using the larger needles and with RS facing pick up and knit a total of 58(60)64(66)66(68) sts from both sides of the shoulder (marked red in the pattern).

    Begin the textured pattern on row 1 chart II: (WS) work 1(2)1(2)2(0) st(s) from the left end of the chart, repeat 3 st pattern 18(18)20(20)20(22) times, work 3(4)3(4)4(2) sts from the right end. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of the chart.

    When the sleeve measures 22(23)24(23)24(24) cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st at both ends: (RS) work 3(4)3(4)4(2) sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5(6)5(6)6(4) sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases after 4 cm and then after 3 cm = 52(54)58(60)60(62) sts.

    Work the WS row. On the next RS row, begin decreases in the middle: Decrease row 1: work the first 17(18)20(21)21(22) sts, k2tog, place marker, work 14 sts, place marker, skp, work to end. Work the WS row.

    Decrease row 2: (RS) work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, work 14 sts, slip marker, skp, work to end.

    Repeat the decreases on every other row 6(6)6(7)7(7) more times = 36(38)42(42)42(44) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(41)42(42) cm from the armhole, work k1 p1 ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Hood

    Place the 9 leftmost sts from the front piece on the circular needle and work them following the textured pattern, pick up and knit 15(15)17(17)16(16) sts from the front neckline, work the 21(21)23(23)25(25) back neckline sts following the textured pattern, pick up and knit 15(15)17(17)16(16) sts from the other end of the front neckline, work the 6 sts from the left end of the neckline following the textured pattern = 66(66)72(72)72(72) sts. Work textured pattern in the round.

    After approx. 4 cm, knit all sts of the last round. Pick up 3 sts before the next round = 69(69)75(75)75(75) sts. Turn work. Now work back and forth. Keep working 4 sts at both ends in garter st.

    Place a marker at the middle st. On the next RS row begin increases at the middle back: work to marker, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k1, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to end. Repeat the increases 5 more times. Work the increased sts following the textured pattern. 81(81)87(87)87(87) sts on the needles.

    When the hood measures 24 cm, begin decreases on both sides of the middle st: (RS) work to last 4 sts before middle st, k2tog, work 5 sts, skp, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every other row 20 more times = 39(39)45(45)45(45) sts. Sew or stitch the hood seam.

     

    Finishing

    Pick up and knit 31 sts from one edge of the pocket (the slanted part) and begin k1 p1 ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern. Knit a border to the other end of pocket in the same manner.

    Stitch the top edge of the pocket to the bodice. Sew the bottom edges of the borders to the bodice.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Steam the garment lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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