Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Isoveli: Halsa neck warmer
As low as €5.95
Wear the Halsa neck warmer under your coat and you’ll be safe from the wind. Almost reaching the waist, the neck warmer is worked in fisherman’s rib using Novita Isoveli.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
2
Adventurous beginner
Availability: In stock
N04212
Size
S(M)LYarn demand
Novita Isoveli
(043) Stone 300(300)400 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles Novita 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10) or size needed; a 4.5 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the collar
Designer
Reetta PellikkaFront
Using the 6 mm needles, cast on 33(37)43 sts and purl the WS row. Turn work.
Begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b (knit 1 below = knit into the st on the row below, slipping the st on the left-hand needle)*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
Work until the piece measures 27(29)31 cm. Next RS row: work 13(15)17 sts, turn work. Leave the sts on the left on hold and knit the right side of the neckline first.
WS: k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
RS: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
On the next row, begin neckline decreases:
Row 1: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog (purl 2 sts together), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, k2. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before the neckline. K2, k1b, k1. Turn work.
Row 3: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before the neckline. K3, k1b, k1. Turn work.
Row 5: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, k2. Turn work.
Row 6: (RS) work like row 2. Turn work.
Row 7: (WS) work like row 3. Turn work.
Row 8: (RS) work like row 4. Turn work.
Row 9: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 10: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Work rows 9–10 and then row 9 once more. Break the yarn and leave the remaining 9(11)13 shoulder sts on hold for the back.
Place the 13(15)17 sts at the left end on the needles [7(7)9 sts remain in the centre] and work the left side of the neckline:
RS: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
WS: k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
On the next row, begin neckline decreases:
Row 1: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise without knitting the st below, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before neckline. P1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 3: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1b, pass the slipped st over), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 4: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before neckline. K1b, p1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 5: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 6: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before neckline. P1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 7: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1b, pass the slipped st over), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 8: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before neckline. K1b, p1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 9: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 10: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Work rows 9–10. Break the yarn and leave the remaining 9(11)13 shoulder sts on hold for the back.
.
Back
Place the 9(11)13 sts of the left shoulder and 9(11)13 sts of the right shoulder on the same needle.
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains on first shoulder, k1. Cast on 15(15)17 sts for back neckline. Other shoulder: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work. 33(37)43 sts on the needles.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains before the neckline cast-on, k1. Purl the 15(15)17 neckline sts. K2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 3: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 3–4 until the back piece matches the length of the front.
Bind off: (RS) k2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *K1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Collar
Place the 7(7)9 neckline sts onto the circular needle and work as follows: (RS) *k1b, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1b. Pick up and knit 69(73)75 additional sts from the neckline. 76(80)84 sts on the needles. Work ribbing for 15 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Work 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains. Break yarn and pull it through the st.
Finishing
Weave in the ends. Steam the neck warmer lightly.
Finished dimensions
width 33(37)43 cm / 13(14½)17 in
height 32(35)38 cm / 12½(13¾)15 in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Fisherman’s rib: Follow the instructions and knit all sts on both RS and WS rows, alternating k1 and k1b stitches as instructed. The first and last st of each row is a knit st. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Front
Using the 6 mm needles, cast on 33(37)43 sts and purl the WS row. Turn work.
Begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b (knit 1 below = knit into the st on the row below, slipping the st on the left-hand needle)*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
Work until the piece measures 27(29)31 cm. Next RS row: work 13(15)17 sts, turn work. Leave the sts on the left on hold and knit the right side of the neckline first.
WS: k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
RS: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
On the next row, begin neckline decreases:
Row 1: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog (purl 2 sts together), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, k2. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before the neckline. K2, k1b, k1. Turn work.
Row 3: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before the neckline. K3, k1b, k1. Turn work.
Row 5: (WS) k2, k1b, p2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, k2. Turn work.
Row 6: (RS) work like row 2. Turn work.
Row 7: (WS) work like row 3. Turn work.
Row 8: (RS) work like row 4. Turn work.
Row 9: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 10: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Work rows 9–10 and then row 9 once more. Break the yarn and leave the remaining 9(11)13 shoulder sts on hold for the back.
Place the 13(15)17 sts at the left end on the needles [7(7)9 sts remain in the centre] and work the left side of the neckline:
RS: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
WS: k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
On the next row, begin neckline decreases:
Row 1: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise without knitting the st below, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before neckline. P1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 3: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1b, pass the slipped st over), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 4: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before neckline. K1b, p1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 5: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 6: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain before neckline. P1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 7: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, skp (= slip next st knitwise, k1b, pass the slipped st over), *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 8: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain before neckline. K1b, p1, k1b, k2. Turn work.
Row 9: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 10: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Work rows 9–10. Break the yarn and leave the remaining 9(11)13 shoulder sts on hold for the back.
.
Back
Place the 9(11)13 sts of the left shoulder and 9(11)13 sts of the right shoulder on the same needle.
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains on first shoulder, k1. Cast on 15(15)17 sts for back neckline. Other shoulder: *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work. 33(37)43 sts on the needles.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains before the neckline cast-on, k1. Purl the 15(15)17 neckline sts. K2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 3: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 3–4 until the back piece matches the length of the front.
Bind off: (RS) k2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *K1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Collar
Place the 7(7)9 neckline sts onto the circular needle and work as follows: (RS) *k1b, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1b. Pick up and knit 69(73)75 additional sts from the neckline. 76(80)84 sts on the needles. Work ribbing for 15 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Work 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains. Break yarn and pull it through the st.
Finishing
Weave in the ends. Steam the neck warmer lightly.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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