Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
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Novita Icelandic Wool
(045) Clay 450(500)550(600)650(700) g
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed; stitch markers
Using the smaller circular needle (40 cm), cast on 84(88)92(100)104(108) sts and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 19 rounds.
Place markers at the edges of the pieces: 1st marker 12(13)14(15)16(17) sts from the beginning of round, 2nd marker 18(18)18(20)20(20) from previous marker, 3rd marker 24(26)28(30)32(34) sts from previous marker, 4th marker 18(18)18(20)20(20) sts from previous marker, 5th marker 12(13)14(15)16(17) sts from previous marker (beginning of round). The beginning of round is at the midpoint of the back piece.
Next round: *knit purl sts and purl knit sts until 1 st remains before marker, yarn over, k1, slip marker, k1, yarn over*, repeat *–* 4 times in total. Knit purl sts and purl knit sts to end of round. 8 sts increased.
Switch to the larger needles and work half brioche in the round:
Round 1: *purl purl sts, slip knit sts purlwise with yarn over until you reach the yo before the next marker. Knit the yo through the back loop, k1, slip marker, k1, knit the yo through the back loop.* Repeat *–* 4 times in total. Purl purl sts and slip knit sts purlwise with yo to end of round.
Round 2: *purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts together with their yarn overs. Work the increased sts following the half brioche pattern. When 1 st remains before marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo.* Repeat *–* 4 times in total. Purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts together with their yarn overs to end of round. 8 sts increased.
100(104)108(116)120(124) sts on the needles: 28(30)32(34)36(38) sts in the front and back, 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts in the sleeves.
Repeat rounds 1–2 14(16)18(20)22(24) more times, then work round 1 once more.
212(232)252(276)296(316) sts on the needles: 56(62)68(74)80(86) sts in the front and back, 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts in the sleeves.
Work half brioche in the round. On the next round, separate the sleeves: work 28(31)34(37)40(43) back sts, leave next 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts on hold for sleeve, cast on 4(4)6(6)8(8) sts for armhole, work 56(62)68(74)80(86) front sts, leave next 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts on hold for sleeve, cast on 4(4)6(6)8(8) sts for armhole, work 28(31)34(37)40(43) back sts.
Body
With the 120(132)148(160)176(188) back and front sts, work half brioche in the round. The beginning of round is still at the midpoint of the back piece.
When the body measures 38(40)42(44.5)47.5(49.5) cm from the bottom edge of the neck ribbing, switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Work 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Sleeves
Using the short circular needle, pick up and knit 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the left end of the armhole cast-on, place the 50(54)58(64)68(72) sleeve sts on the needles, pick up 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the right end of the cast-on = 54(60)66(72)78(84) sts. Place a marker at the beginning of round.
Work half brioche in the round.
When the sleeve measures approx. 4 cm from the armhole and you have last worked round 1 in the half brioche pattern, at the beginning and end of round, work 2 sts and their yarn overs together as required by the half brioche pattern. 2 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 4 cm 8(8)8(10)10(12) more times. 38(44)50(52)58(60) sts on the needles.
Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when you need to.
When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(40)41(42) cm from the armhole (or length desired before 6 cm cuff), switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.
Weave in the ends. Pin to measurements and steam lightly.
body circumference 92(100)110(122)134(144) cm / 36¼(39¼)43¼(48)52¾(56¾) in
length from shoulder to hem 49(51)53(56)59(61) cm / 19¼(20)20¾(22)23¼(24) in
inner sleeve length 43(44)45(46)47(48) cm / 17(17¼)17¾(18)18½(19) in
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Half brioche in the round: Round 1: *K1, sl1yo (slip 1 purlwise and yarn over)*, repeat *–* to end of round. Round 2: *p1, knit together the yo and the st*
Using the smaller circular needle (40 cm), cast on 84(88)92(100)104(108) sts and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 19 rounds.
Place markers at the edges of the pieces: 1st marker 12(13)14(15)16(17) sts from the beginning of round, 2nd marker 18(18)18(20)20(20) from previous marker, 3rd marker 24(26)28(30)32(34) sts from previous marker, 4th marker 18(18)18(20)20(20) sts from previous marker, 5th marker 12(13)14(15)16(17) sts from previous marker (beginning of round). The beginning of round is at the midpoint of the back piece.
Next round: *knit purl sts and purl knit sts until 1 st remains before marker, yarn over, k1, slip marker, k1, yarn over*, repeat *–* 4 times in total. Knit purl sts and purl knit sts to end of round. 8 sts increased.
Switch to the larger needles and work half brioche in the round:
Round 1: *purl purl sts, slip knit sts purlwise with yarn over until you reach the yo before the next marker. Knit the yo through the back loop, k1, slip marker, k1, knit the yo through the back loop.* Repeat *–* 4 times in total. Purl purl sts and slip knit sts purlwise with yo to end of round.
Round 2: *purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts together with their yarn overs. Work the increased sts following the half brioche pattern. When 1 st remains before marker, yo, k1, slip marker, k1, yo.* Repeat *–* 4 times in total. Purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts together with their yarn overs to end of round. 8 sts increased.
100(104)108(116)120(124) sts on the needles: 28(30)32(34)36(38) sts in the front and back, 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts in the sleeves.
Repeat rounds 1–2 14(16)18(20)22(24) more times, then work round 1 once more.
212(232)252(276)296(316) sts on the needles: 56(62)68(74)80(86) sts in the front and back, 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts in the sleeves.
Work half brioche in the round. On the next round, separate the sleeves: work 28(31)34(37)40(43) back sts, leave next 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts on hold for sleeve, cast on 4(4)6(6)8(8) sts for armhole, work 56(62)68(74)80(86) front sts, leave next 50(54)58(64)68(72) sts on hold for sleeve, cast on 4(4)6(6)8(8) sts for armhole, work 28(31)34(37)40(43) back sts.
Body
With the 120(132)148(160)176(188) back and front sts, work half brioche in the round. The beginning of round is still at the midpoint of the back piece.
When the body measures 38(40)42(44.5)47.5(49.5) cm from the bottom edge of the neck ribbing, switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Work 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Sleeves
Using the short circular needle, pick up and knit 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the left end of the armhole cast-on, place the 50(54)58(64)68(72) sleeve sts on the needles, pick up 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the right end of the cast-on = 54(60)66(72)78(84) sts. Place a marker at the beginning of round.
Work half brioche in the round.
When the sleeve measures approx. 4 cm from the armhole and you have last worked round 1 in the half brioche pattern, at the beginning and end of round, work 2 sts and their yarn overs together as required by the half brioche pattern. 2 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 4 cm 8(8)8(10)10(12) more times. 38(44)50(52)58(60) sts on the needles.
Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when you need to.
When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(40)41(42) cm from the armhole (or length desired before 6 cm cuff), switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.
Weave in the ends. Pin to measurements and steam lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.