Novita Icelandic Wool: Tenna yoke sweater

As low as €5.95

The fresh Tenna sweater features an Icelandic-style colourwork design on the yoke. The sweater is knitted in the round starting from the hem and cuffs and using the soft Novita Icelandic Wool yarn.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
10
Intermediate
Customize Novita Icelandic Wool: Tenna yoke sweater

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    €5.95

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    Availability: In stock

    N042110
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Icelandic Wool

    (010) Off White 400(450)500(550)600(650) g

    (164) Blueberry, (100) Gorge, (638) Webcap, (601) Grain, 50 g each



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) and 4.5–5 mm (UK 7–8 / US 8–9) or sizes needed; 3.5 mm and 4.5–5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves



    Designer
    Reetta Pellikka

    Body

    The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and the Off White yarn, cast on 184(198)212(228)240(260) sts and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle (80 cm) and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, decrease 2(2)0(2)0(2) sts = 182(196)212(226)240(258) sts. Place markers at the beginning of round and midpoint. 91(98)106(113)120(129) sts in the front and back.

    When the piece measures 29(31)32(33)35(37) cm, divide the sts into two groups: bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts for armhole, work to last 4 sts before marker, bind off 8(8)8(8)8(8) sts for armhole, work to last 4 sts before beginning of round marker, bind off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts for armhole. Break the yarn and leave the 83(90)98(105)112(121) front and back sts on hold for the yoke.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Off White, cast on 46(48)50(52)54(56) sts and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Place marker for beginning of round.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, evenly increase 0(0)0(2)4(4) sts = 46(48)50(54)58(60) sts.

    When the piece measures 12(13)11(12)12(10) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 3.5(3.5)3(3)3(3) cm 8(8)10(10)10(11) more times = 64(66)72(76)80(84) sts.

    Work until the piece measures 43(44)44(45)45(46) cm. Next round: work to last 4 sts, bind off 4 sts and the first 4 sts of the next round = 56(58)64(68)72(76) sts. Break yarn.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner, but don’t break yarn.

     

    Yoke

    Place all sts onto the same larger circular needle (80 cm): work the 56(58)64(68)72(76) sts of the second sleeve, 83(90)98(105)112(121) back sts, 56(58)64(68)72(76) sleeve sts and 83(90)98(105)112(121) front sts and increase 1(1)0(0)0(0) st = 279(297)324(346)368(394) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round for 0(0)0(2)2(2) rounds. On the second round, evenly decrease 0(0)0(4)8(7) sts = 279(297)324(342)360(387) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 31(33)36(38)40(43) times. Work rows 2–48 of the chart.

    1 st decreased in each pattern repeat on rows 1, 18, 30, 36, 45 and 47. 93(99)108(114)120(129) sts now on the needles.

    Switch to the smaller circular needle (40 cm) and work ribbing in the round. Sizes XS and S: on the first round, evenly increase 7(5) sts. Sizes XL and XXL: on the first round, evenly decrease 6(11) sts = 100(104)108(114)114(118) sts. Work ribbing for 7 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

     

    Finishing

    Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside if you wish to. Sew the underarm seams.

    Pin to measurements and steam carefully to bring out the pattern.

    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 96(104)112(120)126(136) cm / 37¾(41)44(47¼)49½(53½) in

    length from bottom edge of neck ribbing to hem 55(57)58(60)62(64) cm / 21¾(22½)22¾(23½)24½(25¼) in

    inner sleeve length 43(44)44(45)45(46) cm / 17(17¼)17¼(17¾)17¾(18) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Body

    The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and the Off White yarn, cast on 184(198)212(228)240(260) sts and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle (80 cm) and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, decrease 2(2)0(2)0(2) sts = 182(196)212(226)240(258) sts. Place markers at the beginning of round and midpoint. 91(98)106(113)120(129) sts in the front and back.

    When the piece measures 29(31)32(33)35(37) cm, divide the sts into two groups: bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts for armhole, work to last 4 sts before marker, bind off 8(8)8(8)8(8) sts for armhole, work to last 4 sts before beginning of round marker, bind off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts for armhole. Break the yarn and leave the 83(90)98(105)112(121) front and back sts on hold for the yoke.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Off White, cast on 46(48)50(52)54(56) sts and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Place marker for beginning of round.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, evenly increase 0(0)0(2)4(4) sts = 46(48)50(54)58(60) sts.

    When the piece measures 12(13)11(12)12(10) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 3.5(3.5)3(3)3(3) cm 8(8)10(10)10(11) more times = 64(66)72(76)80(84) sts.

    Work until the piece measures 43(44)44(45)45(46) cm. Next round: work to last 4 sts, bind off 4 sts and the first 4 sts of the next round = 56(58)64(68)72(76) sts. Break yarn.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner, but don’t break yarn.

     

    Yoke

    Place all sts onto the same larger circular needle (80 cm): work the 56(58)64(68)72(76) sts of the second sleeve, 83(90)98(105)112(121) back sts, 56(58)64(68)72(76) sleeve sts and 83(90)98(105)112(121) front sts and increase 1(1)0(0)0(0) st = 279(297)324(346)368(394) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round for 0(0)0(2)2(2) rounds. On the second round, evenly decrease 0(0)0(4)8(7) sts = 279(297)324(342)360(387) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 31(33)36(38)40(43) times. Work rows 2–48 of the chart.

    1 st decreased in each pattern repeat on rows 1, 18, 30, 36, 45 and 47. 93(99)108(114)120(129) sts now on the needles.

    Switch to the smaller circular needle (40 cm) and work ribbing in the round. Sizes XS and S: on the first round, evenly increase 7(5) sts. Sizes XL and XXL: on the first round, evenly decrease 6(11) sts = 100(104)108(114)114(118) sts. Work ribbing for 7 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

     

    Finishing

    Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside if you wish to. Sew the underarm seams.

    Pin to measurements and steam carefully to bring out the pattern.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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