Novita Icelandic Wool: Lumikide (Snow Crystal) mittens

As low as €5.54

The Lumikide adult mittens feature a traditional three-coloured colourwork pattern and a simple afterthought thumb. The cuffs are adorned by a Latvian braid. Knitted from Novita Icelandic Wool.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
27
Intermediate
Customize Novita Icelandic Wool: Lumikide (Snow Crystal) mittens

* Required Fields

Your Customization

    €5.54

    - +

    Availability: In stock

    N042127
    Size
    nainen(mies)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Icelandic Wool

    (010) Off White <50(100) g

    (164) Blueberry 50(<100) g

    some (638) Webcap



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) or sizes needed



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Right mitten

    Using the larger needles and Blueberry, cast on 46(50) sts and distribute them onto four needles: 11, 12, 12 and 11 sts (12, 13, 13 and 12 sts). The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the outer edge of the mitten.

    Using Blueberry and Webcap, knit a Latvian braid in the round as follows:

    Round 1: *k1 with Blueberry, k1 with Webcap*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Round 2: Bring yarns to front and hold there for the rest of the braid. *P1 with Blueberry, bring Webcap under Blueberry (twisting the yarns), p1 with Webcap, bring Blueberry under Webcap (twisting the yarns)*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will become untwisted on the next round.

    Round 3: Hold both yarns in front as before. *P1 with Blueberry, bring Webcap over Blueberry, p1 with Webcap, bring Blueberry over Webcap*, repeat *–*.

    Switch to the smaller needles and begin the colourwork stripe on row 1 of chart I(II). Work the 46(50) st pattern. Work rows 2–29(31) of the chart.

    Row 30(32): work needles I and II, work the first 2 sts of needle III, work 9(10) sts (marked in red) using a different-coloured yarn for the thumbhole. Move the 9(10) sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end following the chart.

    With the 46(50) sts, work the colourwork pattern. Work rows 31–56(33–58) of chart I(II).

    Begin top decreases following the chart on row 57(59). Work rows 58–66(60–69) of the chart.

    There will be long floats at the decreases. Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 4 sts.

    10 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Break yarn and pull it through the sts. Securely weave in.

    Left mitten: mirror right mitten. Work the palm on needles I and II and the star pattern on needles III and IV. Make the thumbhole on needle II.

     

    Thumb

    Remove the different-coloured yarn. Using the larger needles, pick up sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumbhole as well as additional sts from both ends for 22(24) sts in total. Divide the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round using Off White. On the 1st round, decrease 1 st at the ends = 20(22) sts.

    When you have worked for 5(5.5) cm or when the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle until 8 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in.

     

    Finishing

    Steam the mittens lightly.

    Finished dimensions


    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart and instructions.

    Gauge 24 sts in colourwork with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Right mitten

    Using the larger needles and Blueberry, cast on 46(50) sts and distribute them onto four needles: 11, 12, 12 and 11 sts (12, 13, 13 and 12 sts). The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the outer edge of the mitten.

    Using Blueberry and Webcap, knit a Latvian braid in the round as follows:

    Round 1: *k1 with Blueberry, k1 with Webcap*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Round 2: Bring yarns to front and hold there for the rest of the braid. *P1 with Blueberry, bring Webcap under Blueberry (twisting the yarns), p1 with Webcap, bring Blueberry under Webcap (twisting the yarns)*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will become untwisted on the next round.

    Round 3: Hold both yarns in front as before. *P1 with Blueberry, bring Webcap over Blueberry, p1 with Webcap, bring Blueberry over Webcap*, repeat *–*.

    Switch to the smaller needles and begin the colourwork stripe on row 1 of chart I(II). Work the 46(50) st pattern. Work rows 2–29(31) of the chart.

    Row 30(32): work needles I and II, work the first 2 sts of needle III, work 9(10) sts (marked in red) using a different-coloured yarn for the thumbhole. Move the 9(10) sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end following the chart.

    With the 46(50) sts, work the colourwork pattern. Work rows 31–56(33–58) of chart I(II).

    Begin top decreases following the chart on row 57(59). Work rows 58–66(60–69) of the chart.

    There will be long floats at the decreases. Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 4 sts.

    10 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Break yarn and pull it through the sts. Securely weave in.

    Left mitten: mirror right mitten. Work the palm on needles I and II and the star pattern on needles III and IV. Make the thumbhole on needle II.

     

    Thumb

    Remove the different-coloured yarn. Using the larger needles, pick up sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumbhole as well as additional sts from both ends for 22(24) sts in total. Divide the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round using Off White. On the 1st round, decrease 1 st at the ends = 20(22) sts.

    When you have worked for 5(5.5) cm or when the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle until 8 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in.

     

    Finishing

    Steam the mittens lightly.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Write Your Own Review
    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account