Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Novita Icelandic Wool
(638) Webcap 400(400)450(500)550(600)700(750) g
(384) Pine 150(150)150(200)200(200)200(250) g
(010) Off White 100(150)150(150)150(150)200(200) g
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) or sizes needed
Yoke
Using Webcap and the smaller circular needle (40 cm), cast on 98(100)100(100)104(104)106(110) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Place marker for beginning of round.
Switch to the larger needles and knit 1 round. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases on the next round: k2(4)4(4)8(8)4(8), *increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k16(8)6(4)4(3)3(3). Repeat *–* to end of round. 6(12)16(24)24(32)34(34) sts increased, 104(112)116(124)128(136)140(144) sts now on the needles.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 4 st pattern 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times.
Work row 4 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 3 sts, increase, work 1 st*, repeat *–* to end of round. 130(140)145(155)160(170)175(180) sts on the needles.
Work rows 5–9 of the chart. The 5 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 10 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 1 st, increase, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 156(168)174(186)192(204)210(216) sts on the needles.
Work rows 11–12 of the chart. The 6 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 13 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)34(35) sts following the chart: *work 5 sts, increase, work 1 st*, repeat *–* to end of round. 182(196)203(217)224(238)245(252) sts on the needles.
Work row 14 of the chart. The 7 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times.
Work row 15 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 2 sts, increase, work 5 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 208(224)232(248)256(272)280(288) sts on the needles.
Work rows 16–25 of the chart. The 8 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 26 and increase 52(56)58(62)64(68)70(72) sts following the chart: *increase, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 260(280)290(310)320(340)350(360) sts on the needles.
Work rows 27–50 of the chart. The 10 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Using Webcap, work stockinette st in the round.
Work until the yoke measures 22(22)23(24)25(25)26(27) cm (including the ribbing). Next round: work 75(81)85(91)96(103)107(113) back sts, leave 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 9(9)13(13)16(17)23(27) sts for armhole, work 75(81)85(91)96(103)107(113) front sts, leave 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 9(9)13(13)16(17)23(27) sts for armhole.
Body
With the 168(180)196(208)224(240)260(280) sts, work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 32(34)35(36)37(39)41(43) cm from the armhole (or 11 cm less than desired length).
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Repeat the 4 st pattern 42(45)49(52)56(60)65(70) times. Work rows 2–14 of the chart.
Use Pine for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round, then switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Place the 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sts on the larger double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 7(7)10(10)14(15)16(21) additional sts from the armhole cast-on as well as 1 st from both sides to avoid gaps = 64(68)72(76)80(84)86(90) sts. Place marker for beginning of round at the midpoint of the picked-up sts.
Using Webcap, work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)2(2)1(2)1(2) cm from the armhole, begin decreases on both sides of the marker: at the end of round, k2tog through back loop; at the beginning of the next round, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 2.5(2.5)2(2)2(2)1.5(2)1.5 cm. Work the decreases 12(14)16(16)18(20)19(21) times in total. 40(40)40(44)44(44)48(48) sts on the needles.
When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(39)40(41)41(42) cm from the armhole (or 11 cm less than desired length), begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Repeat the 4 st pattern 10(10)10(11)11(11)12(12) times. Work rows 2–14 of the chart.
Use Pine for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round, then switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Finishing
Wet block to measurements.
body circumference 92(100)108(116)124(132)144(156) cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(45¾)48¾(52)56¾(61½) in
middle front/back length 65(67)69(71)73(75)78(81) cm / 25½(26½)27¼(28)28¾(29½)30¾(32) in
inner sleeve length 48(49)50(50)51(52)52(53) cm / 19(19¼)19¾(19¾)20(20½)20½(20¾) in
Choose your size based on body circumference (i.e. chest circumference). The measurements given are those of the garment. Use your preferred amount of positive ease. The pictured model, Elsa, has a chest circumference of 127 cm and is wearing a sweater with a 132 cm circumference.
You can adjust the length of the sleeves and the body as you go.
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Yoke
Using Webcap and the smaller circular needle (40 cm), cast on 98(100)100(100)104(104)106(110) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Place marker for beginning of round.
Switch to the larger needles and knit 1 round. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases on the next round: k2(4)4(4)8(8)4(8), *increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k16(8)6(4)4(3)3(3). Repeat *–* to end of round. 6(12)16(24)24(32)34(34) sts increased, 104(112)116(124)128(136)140(144) sts now on the needles.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 4 st pattern 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times.
Work row 4 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 3 sts, increase, work 1 st*, repeat *–* to end of round. 130(140)145(155)160(170)175(180) sts on the needles.
Work rows 5–9 of the chart. The 5 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 10 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 1 st, increase, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 156(168)174(186)192(204)210(216) sts on the needles.
Work rows 11–12 of the chart. The 6 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 13 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)34(35) sts following the chart: *work 5 sts, increase, work 1 st*, repeat *–* to end of round. 182(196)203(217)224(238)245(252) sts on the needles.
Work row 14 of the chart. The 7 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times.
Work row 15 and increase 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) sts following the chart: *work 2 sts, increase, work 5 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 208(224)232(248)256(272)280(288) sts on the needles.
Work rows 16–25 of the chart. The 8 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Work row 26 and increase 52(56)58(62)64(68)70(72) sts following the chart: *increase, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. 260(280)290(310)320(340)350(360) sts on the needles.
Work rows 27–50 of the chart. The 10 st pattern is repeated 26(28)29(31)32(34)35(36) times on each round.
Using Webcap, work stockinette st in the round.
Work until the yoke measures 22(22)23(24)25(25)26(27) cm (including the ribbing). Next round: work 75(81)85(91)96(103)107(113) back sts, leave 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 9(9)13(13)16(17)23(27) sts for armhole, work 75(81)85(91)96(103)107(113) front sts, leave 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 9(9)13(13)16(17)23(27) sts for armhole.
Body
With the 168(180)196(208)224(240)260(280) sts, work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 32(34)35(36)37(39)41(43) cm from the armhole (or 11 cm less than desired length).
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Repeat the 4 st pattern 42(45)49(52)56(60)65(70) times. Work rows 2–14 of the chart.
Use Pine for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round, then switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Place the 55(59)60(64)64(67)68(67) sts on the larger double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 7(7)10(10)14(15)16(21) additional sts from the armhole cast-on as well as 1 st from both sides to avoid gaps = 64(68)72(76)80(84)86(90) sts. Place marker for beginning of round at the midpoint of the picked-up sts.
Using Webcap, work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)2(2)1(2)1(2) cm from the armhole, begin decreases on both sides of the marker: at the end of round, k2tog through back loop; at the beginning of the next round, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 2.5(2.5)2(2)2(2)1.5(2)1.5 cm. Work the decreases 12(14)16(16)18(20)19(21) times in total. 40(40)40(44)44(44)48(48) sts on the needles.
When the sleeve measures 37(38)39(39)40(41)41(42) cm from the armhole (or 11 cm less than desired length), begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Repeat the 4 st pattern 10(10)10(11)11(11)12(12) times. Work rows 2–14 of the chart.
Use Pine for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round, then switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Finishing
Wet block to measurements.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.