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Novita Hygge Wool: Tofte sweater

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Knitted using Novita Hygge Wool yarn, the ample Tofte sweater is an ideal choice for colder weather. With the chunky yarn and the rhythmic stitch pattern, the sweater will be ready in no time. The sweater is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 1
Skill level Adventurous beginner
Novita Hygge Wool: Tofte sweater

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Novita Hygge Wool: Tofte sweater
Novita Hygge Wool: Tofte sweater

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€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N04211
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Hygge Wool

    (380) Woods 700(800)900(1000)1100(1200) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 7 mm (UK 2 / US 10¾) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15) or sizes needed; 7 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline; 7 mm and 10 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves



    Designer
    Reetta Pellikka

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle, cast on 84(92)100(108)116(124) sts. Place a marker at the beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 8 rounds.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and begin working the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart:

    Row 1: knit all sts.

    Row 2: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *–* to end of round.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2.

    When the piece measures approx. 30(31)32(33)34(35) cm and you have last worked row 2 of the chart, place another marker at the midpoint of the round. 42(46)50(54)58(62) sts in the front and back.

     

    Top front

    With the front sts, work textured pattern flat and work the armhole decreases:

    Row 1: (RS) bind off the first 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts], knit to side marker, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 37(41)45(49)51(55) sts in the front and back.

    On every 2 rows bind off at both ends as established: 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts and 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts. 25(29)33(33)35(39) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 12(13)14(15)16(17) cm.

    Next RS row: work the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the right shoulder, bind off next 9(9)9(11)11(13) sts for neckline [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 9(9)9(11)11(13) sts], work to end of row.

    Work the left side of the neckline first. With the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the left end, work textured pattern.

    After completing 1 row, decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work 1(1)1(2)1(2) st(s) at the neckline, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. 1 st decreased, 7(9)11(10)11(12) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern. At the decrease, work stockinette st (= knit on RS, purl on WS).

    Work 3 rows after the previous decrease. Next row: decrease 1 st at the neckline edge as established. 6(8)10(9)10(11) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off the shoulder sts.

     

    Now work the right side of the neckline. With the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the right end, work textured pattern.

    After completing 1 row, decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work until 3(3)3(4)3(4) sts remain at the neckline edge, k2tog, knit 1(1)1(2)1(2). 1 st decreased, 7(9)11(10)11(12) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern. At the decrease, work stockinette st (= knit on RS, purl on WS).

    Work 3 rows after the previous decrease. Next row: decrease 1 st at the neckline edge as established. 6(8)10(9)10(11) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off the shoulder sts.              

                         

     

    Top back

    With the back sts, work textured pattern flat and work the armhole decreases:

    Row 1: (RS) bind off the first 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts], knit to side marker, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 37(41)45(49)51(55) sts in the front.

    On every 2 rows bind off at both ends as established: 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts. 25(29)33(33)35(39) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm. Bind off.

     

    Right sleeve

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 24(24)26(26)28(28) sts and divide them onto four needles. Place a marker at the beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 8 rounds.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and begin working the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart:

    Row 1: knit all sts.

    Row 2: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* to end of round.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2.

    After completing 10 rounds in textured pattern, begin increases. Next round: work to end, m1R (= with the left-hand needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop). Work textured pattern and repeat the increase as established on every other round until there are 44(46)48(50)52(54) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern without increasing until the piece measures 48(49)50(51)52(53) cm (or length of your arm from wrist to underarm).

    Next round: work to last 5(7)7(9)9(11) sts. Bind off 5(7)7(9)9(11) sts and the first 6(6)8(8)10(10) sts of the next round. 33(33)33(33)33(33) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern flat for 2 rows.

    Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], knit to end of row, turn work. 29(29)29(29)29(29) sts on the needles.

    Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 25(25)25(25)25(25) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern for 2 rows.

    On the next 2 rows, bind off 2(2)2(2)2(2) more sts at both ends.

    With the remaining 21(21)21(21)21(21) sts, work textured pattern for 4 more rows, then bind off as established.

     

    Left sleeve

    Work like right sleeve except for the increases. Increase at the beginning of round with m1L (= with the left-hand needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop).

     

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline: Using the short 7 mm circular needle, evenly pick up approx. 44(44)46(46)48(50) sts from the neckline. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2. Work ribbing in the round for 14 rounds, then bind off loosely. Fold the ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.

    Sew the sleeves. The beginning of round should be at the midpoint of the underarm.

    Pin to measurements and steam lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 84(92)100(108)116(124) cm / 33(36¼)39¼(42½)45¾(48¾) in

    length 49(51)53(55)57(59) cm / 19¼(20)20¾(21¾)22½(23¼) in

    inner sleeve length 48(49)50(51)52(53) cm / 19(19¼)19¾(20)20½(20¾) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Textured pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.

    Gauge 10 sts in textured pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle, cast on 84(92)100(108)116(124) sts. Place a marker at the beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 8 rounds.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and begin working the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart:

    Row 1: knit all sts.

    Row 2: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *–* to end of round.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2.

    When the piece measures approx. 30(31)32(33)34(35) cm and you have last worked row 2 of the chart, place another marker at the midpoint of the round. 42(46)50(54)58(62) sts in the front and back.

     

    Top front

    With the front sts, work textured pattern flat and work the armhole decreases:

    Row 1: (RS) bind off the first 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts], knit to side marker, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 37(41)45(49)51(55) sts in the front and back.

    On every 2 rows bind off at both ends as established: 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts and 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts. 25(29)33(33)35(39) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 12(13)14(15)16(17) cm.

    Next RS row: work the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the right shoulder, bind off next 9(9)9(11)11(13) sts for neckline [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 9(9)9(11)11(13) sts], work to end of row.

    Work the left side of the neckline first. With the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the left end, work textured pattern.

    After completing 1 row, decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work 1(1)1(2)1(2) st(s) at the neckline, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. 1 st decreased, 7(9)11(10)11(12) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern. At the decrease, work stockinette st (= knit on RS, purl on WS).

    Work 3 rows after the previous decrease. Next row: decrease 1 st at the neckline edge as established. 6(8)10(9)10(11) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off the shoulder sts.

     

    Now work the right side of the neckline. With the 8(10)12(11)12(13) sts at the right end, work textured pattern.

    After completing 1 row, decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work until 3(3)3(4)3(4) sts remain at the neckline edge, k2tog, knit 1(1)1(2)1(2). 1 st decreased, 7(9)11(10)11(12) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern. At the decrease, work stockinette st (= knit on RS, purl on WS).

    Work 3 rows after the previous decrease. Next row: decrease 1 st at the neckline edge as established. 6(8)10(9)10(11) shoulder sts remaining.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off the shoulder sts.              

                         

     

    Top back

    With the back sts, work textured pattern flat and work the armhole decreases:

    Row 1: (RS) bind off the first 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 3(3)3(3)3(3) sts], knit to side marker, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 37(41)45(49)51(55) sts in the front.

    On every 2 rows bind off at both ends as established: 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts, 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts. 25(29)33(33)35(39) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Work textured pattern flat until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm. Bind off.

     

    Right sleeve

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 24(24)26(26)28(28) sts and divide them onto four needles. Place a marker at the beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–*. Work ribbing for 8 rounds.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and begin working the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart:

    Row 1: knit all sts.

    Row 2: *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* to end of round.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2.

    After completing 10 rounds in textured pattern, begin increases. Next round: work to end, m1R (= with the left-hand needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop). Work textured pattern and repeat the increase as established on every other round until there are 44(46)48(50)52(54) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern without increasing until the piece measures 48(49)50(51)52(53) cm (or length of your arm from wrist to underarm).

    Next round: work to last 5(7)7(9)9(11) sts. Bind off 5(7)7(9)9(11) sts and the first 6(6)8(8)10(10) sts of the next round. 33(33)33(33)33(33) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern flat for 2 rows.

    Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], knit to end of row, turn work. 29(29)29(29)29(29) sts on the needles.

    Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work textured pattern to end of row, turn work. 25(25)25(25)25(25) sts on the needles.

    Work textured pattern for 2 rows.

    On the next 2 rows, bind off 2(2)2(2)2(2) more sts at both ends.

    With the remaining 21(21)21(21)21(21) sts, work textured pattern for 4 more rows, then bind off as established.

     

    Left sleeve

    Work like right sleeve except for the increases. Increase at the beginning of round with m1L (= with the left-hand needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop).

     

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline: Using the short 7 mm circular needle, evenly pick up approx. 44(44)46(46)48(50) sts from the neckline. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2. Work ribbing in the round for 14 rounds, then bind off loosely. Fold the ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.

    Sew the sleeves. The beginning of round should be at the midpoint of the underarm.

    Pin to measurements and steam lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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