Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Hygge Wool: Helge cardigan
As low as €6.96
The chunky Helge cardigan works particularly well with dresses and high-waist trousers. It is knitted in fisherman’s rib using knit stitches only. The garment is knitted in pieces which are then sewn together. From Novita Hygge Wool.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
8
Adventurous beginner
Availability: In stock
N04218
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Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Hygge Wool
(075) Fog 700(800)900(1000)1100(1200) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 7 mm (UK 2 / US 10¾) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15) or sizes needed for gauge
Designer
Reetta PellikkaLeft front
Using the smaller needles, cast on 21(23)25(27)29(31) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b (knit 1 below = knit into the st on the row below, slipping the st on the left-hand needle*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
Work until the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm. On the next WS row, begin neckline decreases:
Decrease row 1: (WS) k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise without knitting the st below, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Keep working the neckline decreases at the left end and begin armhole decreases at the right end:
Decrease row 2: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge. 17(19)21(21)23(25) sts on the needles.
Next row (no decreases): (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Next row (no decreases): (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row.
Decrease row 3: (WS) k2, skp, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 4: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts], *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge. 13(15)17(17)19(21) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Decrease row 5: (WS) k2, skp, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 6: (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 11(13)15(15)17(19) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Repeat decrease rows 5–6 and two rows without decreasing two more times. 4 sts decreased at the front edge, 7(9)11(11)13(15) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off. Bind off as follows: K2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *K1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Right front
Work like left front until the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm.
On the next WS row, begin armhole decreases and neckline decreases:
Decrease row 1: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, k2tog (knit the knit st together with the st on the row below), k2. 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 2: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 17(19)21(21)23(25) sts on the needles.
Next row (no decreases): (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Next row (no decreases): (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row.
Decrease row 3: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, k2tog, k2. 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 4: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 13(15)17(17)19(21) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Decrease row 5: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, work 2 sts together, k2. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 6: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 11(13)15(15)17(19) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Repeat decrease rows 5–6 and two rows without decreasing two more times. 4 sts decreased at the front edge, 7(9)11(11)13(15) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off.
Back
Using the smaller needles, cast on 39(43)45(49)53(55) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm, begin armhole decreases:
Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row.
Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row. 35(39)41(41)45(47) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing.
Decrease row 3: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], work to end of row.
Decrease row 4: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], work to end of row. 31(35)37(37)41(43) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles, cast on 19(21)23(25)27(29) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
When you have worked for approx. 3 cm after the ribbing, keep working fisherman’s rib and begin increases at both ends:
Increase row 1: (WS) k1, yarn over, work until 1 st remains, yarn over, k1.
Next row: (RS) k1, knit the yarn over through the back loop, work to other yarn over and knit it through the back loop, k1.
Work all increased sts following the fisherman’s rib pattern. Repeat the increase row and the following row every 6 cm 3 more times. 27(29)31(33)35(37) sts now on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the sleeve measures 45(46)47(48)49(50) cm (or length of your arm from wrist to underarm.
Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row, turn work.
Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row, turn work. 19(23)25(27)29(31) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib for 2 rows.
On the next 2 rows, bind off 2(2)2(2)2(2) more sts at both ends.
With the remaining 15(19)21(23)25(27) sts, work fisherman’s rib for 4 more rows, then bind off.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements and steam lightly. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and with RS facing, pick up sts for the border. Pick up sts from the right front edge, back neckline and left front edge for approx. 97(101)105(109)113(117) sts in total. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st.
Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, p2.
On further rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Work ribbing for 4 more rows, then bind off loosely.
Sew the sleeve seams. Sew the sleeves. The beginning of round should be at the bottom edge of armhole.
Steam the cardigan lightly.
Finished dimensions
width of front pieces 24(26)29(32)34(36) cm + border, approx. 2.5 cm / 9½(10¼)11½(12½)13½(14¼) in + border, approx. 1 in
back width 46(51)54(59)64(66) cm / 18(20)21¼(23¼)25¼(26) in
length 47(49)51(53)55(57) cm / 18½(19¼)20(20¾)21¾(22½) in
inner sleeve length 45(46)47(48)49(50) cm / 17¾(18)18½(19)19¼(19¾) in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Fisherman’s rib: Follow the instructions and knit all sts on both RS and WS rows, alternating k1 and k1b stitches as instructed. The first and last st of each row is a knit st. Ribbing: *k1, p1*
Left front
Using the smaller needles, cast on 21(23)25(27)29(31) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b (knit 1 below = knit into the st on the row below, slipping the st on the left-hand needle*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
Work until the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm. On the next WS row, begin neckline decreases:
Decrease row 1: (WS) k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise without knitting the st below, k1, pass the slipped st over), *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Keep working the neckline decreases at the left end and begin armhole decreases at the right end:
Decrease row 2: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge. 17(19)21(21)23(25) sts on the needles.
Next row (no decreases): (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Next row (no decreases): (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row.
Decrease row 3: (WS) k2, skp, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 4: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts], *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge. 13(15)17(17)19(21) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Decrease row 5: (WS) k2, skp, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 6: (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 5 sts remain, skp, k1, k1b, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 11(13)15(15)17(19) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Repeat decrease rows 5–6 and two rows without decreasing two more times. 4 sts decreased at the front edge, 7(9)11(11)13(15) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off. Bind off as follows: K2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *K1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Right front
Work like left front until the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm.
On the next WS row, begin armhole decreases and neckline decreases:
Decrease row 1: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, k2tog (knit the knit st together with the st on the row below), k2. 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 2: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 17(19)21(21)23(25) sts on the needles.
Next row (no decreases): (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Next row (no decreases): (RS) k1, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* to end of row.
Decrease row 3: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, k2tog, k2. 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts decreased at the armhole, 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 4: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 13(15)17(17)19(21) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Decrease row 5: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 4 sts remain, work 2 sts together, k2. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge.
Decrease row 6: (RS) k1, k1b, k1, k2tog, *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. 1(1)1(1)1(1) st decreased at the front edge, 11(13)15(15)17(19) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing as established.
Repeat decrease rows 5–6 and two rows without decreasing two more times. 4 sts decreased at the front edge, 7(9)11(11)13(15) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off.
Back
Using the smaller needles, cast on 39(43)45(49)53(55) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32(33) cm, begin armhole decreases:
Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row.
Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 2(2)2(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row. 35(39)41(41)45(47) sts on the needles.
Work 2 rows without decreasing.
Decrease row 3: (RS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], work to end of row.
Decrease row 4: (WS) bind off the first 2(2)2(2)2(2) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one], work to end of row. 31(35)37(37)41(43) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, then bind off.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles, cast on 19(21)23(25)27(29) sts and work ribbing:
Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Row 2: (RS) k2, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you have completed 7 rows in total.
Switch to the larger needles and begin fisherman’s rib:
Row 1: (RS) *k1, k1b*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) k2, *k1b, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2.
When you have worked for approx. 3 cm after the ribbing, keep working fisherman’s rib and begin increases at both ends:
Increase row 1: (WS) k1, yarn over, work until 1 st remains, yarn over, k1.
Next row: (RS) k1, knit the yarn over through the back loop, work to other yarn over and knit it through the back loop, k1.
Work all increased sts following the fisherman’s rib pattern. Repeat the increase row and the following row every 6 cm 3 more times. 27(29)31(33)35(37) sts now on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib until the sleeve measures 45(46)47(48)49(50) cm (or length of your arm from wrist to underarm.
Decrease row 1: (RS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= knit 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *k1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row, turn work.
Decrease row 2: (WS) bind off the first 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts [= purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, *p1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *–* until you have bound off 4(4)4(4)4(4) sts], work to end of row, turn work. 19(23)25(27)29(31) sts on the needles.
Work fisherman’s rib for 2 rows.
On the next 2 rows, bind off 2(2)2(2)2(2) more sts at both ends.
With the remaining 15(19)21(23)25(27) sts, work fisherman’s rib for 4 more rows, then bind off.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements and steam lightly. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and with RS facing, pick up sts for the border. Pick up sts from the right front edge, back neckline and left front edge for approx. 97(101)105(109)113(117) sts in total. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st.
Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, keep repeating *–* until 2 sts remain, p2.
On further rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Work ribbing for 4 more rows, then bind off loosely.
Sew the sleeve seams. Sew the sleeves. The beginning of round should be at the bottom edge of armhole.
Steam the cardigan lightly.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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