Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Huviretki: Vanilja-knitted top
As low as €5.95
In the Vanilja knitted top (Finnish for vanilla), different cable- and textured patterns form a beautiful whole. Using Novita Huviretki yarn, the top is knitted in separate parts, which are sewn together at the end.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
21
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N022221
Sale
Novita Huviretki
As low as
€2.72
Regular Price
€4.54
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXLYarn demand
Novita Huviretki
(004) Snow Slopes 400(450)500(550)600 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita knitting needles size 3–3,5 mm (US 2.5/UK 11 - US 4/UK 10 or 9) and 3,5–4 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9 - US 6/UK 8) or size needed to fit gauge and for the neckline border Novita circular needles (40 cm/16”) Novita 3–3.5 mm (US 2.5/UK 11 - US 4/UK 10 or 9).
Designer
Lea PetäjäBack
CO 124(136)144(154)168 sts using the smaller size ndls and work ribbing on the WS, as follows: k2, p3 (k2, p3) p3 (p2) p3, *k3, p3 , rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times, k2, **p2, k2, rep from ** 24(24)24(27)27 more times, *p3, k3, rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times and p3, k2 (p3, k2) p3 (p2) p3. Work in est. rib stitch pattern for 3 cm/1.2”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working row 1 of cable pattern acc to chart: p2, k3 (p2, k3) k3 (k2) k3, *p3, k3, rep from *0(1)2(2)3 more times, work section A (=7 sts), section B 1(1)1(2)2 times [= 6(6)6(12)12 sts], section C (= 21 sts + 2 sts), section D 8 times (= 32 sts), section E (= 2 sts + 1 st), section F (= 21 sts + 2 sts), section G 1(1)1(2)2 times [= 6(6)6(12)12 sts], section H (= 7 sts), *k3, p3, rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times and k3, p2 (k3, p2) k3 (k2) k3. In this row, 5 sts are increased and there are now 129(141)149(159)173 sts (please note that the number of stitches in sections D-E varies depending on the row). Work in est. rib st pattern at the beg and end of each row and work cable pattern acc to rows 2-9 across the sts in the middle. When work measures 36(37)38(39)40 cm / 14.2(14.6)15 (15.4)15.8”, BO for armhole shaping, as follows: at the beg of each of the following rows, BO 5(5)6(8)10 sts twice, BO 3 sts twice, BO 2 sts 2(2)4(6)6 time(s) and BO 1 st 2(6)6(6)8 time(s) = 107(115)117(119)127 sts.
When armholes measure 16(17)18(19)20 cm / 6.3(6.7)7.1(7.5)7.9”, place the middle 39(39)39(41)41 sts on hold for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO 2 sts 2 more times, at the neckline edge.
When armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm / 7.1(7.5)7.9(8.3)8.7”, BO the rem 30(34)35(35)39 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Front
Work in the same way as described for back, until armholes measure 8(9)10(11)12 cm / 3.2(3.5)4(4.3)4.7”. Place the middle 31(31)31(33)33 sts on hold for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. At the neckline edge, in every 2nd row, BO 3 sts once, 2 sts twice and 1 st once.
When armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm / 7.1(7.5)7.9(8.3)8.7”, BO the rem 30(34)35(35)39 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Sleeves
CO 76(80)86(90)98 sts using the smaller size ndls and work ribbing on the WS, as follows: p3 (k2, p3) p2 (k1, p3) p2, *k3, p3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times, k2, **p2, k2 , rep from **10 more times, *p3, k3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times and p3 (p3, k2) p2 (p3, k1) p2. Work in est. rib stitch pattern for 2 cm/0.8”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working row 1 of cable pattern acc to chart: k3 (p2, k3) k2 (p1, k3) k2, *p3, k3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times, work cable pattern (46 sts + 2 sts), *k3, p3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times and k3 (k3, p2) k2 (k3, p1) k2. In this rnd, 2 sts are increased and there are now 78(82)88(92)100 sts. Work in est. rib st pattern at the beg and end of each row and work cable pattern acc to rows 2-9 across the sts in the middle.
When work measures 3(3)4(4)3 cm / 1.2(1.2)1.6(1.6)1.2”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row, as follows: work the first st in pattern, M1 (knitwise or purlwise, depending on the ribbing), work in pattern to the last st, M1 (knitwise or purlwise), work the last st in pattern. Rep these inc’s every 1(1)1(1,5)2 cm / 0.4(0.4)0.4(0.6)0.8” 4(4)4(4)3 more times = 88(92)98(102)108 sts. Work the increased sts in rib stitch pattern.
When work measures 8(8)9(9)10 cm / 3.2(3.2)3.5(3.5)4”, BO for sleeve cap shaping at the beg of each row, as follows: 5(5)6(6)8 sts 2 times, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2(2)4(4)6 times, then dec 1 st at the beg and end of every 2nd row 14(15)16(17)16 times, and at the beg of the next 4 rows, BO 2 sts twice and 3 sts twice. BO all rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the sweater inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry. Close shoulder seams.
Neckline border: place the held sts of front and back neckline back onto the ndl and PUK extra sts along rest of neckline, to a total of 120(120)124(124)124 sts. Work 2/2 ribbing in the round for 2.5 cm/1” and BO all sts in pattern.
Close side- and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in armholes.
Weave in all ends.
Abbreviations:
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
est. = established
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k3tog = knit 3 sts together
M1 (knitwise/purlwise) = increase 1 st by working the bar between 2 sts as a twisted knit/purl stitch
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
1 M re, in Rückreihe 1 M li = k1, purl on WS
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, knit on WS
1 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = slip 1 st onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k1 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen,1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k1, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k2 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = slip 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = slip 3 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k3, k3 from CN
1 M re zunehmen, dafür den Querfaden zwischen den M verschränkt rechts (=durch das hintere Maschenglied) stricken = M1 knitwise
1 M l i zunehmen, dafür den Querfaden zwischen den M verschränkt li (=hinteres Maschenglied) stricken = M1 purlwise
in der Rückreihe 1 M 3mal stricken (re, li, re) = on WS, work (k1, p1, k1) into the same stitch
in der Rückreihe 3 M re zusammen stricken = on WS, k3tog
Diagramm = Chart
Reihen 2-9 wiederholen = Rep rows 2-9
2 M = 2 sts (and for all numbers above 2 the translation of M = sts)
1 M = 1 st
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements:
Chest circumference: 88(96)104(112)124 cm/35(38)40(44)49”
Total length: 54(56)58(60)62 cm/21.3(22)22.8(23.6)24.4”
Underarm length: 8(8)9(9)10 cm/3.2(3.2)3.5(3.5)4”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: 2/2 Ribbing worked flat: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of row; in the following rows, work sts as they appear. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Cable pattern: work acc to instructions and charts. 2/2 Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Gauge/Tension: 29 sts and 28 rows in cable pattern using the larger size ndls = 10 cm/4”,
25 sts in 3/3 ribbing (k3, p3), using the larger size ndls =10 cm/4”
Back
CO 124(136)144(154)168 sts using the smaller size ndls and work ribbing on the WS, as follows: k2, p3 (k2, p3) p3 (p2) p3, *k3, p3 , rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times, k2, **p2, k2, rep from ** 24(24)24(27)27 more times, *p3, k3, rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times and p3, k2 (p3, k2) p3 (p2) p3. Work in est. rib stitch pattern for 3 cm/1.2”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working row 1 of cable pattern acc to chart: p2, k3 (p2, k3) k3 (k2) k3, *p3, k3, rep from *0(1)2(2)3 more times, work section A (=7 sts), section B 1(1)1(2)2 times [= 6(6)6(12)12 sts], section C (= 21 sts + 2 sts), section D 8 times (= 32 sts), section E (= 2 sts + 1 st), section F (= 21 sts + 2 sts), section G 1(1)1(2)2 times [= 6(6)6(12)12 sts], section H (= 7 sts), *k3, p3, rep from * 0(1)2(2)3 more times and k3, p2 (k3, p2) k3 (k2) k3. In this row, 5 sts are increased and there are now 129(141)149(159)173 sts (please note that the number of stitches in sections D-E varies depending on the row). Work in est. rib st pattern at the beg and end of each row and work cable pattern acc to rows 2-9 across the sts in the middle. When work measures 36(37)38(39)40 cm / 14.2(14.6)15 (15.4)15.8”, BO for armhole shaping, as follows: at the beg of each of the following rows, BO 5(5)6(8)10 sts twice, BO 3 sts twice, BO 2 sts 2(2)4(6)6 time(s) and BO 1 st 2(6)6(6)8 time(s) = 107(115)117(119)127 sts.
When armholes measure 16(17)18(19)20 cm / 6.3(6.7)7.1(7.5)7.9”, place the middle 39(39)39(41)41 sts on hold for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO 2 sts 2 more times, at the neckline edge.
When armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm / 7.1(7.5)7.9(8.3)8.7”, BO the rem 30(34)35(35)39 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Front
Work in the same way as described for back, until armholes measure 8(9)10(11)12 cm / 3.2(3.5)4(4.3)4.7”. Place the middle 31(31)31(33)33 sts on hold for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. At the neckline edge, in every 2nd row, BO 3 sts once, 2 sts twice and 1 st once.
When armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm / 7.1(7.5)7.9(8.3)8.7”, BO the rem 30(34)35(35)39 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Sleeves
CO 76(80)86(90)98 sts using the smaller size ndls and work ribbing on the WS, as follows: p3 (k2, p3) p2 (k1, p3) p2, *k3, p3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times, k2, **p2, k2 , rep from **10 more times, *p3, k3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times and p3 (p3, k2) p2 (p3, k1) p2. Work in est. rib stitch pattern for 2 cm/0.8”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working row 1 of cable pattern acc to chart: k3 (p2, k3) k2 (p1, k3) k2, *p3, k3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times, work cable pattern (46 sts + 2 sts), *k3, p3 , rep from * 1(1)2(2)3 more times and k3 (k3, p2) k2 (k3, p1) k2. In this rnd, 2 sts are increased and there are now 78(82)88(92)100 sts. Work in est. rib st pattern at the beg and end of each row and work cable pattern acc to rows 2-9 across the sts in the middle.
When work measures 3(3)4(4)3 cm / 1.2(1.2)1.6(1.6)1.2”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row, as follows: work the first st in pattern, M1 (knitwise or purlwise, depending on the ribbing), work in pattern to the last st, M1 (knitwise or purlwise), work the last st in pattern. Rep these inc’s every 1(1)1(1,5)2 cm / 0.4(0.4)0.4(0.6)0.8” 4(4)4(4)3 more times = 88(92)98(102)108 sts. Work the increased sts in rib stitch pattern.
When work measures 8(8)9(9)10 cm / 3.2(3.2)3.5(3.5)4”, BO for sleeve cap shaping at the beg of each row, as follows: 5(5)6(6)8 sts 2 times, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2(2)4(4)6 times, then dec 1 st at the beg and end of every 2nd row 14(15)16(17)16 times, and at the beg of the next 4 rows, BO 2 sts twice and 3 sts twice. BO all rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the sweater inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry. Close shoulder seams.
Neckline border: place the held sts of front and back neckline back onto the ndl and PUK extra sts along rest of neckline, to a total of 120(120)124(124)124 sts. Work 2/2 ribbing in the round for 2.5 cm/1” and BO all sts in pattern.
Close side- and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in armholes.
Weave in all ends.
Abbreviations:
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
est. = established
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k3tog = knit 3 sts together
M1 (knitwise/purlwise) = increase 1 st by working the bar between 2 sts as a twisted knit/purl stitch
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
1 M re, in Rückreihe 1 M li = k1, purl on WS
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, knit on WS
1 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = slip 1 st onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k1 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen,1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k1, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k2 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = slip 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = slip 3 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k3, k3 from CN
1 M re zunehmen, dafür den Querfaden zwischen den M verschränkt rechts (=durch das hintere Maschenglied) stricken = M1 knitwise
1 M l i zunehmen, dafür den Querfaden zwischen den M verschränkt li (=hinteres Maschenglied) stricken = M1 purlwise
in der Rückreihe 1 M 3mal stricken (re, li, re) = on WS, work (k1, p1, k1) into the same stitch
in der Rückreihe 3 M re zusammen stricken = on WS, k3tog
Diagramm = Chart
Reihen 2-9 wiederholen = Rep rows 2-9
2 M = 2 sts (and for all numbers above 2 the translation of M = sts)
1 M = 1 st
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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