Novita Huviretki: Piruetti cabled top

As low as €5.54

The Piruetti set of matching top and shorts is an elegant choice for your morning meditation or yoga, or for a pre-ballet warm-up. Both garments feature a cable pattern inspired by ballet pirouettes. The top is knitted in pieces and finished with shoulder straps. The shorts are knitted in the round one leg at a time and finished with a drawstring at the waist. Both garments are knitted using Moomin x Novita Huviretki yarn.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
19
Intermediate
Customize Novita Huviretki: Piruetti cabled top

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    €5.54

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    Availability: In stock

    N042119
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Huviretki

    (004) Snowdrifts 250(250)300(300) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3.5 mm (US 4) or sizes needed for gauge



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 106(118)130(142) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(p2)k2(p2). Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end; sizes M and XL only: work section A (= 6 sts); work section B 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts], work section C (= 6 sts), work section D 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts]; sizes M and XL only: work section E (= 6 sts); work the 2 sts at the left end. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 12(12)13(13) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 = 104(116)128(140) sts.

    When the piece measures approx. 24(25)26(27) cm and you have last worked row 3 of the chart, purl the WS row, purl the RS row and purl the WS row once more.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(III)IV(V): work the 1(2)4(1) sts at the right end, work the 51(55)59(67) st pattern. On the left side, mirror the right side (note the 4 st cable at the front midpoint). Work row 2 of the chart, then repeat rows 3–8 four times.

    Leave the 52(57)63(68) sts at the left end on hold and continue with the 52(57)63(68) sts at the right end.

    Work row 9 of the chart as follows: bind off the first 1(2)4(1) sts, work to end. 2(3)2(4) sts decreased in addition to the bound-off sts. 49(52)57(63) sts remaining.

    Work rows 10–12(22)12(22) of chart II(III)IV(V). 47(37)55(45) sts remaining.

    Keep working the cable pattern and decreasing at the centre until 11 sts remain. Next RS row: k2, p2tog, k3, p2tog, k2 = 9 sts. With these sts, work until the shoulder strap measures approx. 26(28)28(30) cm or desired length. Bind off.

    Left end: mirror right end.

     

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 106(118)130(142) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(p2)k2(p2). Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end; sizes M and XL only: work section A (= 6 sts); work section B 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts], work section C (= 6 sts), work section D 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts]; sizes M and XL only: work section E (= 6 sts); work the 2 sts at the left end. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 12(12)13(13) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 = 104(116)128(140) sts.

    When the piece measures approx. 24(25)26(27) cm and you have last worked row 3 of the chart, purl the WS row, purl the RS row and purl the WS row once more.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(III)IV(V): work the 1(2)4(1) sts at the right end, work the 51(55)59(67) st pattern. On the left side, mirror the right side (note the 4 st cable at the back midpoint). Work row 2 of the chart, then repeat rows 3–8 four times.

    Bind off in ribbing and at the same time decrease 1 st at each p2 stripe by p2tog.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder straps to the back ribbing. Weave in. Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 76(84)92(100) cm / 30(33)36¼(39¼) in

    side length 33(34)35(36) cm / 13(13½)13¾(14¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k2, p2*

    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 106(118)130(142) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(p2)k2(p2). Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end; sizes M and XL only: work section A (= 6 sts); work section B 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts], work section C (= 6 sts), work section D 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts]; sizes M and XL only: work section E (= 6 sts); work the 2 sts at the left end. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 12(12)13(13) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 = 104(116)128(140) sts.

    When the piece measures approx. 24(25)26(27) cm and you have last worked row 3 of the chart, purl the WS row, purl the RS row and purl the WS row once more.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(III)IV(V): work the 1(2)4(1) sts at the right end, work the 51(55)59(67) st pattern. On the left side, mirror the right side (note the 4 st cable at the front midpoint). Work row 2 of the chart, then repeat rows 3–8 four times.

    Leave the 52(57)63(68) sts at the left end on hold and continue with the 52(57)63(68) sts at the right end.

    Work row 9 of the chart as follows: bind off the first 1(2)4(1) sts, work to end. 2(3)2(4) sts decreased in addition to the bound-off sts. 49(52)57(63) sts remaining.

    Work rows 10–12(22)12(22) of chart II(III)IV(V). 47(37)55(45) sts remaining.

    Keep working the cable pattern and decreasing at the centre until 11 sts remain. Next RS row: k2, p2tog, k3, p2tog, k2 = 9 sts. With these sts, work until the shoulder strap measures approx. 26(28)28(30) cm or desired length. Bind off.

    Left end: mirror right end.

     

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 106(118)130(142) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(p2)k2(p2). Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end; sizes M and XL only: work section A (= 6 sts); work section B 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts], work section C (= 6 sts), work section D 4(4)5(5) times [= 48(48)60(60) sts]; sizes M and XL only: work section E (= 6 sts); work the 2 sts at the left end. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 12(12)13(13) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 = 104(116)128(140) sts.

    When the piece measures approx. 24(25)26(27) cm and you have last worked row 3 of the chart, purl the WS row, purl the RS row and purl the WS row once more.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(III)IV(V): work the 1(2)4(1) sts at the right end, work the 51(55)59(67) st pattern. On the left side, mirror the right side (note the 4 st cable at the back midpoint). Work row 2 of the chart, then repeat rows 3–8 four times.

    Bind off in ribbing and at the same time decrease 1 st at each p2 stripe by p2tog.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder straps to the back ribbing. Weave in. Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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