Novita Huviretki: Piruetti cabled shorts

As low as €5.54

The Piruetti set of matching top and shorts is an elegant choice for your morning meditation or yoga, or for a pre-ballet warm-up. Both garments feature a cable pattern inspired by ballet pirouettes. The top is knitted in pieces and finished with shoulder straps. The shorts are knitted in the round one leg at a time and finished with a drawstring at the waist. Both garments are knitted using Moomin x Novita Huviretki yarn.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
20
Intermediate
Customize Novita Huviretki: Piruetti cabled shorts

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    €5.54

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    Availability: In stock

    N042120
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Huviretki

    (004) Snowdrifts 250(300)300(300) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) or size needed; circular needle (60 cm / 24 in) 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Right leg

    Using the 3 mm circular needle, cast on 152(164)176(188) sts and begin k2 p2 ribbing: (WS) p1, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p1. Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(I)II(I): work the 1(7)1(7) sts on the right, work section A 6(6)7(7) times [= 72(72)84(84) sts], work section B (= 6 sts), work section C 6(6)7(7) times [= 72(72)84(84) sts], work the 1(7)1(7) sts on the left. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    Note: When the piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 1.5(1.5)1.5(2) cm 2(4)4(2) more times and then 2(0)0(2) times every 1(1)1(1.5) cm = 162(174)186(198) sts. Work the increased sts in reverse stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 7(8)8(9) cm and you have last worked a WS row, bind off 1x4(4)5(5) sts at the right end for the front crotch, then work to end of row. Bind off 1x6(6)7(7) sts at the left end for back crotch, work to end of row. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end; at the same time: on every other row bind off 2x3 sts, 3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the left end. 130(142)152(164) sts on the needles.

    Note: When the crotch measures 21(22)22(23) cm at the right end, work short rows to shape the waist:  

    Row 1: (WS) work 72(80)86(92) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    RS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (WS) work 61(68)73(78) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 50(56)60(64) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 39(44)47(50) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 28(32)34(36) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 11: work 17(20)21(22) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Work the RS row once more and leave the sts on hold.

     

    Left leg

    Mirror right leg (including the cables).

     

    Waist

    Place the sts of both legs onto the 3 mm circular needle. Place markers at the edges of the legs. 260(284)304(328) sts on the needles. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint.

    Work k1 p1 ribbing in the round. On the first round work the loops of the double sts together and evenly decrease 84(92)92(98) sts = 176(192)212(230) sts.

    Work ribbing for 2.5 cm. On the next round make holes for the drawstring: work 81(89)99(107) sts, k2tog, yarn over, work 11 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. Work ribbing in the round for 1.5 cm, then bind off in pattern.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Sew the leg seams and crotch seam.

    Drawstring: Using the smaller needles, cast on 3 sts and k3. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts to the other end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k3.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 130(140)150(160) cm. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.

    Pull the string through one of the holes in the front. Thread the string through approx. every 3rd knit st on the inside and finally through the other hole in the front.

    Finished dimensions

    waist circumference 74(82)90(98) cm / 29¼(32¼)35½(38½) in

    inner leg length 7(8)8(9) cm / 2¾(3¼)3¼(3½) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns K2 p2 ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. WS: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Reverse stockinette stitch: purl the right side rows and knit the wrong side rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Right leg

    Using the 3 mm circular needle, cast on 152(164)176(188) sts and begin k2 p2 ribbing: (WS) p1, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p1. Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II(I)II(I): work the 1(7)1(7) sts on the right, work section A 6(6)7(7) times [= 72(72)84(84) sts], work section B (= 6 sts), work section C 6(6)7(7) times [= 72(72)84(84) sts], work the 1(7)1(7) sts on the left. Keep repeating rows 2–7 of the chart.

    Note: When the piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 1.5(1.5)1.5(2) cm 2(4)4(2) more times and then 2(0)0(2) times every 1(1)1(1.5) cm = 162(174)186(198) sts. Work the increased sts in reverse stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 7(8)8(9) cm and you have last worked a WS row, bind off 1x4(4)5(5) sts at the right end for the front crotch, then work to end of row. Bind off 1x6(6)7(7) sts at the left end for back crotch, work to end of row. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end; at the same time: on every other row bind off 2x3 sts, 3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the left end. 130(142)152(164) sts on the needles.

    Note: When the crotch measures 21(22)22(23) cm at the right end, work short rows to shape the waist:  

    Row 1: (WS) work 72(80)86(92) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    RS rows: Slip 1 and tighten the yarn so that the st and yarn over form a double stitch, work to end. Turn work.

    Row 3: (WS) work 61(68)73(78) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 5: work 50(56)60(64) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 7: work 39(44)47(50) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 9: work 28(32)34(36) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Row 11: work 17(20)21(22) sts, turn work and yarn over.

    Work the RS row once more and leave the sts on hold.

     

    Left leg

    Mirror right leg (including the cables).

     

    Waist

    Place the sts of both legs onto the 3 mm circular needle. Place markers at the edges of the legs. 260(284)304(328) sts on the needles. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint.

    Work k1 p1 ribbing in the round. On the first round work the loops of the double sts together and evenly decrease 84(92)92(98) sts = 176(192)212(230) sts.

    Work ribbing for 2.5 cm. On the next round make holes for the drawstring: work 81(89)99(107) sts, k2tog, yarn over, work 11 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. Work ribbing in the round for 1.5 cm, then bind off in pattern.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Sew the leg seams and crotch seam.

    Drawstring: Using the smaller needles, cast on 3 sts and k3. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts to the other end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k3.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 130(140)150(160) cm. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.

    Pull the string through one of the holes in the front. Thread the string through approx. every 3rd knit st on the inside and finally through the other hole in the front.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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