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Novita 7 Veljestä: Vapaus knitted sweater

As low as €3.02

The graphic Vapaus sweater features a fascinating texture pattern consisting of criss-crossing stripes of ribbing. The sweater is knitted back and forth using Novita 7 Veljestä, and the pieces are then sewn together.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 26
Skill level Expert
Novita 7 Veljestä: Vapaus knitted sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-060 sand
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-060 sand
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-060 sand
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-060 sand
€5.54
Novita knitting needles 35 cm-4.0 mm
€3.02

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Vapaus knitted sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä: Vapaus knitted sweater

In stock

€3.02

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N032126
    Pattern details
    Size
    S/M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (060) Sand 750(800)850(900) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) or sizes needed; a 4 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the collar



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 126(134)146(154) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 rows in total.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) p0(0)2(2), k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p0(0)2(2). Work ribbing for 4(6)10(12) rows.

    Begin the textured pattern on row 7(5)3(1) of chart I: (RS) work 5(9)15(19) sts in ribbing, work the 116 st pattern, work 5(9)15(19) sts in ribbing. Work rows 8(6)4(2)–80 of chart I, then work rows 81–100(98)94(92) of chart II.

    Work rows 101(99)95(93)–102 of chart II and at the same time bind off 1x5(7)8(10) sts at both ends for armholes. On every other row bind off at both ends 0(0)1(1)x3 sts and 0(1)2(3)x2 sts = 116(116)116(116) sts.

    Work rows 103–142 of chart II. 70 sts on the needles.

    Work rows 143–145 of chart II. Place midpoint marker and continue on row 146: follow the chart until you have worked 9 sts after the midpoint marker. Leave the previous 18 sts on hold for the neckline, work to end.

    On the right side of the neckline, work rows 147–154 of the chart. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold for the collar.

    On the left side of the neckline, work rows 147–153 of the chart. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 126(134)146(154) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 rows in total.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) p0(0)2(2), k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p0(0)2(2).

    When the piece measures same length as front, work ribbing and at both ends bind off 1x5(7)8(10) sts for armholes. On every other row bind off at both ends 0(0)1(1)x3 sts and 0(1)2(3)x2 sts = 116(116)116(116) sts.

    On the next RS row, begin decreases: k1, p2, k1, skp, work to last 6 sts, k2tog, k1, p2, k1. Repeat the decreases on every other row 12 more times and then 31 times on every row. Work the WS row and k2tog at both ends. Leave the remaining 26(26)26(26) sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Right sleeve

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 46(46)46(46) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 5 cm.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.

    After 2 rows, begin increases:

    Increase row 1: (RS) work 8 sts, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), place 1st marker, work 8 sts, m1R, place 2nd marker, work 14 sts, place 3rd marker, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work 8 sts, place 4th marker, m1L, work 8 sts = 50(50)50(50) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 2: (RS) work 9 sts, m1R, SM (slip marker), work 9 sts, m1R, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1L, work 9 sts, SM, m1L, work 9 sts = 54(54)54(54) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 3: (RS) work 10 sts, m1Rp (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and purl it through the front loop), SM, work 10 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1Lp (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and purl it through the back loop), work 10 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 10 sts = 58(58)58(58) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 4: (RS) work 11 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 11 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 11 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 11 sts = 62(62)62(62) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Work ribbing and keep increasing as follows: on the right side of the 1st marker, 0(0)4(4) more times; on the right side of the 2nd marker and on the left side of the 3rd marker, 8(8)8(8) more times on every other row; on the left side of the 4th marker, 0(0)4(4) more times. After completing the increases, remove the markers.

    Note: When the piece measures 17 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k2, m1L/m1Lp as required to maintain rib pattern, work to last 2 sts, m1R/m1Rp as required to maintain rib pattern. Repeat the increases on every 6(4)4(4)th row 4(7)6(9) more times. Work the increased sts in ribbing. 88(94)100(106) sts on the needles after the increases.

    Note: When the piece measures 19 cm, begin the 34 st textured pattern in the middle of the piece following row 1 of chart III. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2–32, then work ribbing.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(49) cm, bind off 1x4(5)6(7) sts at both ends. On every other row, bind off at both ends 0(1)1(2)x2 sts and 0(0)2(2)x1 st = 80(80)80(80) sts.

    Work ribbing as established and begin raglan decreases at both ends: (RS) k2, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 15 more times. 48(48)48(48) sts on the needles.

    Mark the middle 12 sts and decrease in the middle: (RS) work to last 2 sts before marked sts, k2tog, work marked 12 sts, skp, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every other row 11 more times. Work the WS row once more: ssp (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip them back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop), work to last 2 sts, p2tog. Leave the remaining 22(22)22(22) sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Left sleeve

    Work like right sleeve but work the textured pattern following chart IV.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the raglan seams.

    Place the 26(26)26(26) back sts, 22(22)22(22) left sleeve sts, 46(46)46(46) front sts and 22(22)22(22) right sleeve sts onto the circular needle (40 cm) = 116(116)116(116) sts. Work ribbing in the round. Work the loops of double sts together to form one st. On both sides of the middle 12 sts in the sleeves, decrease on every other row 4 more times = 100(100)100(100) sts. When the collar measures 16 cm, bind off in ribbing.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 104(112)120(128) cm / 41(44)47¼(50½) in

    middle back length 60(62)64(66) cm / 23½(24½)25¼(26) in

    inner sleeve length 47(48)49(49) cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns K1 p1 ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. K2 p2 ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge 24 sts and 26 rows in k2 p2 ribbing with larger needles (lightly stretched) = 10 cm / 4 in



    Front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 126(134)146(154) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 rows in total.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) p0(0)2(2), k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p0(0)2(2). Work ribbing for 4(6)10(12) rows.

    Begin the textured pattern on row 7(5)3(1) of chart I: (RS) work 5(9)15(19) sts in ribbing, work the 116 st pattern, work 5(9)15(19) sts in ribbing. Work rows 8(6)4(2)–80 of chart I, then work rows 81–100(98)94(92) of chart II.

    Work rows 101(99)95(93)–102 of chart II and at the same time bind off 1x5(7)8(10) sts at both ends for armholes. On every other row bind off at both ends 0(0)1(1)x3 sts and 0(1)2(3)x2 sts = 116(116)116(116) sts.

    Work rows 103–142 of chart II. 70 sts on the needles.

    Work rows 143–145 of chart II. Place midpoint marker and continue on row 146: follow the chart until you have worked 9 sts after the midpoint marker. Leave the previous 18 sts on hold for the neckline, work to end.

    On the right side of the neckline, work rows 147–154 of the chart. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold for the collar.

    On the left side of the neckline, work rows 147–153 of the chart. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 126(134)146(154) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 rows in total.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) p0(0)2(2), k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p0(0)2(2).

    When the piece measures same length as front, work ribbing and at both ends bind off 1x5(7)8(10) sts for armholes. On every other row bind off at both ends 0(0)1(1)x3 sts and 0(1)2(3)x2 sts = 116(116)116(116) sts.

    On the next RS row, begin decreases: k1, p2, k1, skp, work to last 6 sts, k2tog, k1, p2, k1. Repeat the decreases on every other row 12 more times and then 31 times on every row. Work the WS row and k2tog at both ends. Leave the remaining 26(26)26(26) sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Right sleeve

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 46(46)46(46) sts and begin k1 p1 ribbing: (WS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 5 cm.

    Begin k2 p2 ribbing: (RS) k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.

    After 2 rows, begin increases:

    Increase row 1: (RS) work 8 sts, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), place 1st marker, work 8 sts, m1R, place 2nd marker, work 14 sts, place 3rd marker, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work 8 sts, place 4th marker, m1L, work 8 sts = 50(50)50(50) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 2: (RS) work 9 sts, m1R, SM (slip marker), work 9 sts, m1R, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1L, work 9 sts, SM, m1L, work 9 sts = 54(54)54(54) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 3: (RS) work 10 sts, m1Rp (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and purl it through the front loop), SM, work 10 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1Lp (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and purl it through the back loop), work 10 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 10 sts = 58(58)58(58) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Increase row 4: (RS) work 11 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 11 sts, m1Rp, SM, work 14 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 11 sts, SM, m1Lp, work 11 sts = 62(62)62(62) sts. On the WS row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Work ribbing and keep increasing as follows: on the right side of the 1st marker, 0(0)4(4) more times; on the right side of the 2nd marker and on the left side of the 3rd marker, 8(8)8(8) more times on every other row; on the left side of the 4th marker, 0(0)4(4) more times. After completing the increases, remove the markers.

    Note: When the piece measures 17 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k2, m1L/m1Lp as required to maintain rib pattern, work to last 2 sts, m1R/m1Rp as required to maintain rib pattern. Repeat the increases on every 6(4)4(4)th row 4(7)6(9) more times. Work the increased sts in ribbing. 88(94)100(106) sts on the needles after the increases.

    Note: When the piece measures 19 cm, begin the 34 st textured pattern in the middle of the piece following row 1 of chart III. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2–32, then work ribbing.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(49) cm, bind off 1x4(5)6(7) sts at both ends. On every other row, bind off at both ends 0(1)1(2)x2 sts and 0(0)2(2)x1 st = 80(80)80(80) sts.

    Work ribbing as established and begin raglan decreases at both ends: (RS) k2, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 15 more times. 48(48)48(48) sts on the needles.

    Mark the middle 12 sts and decrease in the middle: (RS) work to last 2 sts before marked sts, k2tog, work marked 12 sts, skp, work to end. Repeat the decreases on every other row 11 more times. Work the WS row once more: ssp (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip them back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop), work to last 2 sts, p2tog. Leave the remaining 22(22)22(22) sts on hold for the collar.

     

    Left sleeve

    Work like right sleeve but work the textured pattern following chart IV.

     

    Finishing

    Sew the raglan seams.

    Place the 26(26)26(26) back sts, 22(22)22(22) left sleeve sts, 46(46)46(46) front sts and 22(22)22(22) right sleeve sts onto the circular needle (40 cm) = 116(116)116(116) sts. Work ribbing in the round. Work the loops of double sts together to form one st. On both sides of the middle 12 sts in the sleeves, decrease on every other row 4 more times = 100(100)100(100) sts. When the collar measures 16 cm, bind off in ribbing.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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