Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Novita 7 Veljestä Nature
(183) Drops 750(900)1050 g
Crochet hook: Novita 5 mm (US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge
Notions: 1 fastener, if desired
Note: this pattern is written in US crochet terms. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you are used to the UK terms!
Square (Drawing I, A in red)
Wrap yarn around finger to form a magic ring and then crochet into this magic ring (see crochet chart), as follows:
Rnd 1: ch 3 (1st dc), 19 dc and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd = 20 dc.
Rnd 2: ch 3 (1st dc), *ch 1 and 1 dc into next dc, rep from * 18 more times, ch 1 and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd.
Continue working acc to rnds 3-17 of crochet chart. Then crochet rnds 18-26 (note that in the crochet chart, only ¼ of the chart is shown, work the section marked in red a total of 4 times in the round) and work rnds 25-26 as many times as needed (in every rnd, 2 sts are increased on both sides of every corner). When work measures approx. 77(86)95 cm/ 30.3(33.8)37.4”, measured from corner to corner and the last rnd was a dc-rnd, cut yarn.
Side section (Drawing I, B in blue)
Continue working on both sides of the square, as follows: join yarn with 1 sc at the corner (in crochet chart in blue) and crochet rnd 28 of the crochet chart: dec 2 sts acc to Drawing, then continue working as before to next corner, work the corner as set (on both sides of each corner, 2 sts are decreased) and work the second side as before and dec 2 sts at the corner as shown in Drawing. Turn work and continue working rows 29-31 back and forth as set. In every row, on both sides of the edges, 2 sts are decreased. Continue crocheting as set, until work, from center point to corner, measures approx. 45(50)55 cm/17.7(19.7)21.7”, ending with a dc-row.
Triangle on side section (Drawing I, C in green)
Continue working on 1 side only. Crochet as before, but only dec 2 sts on both sides of every row, until all sts are decreased. Cut yarn.
Second triangle on side section (Drawing I, D in green)
Join yarn with 1 sc into corner, as at the beg of row 28, and crochet this triangle in the same way as described for triangle C.
Work second side section (E) and the corresponding triangles (F and G) in the same way as described for first side section.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Bring corners of crocheted piece together, as shown in Drawing II. Close seams (marked in purple in the drawing), leaving an opening of approx. 14(15)16 cm/5.5(5.9)6.3” for the arms. Lightly steam the seams.
Sleeve cuffs:
Rnd 1: Join yarn with 1 sc into the seam and ch 3 (= 1st dc), then crochet 2 dc into each row and 1 dc at the straight line at the opening. The total stitch count has to be divisible by 2. Close rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st at beg of rnd.
Rnd 2: ch 3 (= 1 dc), *1 FPdc (= front post double crochet: crochet 1 dc around dc of previous rnd, from front to back), 1 BPdc (= back post double crochet: crochet 1 dc around dc of previous rnd, from back to front), rep from * to end of rnd and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd.
Rep rnd 2, until sleeve cuff measures 20(21)22 cm/7.9(8.3)8.7”. Cut yarn.
Crochet second sleeve cuff in the same way.
Collar: Staring at the center of the back, measure approx. 55(58)61 cm/21.7(22.8)24” down, along the left front edge and place a marker at the beg of the round. Also place a marker at the corresponding place on the right front edge. With RS facing, start at the marker on the right edge and join yarn with 1 sc into front part.
Row 1: ch 2 (= 1st dc), then 2 dc into each row and 1 dc at the beg of the rnd. Crochet as set to left side marker, turn work.
Now work rows of front- and back post double crochets, as follows:
Row 2: ch 2 (= 1st dc), raised dc3tog into 1 st (alternately work FPdc and BPdc halfway, then yarn over hook and pull yarn through all 4 loops on the hook at the same time), *1 BPdc, 1 FPdc, rep from * to the last 4 sts of the row, raised dc3tog and 1 dc into last st. Turn work.
Crochet the raised-dc as they appear, i.e. crochet FPdc around FPdc of previous row and crochet BPdc around BPdc of previous row.
Row 3: ch 2 (= 1st dc), raised dc3tog, crochet raised-dc to the last 4 sts, raised dc3tog and 1 dc into last st. Turn work.
Rep row 3 until collar measures 14 cm/5.5”. Cut yarn.
If desired, sew a fastener onto front edge. Attach the fastener to the appropriate place on the first row.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BP = back post
BPdc = back post double crochet
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dc3tog = double crochet 3 stitches together
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
FP = front post
FPdc = front post double crochet
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together
Finished measurements of cardigan:
Width approx. 90(100)110 cm/35.4(39.4)43.3”
Height approx. 77(86)95 cm/30.3(33.8)37.4”
Crochet stitch patterns: chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), treble (tr) and slip stitch (sl st), work acc to crochet chart and written instructions.
Gauge/Tension: Size of 1 square, worked acc to rnds 1-13: 27 x 27 cm/10.6” square
Note: this pattern is written in US crochet terms. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you are used to the UK terms!
Square (Drawing I, A in red)
Wrap yarn around finger to form a magic ring and then crochet into this magic ring (see crochet chart), as follows:
Rnd 1: ch 3 (1st dc), 19 dc and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd = 20 dc.
Rnd 2: ch 3 (1st dc), *ch 1 and 1 dc into next dc, rep from * 18 more times, ch 1 and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd.
Continue working acc to rnds 3-17 of crochet chart. Then crochet rnds 18-26 (note that in the crochet chart, only ¼ of the chart is shown, work the section marked in red a total of 4 times in the round) and work rnds 25-26 as many times as needed (in every rnd, 2 sts are increased on both sides of every corner). When work measures approx. 77(86)95 cm/ 30.3(33.8)37.4”, measured from corner to corner and the last rnd was a dc-rnd, cut yarn.
Side section (Drawing I, B in blue)
Continue working on both sides of the square, as follows: join yarn with 1 sc at the corner (in crochet chart in blue) and crochet rnd 28 of the crochet chart: dec 2 sts acc to Drawing, then continue working as before to next corner, work the corner as set (on both sides of each corner, 2 sts are decreased) and work the second side as before and dec 2 sts at the corner as shown in Drawing. Turn work and continue working rows 29-31 back and forth as set. In every row, on both sides of the edges, 2 sts are decreased. Continue crocheting as set, until work, from center point to corner, measures approx. 45(50)55 cm/17.7(19.7)21.7”, ending with a dc-row.
Triangle on side section (Drawing I, C in green)
Continue working on 1 side only. Crochet as before, but only dec 2 sts on both sides of every row, until all sts are decreased. Cut yarn.
Second triangle on side section (Drawing I, D in green)
Join yarn with 1 sc into corner, as at the beg of row 28, and crochet this triangle in the same way as described for triangle C.
Work second side section (E) and the corresponding triangles (F and G) in the same way as described for first side section.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Bring corners of crocheted piece together, as shown in Drawing II. Close seams (marked in purple in the drawing), leaving an opening of approx. 14(15)16 cm/5.5(5.9)6.3” for the arms. Lightly steam the seams.
Sleeve cuffs:
Rnd 1: Join yarn with 1 sc into the seam and ch 3 (= 1st dc), then crochet 2 dc into each row and 1 dc at the straight line at the opening. The total stitch count has to be divisible by 2. Close rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st at beg of rnd.
Rnd 2: ch 3 (= 1 dc), *1 FPdc (= front post double crochet: crochet 1 dc around dc of previous rnd, from front to back), 1 BPdc (= back post double crochet: crochet 1 dc around dc of previous rnd, from back to front), rep from * to end of rnd and join rnd with 1 sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd.
Rep rnd 2, until sleeve cuff measures 20(21)22 cm/7.9(8.3)8.7”. Cut yarn.
Crochet second sleeve cuff in the same way.
Collar: Staring at the center of the back, measure approx. 55(58)61 cm/21.7(22.8)24” down, along the left front edge and place a marker at the beg of the round. Also place a marker at the corresponding place on the right front edge. With RS facing, start at the marker on the right edge and join yarn with 1 sc into front part.
Row 1: ch 2 (= 1st dc), then 2 dc into each row and 1 dc at the beg of the rnd. Crochet as set to left side marker, turn work.
Now work rows of front- and back post double crochets, as follows:
Row 2: ch 2 (= 1st dc), raised dc3tog into 1 st (alternately work FPdc and BPdc halfway, then yarn over hook and pull yarn through all 4 loops on the hook at the same time), *1 BPdc, 1 FPdc, rep from * to the last 4 sts of the row, raised dc3tog and 1 dc into last st. Turn work.
Crochet the raised-dc as they appear, i.e. crochet FPdc around FPdc of previous row and crochet BPdc around BPdc of previous row.
Row 3: ch 2 (= 1st dc), raised dc3tog, crochet raised-dc to the last 4 sts, raised dc3tog and 1 dc into last st. Turn work.
Rep row 3 until collar measures 14 cm/5.5”. Cut yarn.
If desired, sew a fastener onto front edge. Attach the fastener to the appropriate place on the first row.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BP = back post
BPdc = back post double crochet
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dc3tog = double crochet 3 stitches together
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
FP = front post
FPdc = front post double crochet
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.