Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita 7 Veljestä Nature: Greta-Pullover
As low as €6.96
Different techniques are used on the Greta sweater, keeping it interesting until the end. The body is worked in the round from the bottom up to the armholes and work is joined in the round again at the top of the neckline. The pretty sleeves are made from crocheted granny squares. The Novita 7 Veljestä Nature yarn has a beautiful matt sheen.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
8
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N02228
Related Products
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä Nature
(010) Nature 500(550)550(600) g
(372) Mugwort 150(150)150(150) g
(295) Milk-cap 100(100)150(150) g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita 80 cm/32" circular needles size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) and 4.5–5 mm (US 7/UK 7 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge, a short (40 cm/16") Novita circular needle size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) for neckline border and a Novita crochet hook size 4–5 mm (US 6/UK 8 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge.
Designer
Sisko SälpäkiviNeedles: Novita 80 cm/32" circular needles size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) and 4.5–5 mm (US 7/UK 7 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge, a short (40 cm/16") Novita circular needle size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) for neckline border and a Novita crochet hook size 4–5 mm (US 6/UK 8 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge.
Stich patterns: 2/2 Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from * across. Stockinette st in the round: knit all sts. Stockinette st worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Cable pattern: work acc to written instructions and chart. 2/2 Ribbing worked flat: RS: *k2, p2, rep from * across, in the following rows, work the sts as they appear.
Crochet stitches (Note: when US terms differ from UK terms, both terms are listed, divided by”/”. First US then UK): chain stitch (ch), US double crochet (dc) / UK treble (tr) and slip stitch (sc), work acc to written instructions and crochet chart.
Gauge/Tension: 18 sts and 26 rows, worked in st st using larger size ndls = 10 cm / 4”, size of 1 Granny Square = 8 x 8 cm / 3.2 x 3.2”
Lower part of body, front and back
The body is worked in the round from the bottom up to the armholes.
CO 168(184)200(212) sts using color Nature and smaller size ndls and work in 2/2 ribbing for 6 cm / 2.4”.
Change to larger size circ. ndls and continue working in st st in the round. When work measures approx. 36(38)34,5(36,5) cm / 14.2(15)13.6(14.4)”, knit the first 84(92)100(106) sts of the round for front part and CO 15 new sts at the end of this row, for cable pattern. Turn work and place the rem 84(92)100(106) sts for back part on hold.
Front, upper part
Continue working the front-sts back and forth. Work next WS row, as follows: k1, p1, k2, p9, k2, then p to end of row. At the end of the row, CO 15 new sts and turn work. There are now 114(122)130(136) sts on the ndl.
Continue working Raglan dec’s and at the same time, work cable pattern acc to chart, starting at row 1 of chart: RS rows: k2, work cable patt over 13 sts acc to chart, skp (sl1 knitwise, k1, psso), k to last 17 sts, k2tog, work cable patt over 13 sts acc to chart, k2.
In WS rows, knit first and last st, work rows 2-8 off cable patt, then rep rows 1-8, p all rem sts.
Work the raglan dec’s as described above in every RS row a total of 28(28)34(34) times = 58(66)62(68) sts.
In the last WS row, dec 0(8)0(6) sts evenly spaced = 58(58)62(62) sts.
Place rem sts on hold.
Back, upper part
Work in same way as described for upper part for front.
Sleeves
The sleeves are made from crocheted Granny Squares:
Color combination A:
Row 1: (010) Nature, Row 2: (295) Milk Cap and Row 3: (372) Mugwort
For sizes XS/S- and M: crochet 13 complete Granny Squares and 4 half Granny Squares.
For sizes L- and XL: crochet 16 complete Granny Squares and 5 half Granny Squares.
Color combination B:
Row 1: (295) Milk Cap, Row 2: (372) Mugwort and Row 3: (010) Nature
For sizes XS/S- and M: crochet 16 complete Granny Squares,
For sizes L- and XL: crochet 18 complete Granny Squares.
Granny Square (see crochet chart I)
Using color 1, ch 6, join with a sl st into first ch st.
Row 1: ch 3 (first dc/tr of rnd), work 2 dc/tr, *ch 3, 3 dc/tr, rep from * 2 more times and ch 3 into circle. Join color 2 and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 1.
Row 2: ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work corners as follows: *3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp, rep from * 2 more times, work last corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 2 dc/tr into ch-3 sp. Join color 3 and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 2.
Row 3: ch 3 (first dc/tr of rnd), 2 dc/tr into ch-1 sp, ch 1, work corners as follows: *3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * 2 more times, work last corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 3 and weave in yarn ends at back of work.
Half Granny Square (see crochet chart II)
Using color 1, ch 6, join with a sl st into first ch st.
Row 1: ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work 3 dc/tr, ch 3, 3 dc/tr, ch 1 and 1 dc/tr into circle. Cut yarn.
Row 2: Join color 2 with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of previous rnd, ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, work corners as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1 and 1 dc/tr at the end of rnd. Cut yarn.
Row 3: Join color 3 with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of previous rnd, 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp of previous rnd, 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, work corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, * 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * once more and 1 dc/tr at the end of rnd. Cut yarn.
Weave in yarn ends at back of work
Crochet half and complete Granny Squares as described above and in the last rnd, join the next half/complete Granny Square to the Granny Square, as shown in picture III. Crochet the Granny Squares acc to color combination A or B, following crochet chart IV(IV)V(V). Note: the Granny Squares can also be sewn together at the end.
When all parts (half and complete Granny Squares) for the sleeves are joined together, work sleeve cuff as follows:
With RS facing, using the smaller size ndls and color Nature, PUK 38(38)38(38) sts along bottom edge of sleeve and work ribbed cuff in 2/2 ribbing back and forth (in RS- and WS rows) for 5(6)5(6) cm / 2(2.4)2(2.4)”. BO all sts in pattern.
Work ribbed cuff for second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Join sleeves to cable pattern of front- and back, using backstitches (pay attention to the red arrows in chart). The sleeve is sewn to front and back part at a distance of 1 st from the armhole edge, so 1 whole knit st remains visible on the cable pattern. Close sleeve seams.
Neckline border: place the 58(58)62(62) held sts of back part onto the short circ. ndl, PUK 12(12)12(12) sts along sleeve edge, place the 58(58)62(62) held sts of front part back onto ndl and PUK 12(12)12(12) sts along edge of second sleeve = 140(140)148(148) sts.
Work in 2/2 ribbing and at the same time, continue working cable pattern, as follows: k1, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 6(6)7(7) more times and work cable pattern over 13 sts. k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 2 more times, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 6(6)7(7) more times, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * once more, p2 and k1.
Continue working as set, until neckline border measures 10 cm / 4”, then BO all rib pattern sts in pattern and BO the cable pattern sts knitwise.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
psso = pass slipped stitch over
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
Kettmasche (Kettm) = slip stitch (sl st)
Luftmasce (LM) = chain stitch (ch)
Stäbchen (Stb) = US double crochet (dc) / UK treble (tr)
Häkelschrift = crochet chart
Diagramm = Chart
Reihen 1-8 wiederholen = Rep rows 1-8
13 M Zopfmuster = cable pattern of 13 sts
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements
Chest circumference: 92(100)108(116) cm / 36(39)42(46)”
Length of sweater from lowest part of neckline to hem: 58(60)62(64) cm / 23(23.5)24.5(25)”
Underarm length: 45(46)49(50) cm / 17.7(18)19.3(19.7)”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stich patterns: 2/2 Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from * across. Stockinette st in the round: knit all sts. Stockinette st worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Cable pattern: work acc to written instructions and chart. 2/2 Ribbing worked flat: RS: *k2, p2, rep from * across, in the following rows, work the sts as they appear.
Crochet stitches (Note: when US terms differ from UK terms, both terms are listed, divided by”/”. First US then UK): chain stitch (ch), US double crochet (dc) / UK treble (tr) and slip stitch (sc), work acc to written instructions and crochet chart.
Gauge/Tension: 18 sts and 26 rows, worked in st st using larger size ndls = 10 cm / 4”, size of 1 Granny Square = 8 x 8 cm / 3.2 x 3.2”
Needles: Novita 80 cm/32" circular needles size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) and 4.5–5 mm (US 7/UK 7 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge, a short (40 cm/16") Novita circular needle size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) for neckline border and a Novita crochet hook size 4–5 mm (US 6/UK 8 – US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge.
Stich patterns: 2/2 Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from * across. Stockinette st in the round: knit all sts. Stockinette st worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Cable pattern: work acc to written instructions and chart. 2/2 Ribbing worked flat: RS: *k2, p2, rep from * across, in the following rows, work the sts as they appear.
Crochet stitches (Note: when US terms differ from UK terms, both terms are listed, divided by”/”. First US then UK): chain stitch (ch), US double crochet (dc) / UK treble (tr) and slip stitch (sc), work acc to written instructions and crochet chart.
Gauge/Tension: 18 sts and 26 rows, worked in st st using larger size ndls = 10 cm / 4”, size of 1 Granny Square = 8 x 8 cm / 3.2 x 3.2”
Lower part of body, front and back
The body is worked in the round from the bottom up to the armholes.
CO 168(184)200(212) sts using color Nature and smaller size ndls and work in 2/2 ribbing for 6 cm / 2.4”.
Change to larger size circ. ndls and continue working in st st in the round. When work measures approx. 36(38)34,5(36,5) cm / 14.2(15)13.6(14.4)”, knit the first 84(92)100(106) sts of the round for front part and CO 15 new sts at the end of this row, for cable pattern. Turn work and place the rem 84(92)100(106) sts for back part on hold.
Front, upper part
Continue working the front-sts back and forth. Work next WS row, as follows: k1, p1, k2, p9, k2, then p to end of row. At the end of the row, CO 15 new sts and turn work. There are now 114(122)130(136) sts on the ndl.
Continue working Raglan dec’s and at the same time, work cable pattern acc to chart, starting at row 1 of chart: RS rows: k2, work cable patt over 13 sts acc to chart, skp (sl1 knitwise, k1, psso), k to last 17 sts, k2tog, work cable patt over 13 sts acc to chart, k2.
In WS rows, knit first and last st, work rows 2-8 off cable patt, then rep rows 1-8, p all rem sts.
Work the raglan dec’s as described above in every RS row a total of 28(28)34(34) times = 58(66)62(68) sts.
In the last WS row, dec 0(8)0(6) sts evenly spaced = 58(58)62(62) sts.
Place rem sts on hold.
Back, upper part
Work in same way as described for upper part for front.
Sleeves
The sleeves are made from crocheted Granny Squares:
Color combination A:
Row 1: (010) Nature, Row 2: (295) Milk Cap and Row 3: (372) Mugwort
For sizes XS/S- and M: crochet 13 complete Granny Squares and 4 half Granny Squares.
For sizes L- and XL: crochet 16 complete Granny Squares and 5 half Granny Squares.
Color combination B:
Row 1: (295) Milk Cap, Row 2: (372) Mugwort and Row 3: (010) Nature
For sizes XS/S- and M: crochet 16 complete Granny Squares,
For sizes L- and XL: crochet 18 complete Granny Squares.
Granny Square (see crochet chart I)
Using color 1, ch 6, join with a sl st into first ch st.
Row 1: ch 3 (first dc/tr of rnd), work 2 dc/tr, *ch 3, 3 dc/tr, rep from * 2 more times and ch 3 into circle. Join color 2 and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 1.
Row 2: ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work corners as follows: *3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp, rep from * 2 more times, work last corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 2 dc/tr into ch-3 sp. Join color 3 and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 2.
Row 3: ch 3 (first dc/tr of rnd), 2 dc/tr into ch-1 sp, ch 1, work corners as follows: *3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * 2 more times, work last corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp and join rnd with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of rnd. Cut color 3 and weave in yarn ends at back of work.
Half Granny Square (see crochet chart II)
Using color 1, ch 6, join with a sl st into first ch st.
Row 1: ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work 3 dc/tr, ch 3, 3 dc/tr, ch 1 and 1 dc/tr into circle. Cut yarn.
Row 2: Join color 2 with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of previous rnd, ch 4 (first dc/tr of rnd + ch 1), work 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, work corners as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1 and 1 dc/tr at the end of rnd. Cut yarn.
Row 3: Join color 3 with a sl st into 3rd ch st of beg of previous rnd, 3 dc/tr into ch-1 sp of previous rnd, 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, work corner as follows: 3 dc/tr + ch 3 + 3 dc/tr into ch-3 sp of previous rnd, ch 1, * 3 dc/tr into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * once more and 1 dc/tr at the end of rnd. Cut yarn.
Weave in yarn ends at back of work
Crochet half and complete Granny Squares as described above and in the last rnd, join the next half/complete Granny Square to the Granny Square, as shown in picture III. Crochet the Granny Squares acc to color combination A or B, following crochet chart IV(IV)V(V). Note: the Granny Squares can also be sewn together at the end.
When all parts (half and complete Granny Squares) for the sleeves are joined together, work sleeve cuff as follows:
With RS facing, using the smaller size ndls and color Nature, PUK 38(38)38(38) sts along bottom edge of sleeve and work ribbed cuff in 2/2 ribbing back and forth (in RS- and WS rows) for 5(6)5(6) cm / 2(2.4)2(2.4)”. BO all sts in pattern.
Work ribbed cuff for second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Join sleeves to cable pattern of front- and back, using backstitches (pay attention to the red arrows in chart). The sleeve is sewn to front and back part at a distance of 1 st from the armhole edge, so 1 whole knit st remains visible on the cable pattern. Close sleeve seams.
Neckline border: place the 58(58)62(62) held sts of back part onto the short circ. ndl, PUK 12(12)12(12) sts along sleeve edge, place the 58(58)62(62) held sts of front part back onto ndl and PUK 12(12)12(12) sts along edge of second sleeve = 140(140)148(148) sts.
Work in 2/2 ribbing and at the same time, continue working cable pattern, as follows: k1, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 6(6)7(7) more times and work cable pattern over 13 sts. k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 2 more times, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * 6(6)7(7) more times, work cable pattern over 13 sts, k2, *p2, k2, rep from * once more, p2 and k1.
Continue working as set, until neckline border measures 10 cm / 4”, then BO all rib pattern sts in pattern and BO the cable pattern sts knitwise.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
psso = pass slipped stitch over
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
Kettmasche (Kettm) = slip stitch (sl st)
Luftmasce (LM) = chain stitch (ch)
Stäbchen (Stb) = US double crochet (dc) / UK treble (tr)
Häkelschrift = crochet chart
Diagramm = Chart
Reihen 1-8 wiederholen = Rep rows 1-8
13 M Zopfmuster = cable pattern of 13 sts
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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