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Novita 7 Veljestä: Lumihiutaleiden tanssi (Dance of the Snowflakes) socks

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The dainty cables and bobbles of the Lumihiutaleiden tanssi socks were inspired by the Waltz of the Snowflakes in the Nutcracker ballet. The socks are knitted top-down using Novita 7 Veljestä.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 16
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Lumihiutaleiden tanssi (Dance of the Snowflakes) socks

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Lumihiutaleiden tanssi (Dance of the Snowflakes) socks
Novita 7 Veljestä: Lumihiutaleiden tanssi (Dance of the Snowflakes) socks

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N042116
    Pattern details
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (047) Lichen 200 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) or size needed



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Cast on 63 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the side of the sock.

    Begin the rib pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 7 times. Keep repeating row 2 of the chart until the ribbing measures 4.5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 3 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 7 times. Work rows 4–10, then repeat rows 3–10 five times (the leg now measures approx. 23 cm).

    Work row 11 of the chart: work section A (= 9 sts), repeat section B 3 times (= 27 sts), work section C (= 9 sts), work section D 2 times (= 18 sts). Work rows 12–23 of the chart. 47 sts on the needles.

    At the beginning of the next round, work 1 purl st onto needle IV. Knit the next 24 sts onto needle I for the heel flap. Leave the other sts on hold. With these sts, work stockinette st flat for 23 rows. Finish with the WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: Work the RS row until 9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the middle. Knit the 4 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Knit the 4 left-hand heel sts (needle I). Using a free needle, pick up 12 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. With the 23 sts on needles II and III, work row 24 of the chart. Using the needle with 4 sts, pick up 12 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4 heel sts onto needle IV. 57 sts on the needles.

    On needles I and IV, work stockinette st; on needles II and III, work rows 25–31 of the chart. At the same time begin gusset decreases: At the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 47 sts remain.

    After row 31 of the chart, repeat rows 24–31 four more times (the sole measures approx. 21 cm).

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; on needles II and III, work row 32 of the chart; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on needles I and IV on every other round once more and then 8 times on every row. On needles II and III, decrease following the chart. 8 sts on the needles. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Cable and rib pattern in the round: follow the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge 20 sts in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in; 21 sts in cable pattern, lightly stretched = 10 cm / 4 in



    Cast on 63 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the side of the sock.

    Begin the rib pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 7 times. Keep repeating row 2 of the chart until the ribbing measures 4.5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 3 of the chart. Repeat the 9 st pattern 7 times. Work rows 4–10, then repeat rows 3–10 five times (the leg now measures approx. 23 cm).

    Work row 11 of the chart: work section A (= 9 sts), repeat section B 3 times (= 27 sts), work section C (= 9 sts), work section D 2 times (= 18 sts). Work rows 12–23 of the chart. 47 sts on the needles.

    At the beginning of the next round, work 1 purl st onto needle IV. Knit the next 24 sts onto needle I for the heel flap. Leave the other sts on hold. With these sts, work stockinette st flat for 23 rows. Finish with the WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: Work the RS row until 9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the middle. Knit the 4 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Knit the 4 left-hand heel sts (needle I). Using a free needle, pick up 12 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. With the 23 sts on needles II and III, work row 24 of the chart. Using the needle with 4 sts, pick up 12 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4 heel sts onto needle IV. 57 sts on the needles.

    On needles I and IV, work stockinette st; on needles II and III, work rows 25–31 of the chart. At the same time begin gusset decreases: At the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 47 sts remain.

    After row 31 of the chart, repeat rows 24–31 four more times (the sole measures approx. 21 cm).

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; on needles II and III, work row 32 of the chart; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on needles I and IV on every other round once more and then 8 times on every row. On needles II and III, decrease following the chart. 8 sts on the needles. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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