Novita 7 Veljestä: Hellä-cable socks

As low as €11.90

The delicate Hellä (Finnish for loving, tender) cable socks are worked with the Finns’ favorite yarn, Novita 7 Veljestä. The delicate cable pattern invites you to spend a quiet day at home surrounded by your favorite objects. The Hellä socks are worked from the cuff down to the toe.
Novita Kevät 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
18
Intermediate
Customize Novita 7 Veljestä: Hellä-cable socks

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    €11.90

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    Availability: In stock

    N012218
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (060) Sand 200 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles: Novita dpns size 3.5 mm (US 4 / UK 10 or 9) or needle size necessary to fit gauge



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    CO 64 sts and distribute the sts evenly over 4 dpns, 16 sts per dpn. Beg of rnd lies between dpn I and IV, mid back.

    Work 13 cm / 5.1” in 2/2 ribbing, as follows: *p1, k2, p1, rep from * to end of rnd.

    In the next rnd, continue working in 6/2 ribbing and work rnd 1 of the cable pattern mid front, acc to chart, as follows: *k3, p2, k3, rep from * once more, k3, p2, k2, work cable pattern over 18 sts, k2, p2, k3, **k3, p2, k3, rep from ** once more. Work rows 2-21 of cable pattern, then work rows 22-37.

    Rep rows 22-37 and at the same time, when the shaft measures approx. 28 cm / 11”, start decreasing in rnd 28 of patt rep, as follows:

    Decrease-rnd 1: k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the last 3 sts, skp, k1 = 62 sts.

    Work 4 rounds without dec’s.

    Decrease-rnd 2: k2tog, work in pattern to the last 2 sts, skp = 60 sts.

    Work 4 rounds without dec’s.

    Decrease-rnd 3: k1, p2, skp, work in pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p2 and k1 = 58 sts.

    Rep decrease-rnd 3 every 4th rnd 3 more times. There are now 52 sts on the ndls and rnd 35 of the cable pattern was worked.

    Work 1 rnd without dec’s and redistribute the sts over the 4 dpns, as follows: dpn I 14 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 12 sts and dpn IV 14 sts. Work next rnd to the last 14 sts, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog and k1.

    Start working the heel flap, work all sts of dpn I onto dpn IV, as follows: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog and k7. The heel flap now has 24 sts. Work back and forth in st st over these 24 sts, for 23 rows, end with a WS row.

    In the next RS row, start decreasing for heel shaping, as follows: k to the last 9 sts, skp, turn work, sl1, p6, p2tog, turn work. sl1, k to the last 8 sts, skp. Continue working as set, decreasing sts on each side, until only the center 8 sts remain. Distribute these 8 sts over 2 dpns, 4 sts per dpn. Knit 4 sts. Beg of rnd now lies in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock.

     Along left side of heel, pick up 12 sts + 1 st between the heel and the next dpn using a spare dpn. Knit 4 heel-sts and knit the picked up sts tbl. Work the 24 sts of dpn II and III in pattern as set, work rnd 22 of cable pattern. Along right side of heel, pick up 12 sts + 1 st between dpn III and the heel, using the dpn that only holds 4 heel-sts, knit the picked up sts tbl and then k the 4 heel-sts. There are now 58 sts on the ndls.

    Slip 2 sts from dpn II onto dpn I and slip 2 sts from dpn III onto dpn IV and start working dec’s for the gusset, as follows: k2tog at the end of dpn I and skp at the beg of dpn IV. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd, until 48 sts rem. Distribute these sts evenly over the 4 dpns, 12 sts per dpn.

    Work rnds 22-37 of cable patt on the instep of  the foot 2 times, then work rnds 22-29 once (the length of the foot is approx. 21 cm  / 8.3”), subsequently, continue working rnd 30 of cable pattern and at the same time, start decreasing for the band-toe, as follows: k2tog at the end of dpns I and III and skp at the beg of dpns II and IV skp. Work rnds 31-41 of cable pattern and rep the dec’s in every 2nd rnd, 3 more times, then work the dec’s in every rnd, 5 more times. There are now 12 sts on the ndls. Cut yarn, thread yarn end through rem sts, pull tight and secure at the inside.

     

    Work the second sock in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

     

    Abbreviations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    CN = cable needle

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    est. = established

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 sts together

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    p2tog = purl 2 sts together

    patt = pattern

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    sl = slip

    sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    RS = right side

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    tbl = through back loop

    WS = wrong side

     

    Translations charts and legends:

    1 M re = k1

    1 M li = p1

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k2 from CN

    1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = C2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k1 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/2L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k2, k2 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/2R: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k2 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M li und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = T2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, p1, k2 from CN

    1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M li = T2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, p1 from CN

    Diagramm = Chart

    18 M Zopfmusterrapport = 18 sts cable patter repeat

     

     

    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns: 2/2 ribbing in the round: *p1, k2, p1, rep from *. Cable pattern in the round: work acc to written instructions and chart. 6/2 ribbing in the round: *k6, p2, rep from *. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all sts. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows.

    Gauge/Tension: 21 sts in st st = 10 x 10 cm / 4” square, the width of the cable pattern (18 sts) is approx. 6,5 cm / 2.6” and the height (16 rows) is approx. 6 cm / 2.4”



    CO 64 sts and distribute the sts evenly over 4 dpns, 16 sts per dpn. Beg of rnd lies between dpn I and IV, mid back.

    Work 13 cm / 5.1” in 2/2 ribbing, as follows: *p1, k2, p1, rep from * to end of rnd.

    In the next rnd, continue working in 6/2 ribbing and work rnd 1 of the cable pattern mid front, acc to chart, as follows: *k3, p2, k3, rep from * once more, k3, p2, k2, work cable pattern over 18 sts, k2, p2, k3, **k3, p2, k3, rep from ** once more. Work rows 2-21 of cable pattern, then work rows 22-37.

    Rep rows 22-37 and at the same time, when the shaft measures approx. 28 cm / 11”, start decreasing in rnd 28 of patt rep, as follows:

    Decrease-rnd 1: k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the last 3 sts, skp, k1 = 62 sts.

    Work 4 rounds without dec’s.

    Decrease-rnd 2: k2tog, work in pattern to the last 2 sts, skp = 60 sts.

    Work 4 rounds without dec’s.

    Decrease-rnd 3: k1, p2, skp, work in pattern to the last 5 sts, k2tog, p2 and k1 = 58 sts.

    Rep decrease-rnd 3 every 4th rnd 3 more times. There are now 52 sts on the ndls and rnd 35 of the cable pattern was worked.

    Work 1 rnd without dec’s and redistribute the sts over the 4 dpns, as follows: dpn I 14 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 12 sts and dpn IV 14 sts. Work next rnd to the last 14 sts, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog and k1.

    Start working the heel flap, work all sts of dpn I onto dpn IV, as follows: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog and k7. The heel flap now has 24 sts. Work back and forth in st st over these 24 sts, for 23 rows, end with a WS row.

    In the next RS row, start decreasing for heel shaping, as follows: k to the last 9 sts, skp, turn work, sl1, p6, p2tog, turn work. sl1, k to the last 8 sts, skp. Continue working as set, decreasing sts on each side, until only the center 8 sts remain. Distribute these 8 sts over 2 dpns, 4 sts per dpn. Knit 4 sts. Beg of rnd now lies in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock.

     Along left side of heel, pick up 12 sts + 1 st between the heel and the next dpn using a spare dpn. Knit 4 heel-sts and knit the picked up sts tbl. Work the 24 sts of dpn II and III in pattern as set, work rnd 22 of cable pattern. Along right side of heel, pick up 12 sts + 1 st between dpn III and the heel, using the dpn that only holds 4 heel-sts, knit the picked up sts tbl and then k the 4 heel-sts. There are now 58 sts on the ndls.

    Slip 2 sts from dpn II onto dpn I and slip 2 sts from dpn III onto dpn IV and start working dec’s for the gusset, as follows: k2tog at the end of dpn I and skp at the beg of dpn IV. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd, until 48 sts rem. Distribute these sts evenly over the 4 dpns, 12 sts per dpn.

    Work rnds 22-37 of cable patt on the instep of  the foot 2 times, then work rnds 22-29 once (the length of the foot is approx. 21 cm  / 8.3”), subsequently, continue working rnd 30 of cable pattern and at the same time, start decreasing for the band-toe, as follows: k2tog at the end of dpns I and III and skp at the beg of dpns II and IV skp. Work rnds 31-41 of cable pattern and rep the dec’s in every 2nd rnd, 3 more times, then work the dec’s in every rnd, 5 more times. There are now 12 sts on the ndls. Cut yarn, thread yarn end through rem sts, pull tight and secure at the inside.

     

    Work the second sock in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

     

    Abbreviations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    CN = cable needle

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    est. = established

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 sts together

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    p2tog = purl 2 sts together

    patt = pattern

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    sl = slip

    sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    RS = right side

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    tbl = through back loop

    WS = wrong side

     

    Translations charts and legends:

    1 M re = k1

    1 M li = p1

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k2 from CN

    1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = C2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k1 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/2L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k2, k2 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = C2/2R: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k2 from CN

    2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M li und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = T2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, p1, k2 from CN

    1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M li = T2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, p1 from CN

    Diagramm = Chart

    18 M Zopfmusterrapport = 18 sts cable patter repeat

     

     


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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