Novita 7 Veljestä: Helena-Patchwork cardigan

As low as €5.95

The crocheted Helena patchwork cardigan is the uniform of the bohemian, the artist. The jacket crocheted with Novita 7 Veljestä yarn is a perfect leftover yarn project.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
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    Availability: In stock

    N02229
    Size
    XS/S(M)L

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (330) Artichoke 350(400)450 g

    (563) Knapweed 250(300)350 g

    (010) Naturel White 250(250)300 g

    (691) Peat 250(250)300 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Crochet hook: Novita 4–4.5 mm (US 6 - 7/UK 8 - 7) or size needed to fit gauge



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Color combination of a complete square:

    Color combination 1 (21 pcs): Row 1: Naturel White, Row 2: Peat, Row 3: Artichoke and rows 4-5(6)6: Knapweed.

    Color combination 2 (26 pcs): Row 1: Peat, Row 2: Artichoke, Row 3: Knapweed and rows 4-5(6)6: Naturel White.

    Color combination 3 (21 pcs): Row 1: Artichoke, Row 2: Knapweed, Row 3: Naturel White and rows 4-5(6)6: Peat.

    Color combination 4 (18 pcs): Row 1: Knapweed, Row 2: Naturel White, Row 3: Peat and rows 4-5(6)6: Artichoke.

     

    Half square:

    Color combination 1 (4 pcs at front edge) as described for complete square.

    Color combination 3 (6 pcs at front edge) as described for complete square.

    Color combination 4 (8 pcs at bottom border and neckline) as described for complete square.

     

    Instructions for complete square (see crochet chart I)

    Using first color, ch 6 and join with 1 sl st into first ch st, to form a ring.

    Row 1: ch 1 and 12 sc into ring, join rnd with 1 sl st into first ch st. Cut yarn.

    Row 2: Join second color with 1 sl st into first sc and then work ch 4 (=1st dc). Crochet 1 tr into same st and then 2 tr into next 2 sts of previous rnd = 24 tr, join rnd with 1 sl st into first ch st. Cut yarn.

    Row 3: Join third color with 1 sl st between first 2 dc. Crochet ch 2 and 2 dc into base of chain stitch-chain, *ch 3, dc3tog between 2 pairs of tr, rep from * 10 more times and ch 3. Join rnd with 1 sl st into second ch st of beg of rnd. Cut yarn.

    Join fourth color with 1 sl st and work acc to rows 4-5 of crochet chart.

    For size M: 1 sc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 sc + ch 2 + 2 sc.

    Size L: 1 dc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc.

    Cut yarn.

     

    Instructions for half square (see crochet chart II)

    Using first color, ch 6 and join with 1 sl st into first ch st, to form a ring.

    Row 1: ch 1 and 7 sc into ring. Cut yarn.

    Row 2: Join second color with 1 sl st into first sc and start with ch 4 (= 1st tr). Crochet 1 tr into same st and then 2 tr into next 2 sts of previous rnd = 14 tr. Cut yarn.

    Row 3: Join third color with 1 sl st into last tr. ch 4, *dc3tog between 1 pair of tr, ch 3, rep from * 4 more times, dc3tog between 1 pair of tr, ch 1 and 1 dc at the end of the rnd. Cut yarn.

    Join fourth color with 1 sl st into last dc of previous rnd and work acc to rows 4-5 of crochet chart.

    For size M: 1 sc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 sc + ch 2 + 2 sc.

    Size L: 1 dc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc.

    Cut yarn.

     

    Joining the squares

    Lightly steam the squares into shape. Join the squares acc to schematic drawing. Place parts with their RS together and sew together, by stitching the back loops together stitch by stitch.

    Using color Artichoke, crochet sc around the outer edges of the cardigan, as follows: join yarn with 1 sl st at the bottom right, at the corner of a square . Crochet 22 sc into the edge of a half square (10 sc on both sides and 2 sc in the center). Between 2 squares, work a dc or a tr, instead of an sc, to even out the border. Continue crocheting as set, working 22 sc per square and at the vertical button band, work 18 sc per square. Crochet 22 sc per square at the back neckline and at the second button band, crochet in the same way as described for first button band.

    Continue crocheting in spirals, i.e. working in the round in a continuous manner, without joining the separate rounds with a slip stitch. Work 1 sc into each sc of previous rnd, always crochet into back loop. At the outer corners, work 3 sc into 1 st, at corners at neckline 2 sc into 1 st and at inside corners sc3tog.

    Crochet a total of 8 rnds as set and subsequently, crochet 1 rnd of sl st. Cut yarn.

    At the ends of the sleeves, crochet 15 sc on each square and apart from that, crochet as described for the button bands. Cut yarn.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the cardigan into shape.

    Finished dimensions

    Finished measurements:

    Chest circumference: 90(100)108 cm / 35.4(39.4)42.5”

    Total length: 90(102)108 cm / 35.4(40.2)42.5”+ button bands

    Sleeve length from neckline to sleeve cuff edge: 69(75)81 cm / 27.2(29.5)32” + button bands



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Crochet stitches: chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), treble (tr) and slip stitch (sl st) work acc to crochet chart and written instructions.

    Note: this pattern is written in US crochet terms. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you used to the UK terms!

    Gauge/Tension: square XS/S 11,5 x 11,5 cm/4.5” square, square M 12,5 x 12,5/4.9” square and square L 13,5 x 13,5 cm/5.3” square



    Color combination of a complete square:

    Color combination 1 (21 pcs): Row 1: Naturel White, Row 2: Peat, Row 3: Artichoke and rows 4-5(6)6: Knapweed.

    Color combination 2 (26 pcs): Row 1: Peat, Row 2: Artichoke, Row 3: Knapweed and rows 4-5(6)6: Naturel White.

    Color combination 3 (21 pcs): Row 1: Artichoke, Row 2: Knapweed, Row 3: Naturel White and rows 4-5(6)6: Peat.

    Color combination 4 (18 pcs): Row 1: Knapweed, Row 2: Naturel White, Row 3: Peat and rows 4-5(6)6: Artichoke.

     

    Half square:

    Color combination 1 (4 pcs at front edge) as described for complete square.

    Color combination 3 (6 pcs at front edge) as described for complete square.

    Color combination 4 (8 pcs at bottom border and neckline) as described for complete square.

     

    Instructions for complete square (see crochet chart I)

    Using first color, ch 6 and join with 1 sl st into first ch st, to form a ring.

    Row 1: ch 1 and 12 sc into ring, join rnd with 1 sl st into first ch st. Cut yarn.

    Row 2: Join second color with 1 sl st into first sc and then work ch 4 (=1st dc). Crochet 1 tr into same st and then 2 tr into next 2 sts of previous rnd = 24 tr, join rnd with 1 sl st into first ch st. Cut yarn.

    Row 3: Join third color with 1 sl st between first 2 dc. Crochet ch 2 and 2 dc into base of chain stitch-chain, *ch 3, dc3tog between 2 pairs of tr, rep from * 10 more times and ch 3. Join rnd with 1 sl st into second ch st of beg of rnd. Cut yarn.

    Join fourth color with 1 sl st and work acc to rows 4-5 of crochet chart.

    For size M: 1 sc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 sc + ch 2 + 2 sc.

    Size L: 1 dc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc.

    Cut yarn.

     

    Instructions for half square (see crochet chart II)

    Using first color, ch 6 and join with 1 sl st into first ch st, to form a ring.

    Row 1: ch 1 and 7 sc into ring. Cut yarn.

    Row 2: Join second color with 1 sl st into first sc and start with ch 4 (= 1st tr). Crochet 1 tr into same st and then 2 tr into next 2 sts of previous rnd = 14 tr. Cut yarn.

    Row 3: Join third color with 1 sl st into last tr. ch 4, *dc3tog between 1 pair of tr, ch 3, rep from * 4 more times, dc3tog between 1 pair of tr, ch 1 and 1 dc at the end of the rnd. Cut yarn.

    Join fourth color with 1 sl st into last dc of previous rnd and work acc to rows 4-5 of crochet chart.

    For size M: 1 sc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 sc + ch 2 + 2 sc.

    Size L: 1 dc into each st of previous rnd and at the corners 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc.

    Cut yarn.

     

    Joining the squares

    Lightly steam the squares into shape. Join the squares acc to schematic drawing. Place parts with their RS together and sew together, by stitching the back loops together stitch by stitch.

    Using color Artichoke, crochet sc around the outer edges of the cardigan, as follows: join yarn with 1 sl st at the bottom right, at the corner of a square . Crochet 22 sc into the edge of a half square (10 sc on both sides and 2 sc in the center). Between 2 squares, work a dc or a tr, instead of an sc, to even out the border. Continue crocheting as set, working 22 sc per square and at the vertical button band, work 18 sc per square. Crochet 22 sc per square at the back neckline and at the second button band, crochet in the same way as described for first button band.

    Continue crocheting in spirals, i.e. working in the round in a continuous manner, without joining the separate rounds with a slip stitch. Work 1 sc into each sc of previous rnd, always crochet into back loop. At the outer corners, work 3 sc into 1 st, at corners at neckline 2 sc into 1 st and at inside corners sc3tog.

    Crochet a total of 8 rnds as set and subsequently, crochet 1 rnd of sl st. Cut yarn.

    At the ends of the sleeves, crochet 15 sc on each square and apart from that, crochet as described for the button bands. Cut yarn.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the cardigan into shape.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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