Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita 7 Veljestä: Artisokka-Wool socks
As low as €6.96
A cable pattern like artichoke hearts! Artisokka wool socks (Finnish for Artichoke) bring a little Mediterranean feeling and the cable pattern is nice and exciting. These socks were knitted with Novita 7 Veljestä yarn, in the color Veil, from the color collection developed together with designer Niina Laitinen.
Novita Kevät 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
41
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N012241
Size
Yksi kokoYarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä
(724) Veil 200 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita dpns size 3.5 mm (US 4 / UK 10 or 9) or needle size necessary to fit gauge and a cable needle
Designer
Niina LaitinenShaft
CO 67 sts and divide sts over dpns, as follows: dpn I 22 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 22 sts. Beg of rnd lies between dpn I and IV, mid back.
Continue working cable pattern acc to chart I, rnd 1 and work in pattern over the 67 sts. Work rows 2-93 and work the calf decreases where marked in the chart. After finishing all dec’s, 49 sts rem. Redistribute all sts over 4 dpns, as follows: dpn I 13 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 13 sts.
Heel
Start working the heel-flap, work all sts of dpn I onto dpn IV (= 26 sts). Place the rem sts on hold. Turn work, sl1, p the rem sts and at the same time, dec 2 sts evenly spaced. There are now 24 sts for the heel-flap. Work the reinforced heel pattern, as follows:
Row 1: (RS) turn work, *sl1 wyib, k1, rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: (WS) turn work, sl1 wyif, p the rem sts.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 12 times, the length of the heel flap is now 24 rows, and end with a WS row.
Start decreasing for heel shaping, and continue working the reinforced heel pattern, as follows: In the next RS row, knit to the last 9 sts, ssk (sl 1 st knitwise, sl 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto LH ndl and knit together tbl), turn work, sl1, p6, p2tog, turn work. sl1, k to the last 8 sts, ssk. Continue working as set, decreasing sts on each side, until only the 8 center sts rem. Distribute these 8 sts over 2 dpns, 4 sts per dpn. Knit the 4 sts of the RH ndl. Beg of rnd now lies in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock.
Gusset
Pick up 14 sts, along left side of heel, knit 4 heel-sts and knit the picked-up sts tbl. Work row 7 of chart II over the 23 sts on dpn II and III. Along right side of heel, pick up 14 sts, using the dpn, that holds 4 heel-sts, knit the picked-up sts tbl and knit the 4 heel-sts. There are now 59 sts on the ndls.
Work gusset-decreases, as follows: on dpn I, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, work row 8 of chart II on dpns II and III, then ssk at the beg of dpn IV, k to end of rnd. Continue working the sts of dpns I and IV in st st, work the sts of dpns II and III acc to chart II, rows 9-12, then rep rows 1-12, and at the same time, rep the dec’s on dpns I and IV as described, every 2nd rnd, until only 47 sts rem: dpn I 12 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 12 sts.
When a total of 45 rnds have been worked, after the heel-turn, and ending with row 3 of chart II, start decreasing for the toe (wide band-toe), as follows:
dpn I: k to the last 3 sts, k2tog and k1.
dpns II and III: work acc to chart III, row 1 (23-2 sts = 21 sts).
dpn IV: k1, ssk k to end of rnd.
Rep these dec’s on dpns I and IV, as described above, 2 more times in every 2nd rnd, then in every rnd 7 times and on dpns II and III work rows 2-12 of chart III. When all dec’s are finished, only 9 sts rem.
Cut yarn and thread yarn end through the rem sts, pull tight and secure at the inside.
Work the second sock in the same way.
Finishing
Weave in all ends and lightly steam the socks.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
cdd = centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 sts together
patt = pattern
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
RH = right hand
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
tbl = through back loop
wyib = with yarn in back
wyif = with yarn in front
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations of charts and legend:
1 M re = k1
1 M li = p1
3 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = C3/3L: sl 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = C3/3R: sl 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = = C2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k2 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = C2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M li und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = T2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, p1, k2 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M li = = T2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, p1 from CN
ssk (slip slip knit): 1 M ungestrickt re abheben. 2. M ungestrickt abheben. Beide M zurück auf die linke Nadel schieben und verschränkt durch das hintere Maschenglied zusammenstricken = ssk: slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd: centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
M verschränkt, also durch hinteres Maschenglied, stricken = k1 tbl: a twisted knit st (knit 1 st through back loop)
Diagramm = Chart
Nadel = needle
M = sts
Finished dimensions
""Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: 2/2 ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from *. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all sts.
Gauge/Tension: 20 sts and 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4” square
Tip: Making the socks bigger is easy. You can easily increase the calf circumference by knitting more sts at the back (according to the instructions, the calf circumference is approx. 35-40 cm / 13.8-15.8”). The foot can be made longer by starting the lace pattern later than recommended in the pattern.
Shaft
CO 67 sts and divide sts over dpns, as follows: dpn I 22 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 22 sts. Beg of rnd lies between dpn I and IV, mid back.
Continue working cable pattern acc to chart I, rnd 1 and work in pattern over the 67 sts. Work rows 2-93 and work the calf decreases where marked in the chart. After finishing all dec’s, 49 sts rem. Redistribute all sts over 4 dpns, as follows: dpn I 13 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 13 sts.
Heel
Start working the heel-flap, work all sts of dpn I onto dpn IV (= 26 sts). Place the rem sts on hold. Turn work, sl1, p the rem sts and at the same time, dec 2 sts evenly spaced. There are now 24 sts for the heel-flap. Work the reinforced heel pattern, as follows:
Row 1: (RS) turn work, *sl1 wyib, k1, rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: (WS) turn work, sl1 wyif, p the rem sts.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 12 times, the length of the heel flap is now 24 rows, and end with a WS row.
Start decreasing for heel shaping, and continue working the reinforced heel pattern, as follows: In the next RS row, knit to the last 9 sts, ssk (sl 1 st knitwise, sl 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto LH ndl and knit together tbl), turn work, sl1, p6, p2tog, turn work. sl1, k to the last 8 sts, ssk. Continue working as set, decreasing sts on each side, until only the 8 center sts rem. Distribute these 8 sts over 2 dpns, 4 sts per dpn. Knit the 4 sts of the RH ndl. Beg of rnd now lies in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock.
Gusset
Pick up 14 sts, along left side of heel, knit 4 heel-sts and knit the picked-up sts tbl. Work row 7 of chart II over the 23 sts on dpn II and III. Along right side of heel, pick up 14 sts, using the dpn, that holds 4 heel-sts, knit the picked-up sts tbl and knit the 4 heel-sts. There are now 59 sts on the ndls.
Work gusset-decreases, as follows: on dpn I, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, work row 8 of chart II on dpns II and III, then ssk at the beg of dpn IV, k to end of rnd. Continue working the sts of dpns I and IV in st st, work the sts of dpns II and III acc to chart II, rows 9-12, then rep rows 1-12, and at the same time, rep the dec’s on dpns I and IV as described, every 2nd rnd, until only 47 sts rem: dpn I 12 sts, dpn II 12 sts, dpn III 11 sts and dpn IV 12 sts.
When a total of 45 rnds have been worked, after the heel-turn, and ending with row 3 of chart II, start decreasing for the toe (wide band-toe), as follows:
dpn I: k to the last 3 sts, k2tog and k1.
dpns II and III: work acc to chart III, row 1 (23-2 sts = 21 sts).
dpn IV: k1, ssk k to end of rnd.
Rep these dec’s on dpns I and IV, as described above, 2 more times in every 2nd rnd, then in every rnd 7 times and on dpns II and III work rows 2-12 of chart III. When all dec’s are finished, only 9 sts rem.
Cut yarn and thread yarn end through the rem sts, pull tight and secure at the inside.
Work the second sock in the same way.
Finishing
Weave in all ends and lightly steam the socks.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
cdd = centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 sts together
patt = pattern
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
RH = right hand
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
tbl = through back loop
wyib = with yarn in back
wyif = with yarn in front
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations of charts and legend:
1 M re = k1
1 M li = p1
3 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = C3/3L: sl 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
3 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 3 M re und von Hilfsnadel 3 M re = C3/3R: sl 3 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k3, k3 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M re und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = = C2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, k1, k2 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M re = C2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 M li und von Hilfsnadel 2 M re = T2/1L: sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of the work, p1, k2 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter die Arbeit legen, 2 M re und von Hilfsnadel 1 M li = = T2/1R: sl 1 st onto CN and hold in back of the work, k2, p1 from CN
ssk (slip slip knit): 1 M ungestrickt re abheben. 2. M ungestrickt abheben. Beide M zurück auf die linke Nadel schieben und verschränkt durch das hintere Maschenglied zusammenstricken = ssk: slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd: centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
M verschränkt, also durch hinteres Maschenglied, stricken = k1 tbl: a twisted knit st (knit 1 st through back loop)
Diagramm = Chart
Nadel = needle
M = sts
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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