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Novita 7 Veljestä: Cabled dog sweater

As low as €6.90

Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä, the dog sweater is adorned by a beautiful cable pattern. The sweater includes an opening for the dog lead.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 30
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Cabled dog sweater
€5.50
€5.50
€5.50
€5.50
€5.50
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.90

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Cabled dog sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä: Cabled dog sweater

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012130
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (288) Spike or (691) Peat 150(200)200(250)250 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles and circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed to obtain gauge



    Designer
    Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)

    Details

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles or the short circular needle, cast on 68(80)88(92)100 sts and divide them across four needles. Work ribbing in the round starting with p2.

    When the ribbing measures 12(13)13(13)14 cm, make a hole for the dog lead: work the first 26(29)32(35)38 sts in ribbing, bind off the next 2 sts, work ribbing to end. Next round: work the first 26(29)32(35)38 sts in ribbing, cast on 2 sts, work ribbing to end.

    When the ribbing measures 13(14)14(14)15 cm, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V: work cable pattern [54(60)66(72)78 sts], knit remaining sts and at the same time evenly increase 8(12)16(20)24 sts. 12(14)20(26)32 sts increased, 80(94)108(118)132 sts on the needles. Keep working rows 2–9 of the cable chart. With the other sts, work stockinette st in the round.

    Note: On the next round work the 54(60)66(72)78 cable sts and the next 13(17)21(23)27 sts. Place 1st marker (the beginning of round is here, at the midpoint of the belly section), work 8(10)12(13)14 sts, place 2nd marker, work 64(74)84(92)104 sts, place 3rd marker, work remaining 8(10)12(13)14 sts. 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 64(74)84(92)104 sts in the back.

    Begin increases at the edges of the belly section: work to 2nd marker, slip marker, m1L (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to 3rd marker, m1R (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the front loop), slip marker, work to end. Repeat the increases every other row 6(7)8(11)12 more times. 94(110)126(142)158 sts on the needles: 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 78(90)102(116)130 sts in the back.

    After the last increases, work 1 round as established. Next round: work to last 2 sts before 3rd marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), remove marker, work to end. Remove the beginning of round marker. Work to 2nd marker, remove marker, k2tog,cast on 1 st for seaming. Turn work. WS: p19(23)27(29)31,cast on 1 st for seaming. Turn work. RS: k1, skp, k14(18)22(24)26, k2tog, k1.

    Leave the 74(86)98(112)126 back sts on hold. With the 18(22)26(28)30 belly sts, work stockinette st to create the front leg openings. After 8(9)10(11)12 cm, on a RS row bind off 1 st for seaming at both ends. Leave the remaining 16(20)24(26)28 sts on hold.

    Work back and forth with the 74(86)98(112)126 back sts and on the first row increase 1 st for seaming at both ends = 76(88)100(114)128 sts. On every 4th row decrease 3x1 st at both ends: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 70(82)94(108)122 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    After 7(8)9(10)11 cm with the back sts only, on a RS row work until 1 st remains. Join the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts = 86(102)118(134)150 sts. Decrease 1 st (knit together the last back st and first belly st), place marker, work 14(18)22(24)26 belly sts, place marker, decrease 1 st (work a skp decrease with the last belly st and first back st). 84(100)116(132)148 sts now on the needles. Work in the round and repeat the decreases on every other round 4 more times. 76(92)108(124)140 sts on the needles: 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 60(72)84(98)112 sts in the back.

    When you have worked 7(8)9(10)11 cm after the leg openings, leave the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts on hold and work back and forth with the 60(72)84(98)112 back sts.

    On the next RS row, begin decreases: k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every other round 5(9)15(14)17 more times.

    Continue decreasing: on the next RS row, k2, sk2p (slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 5(6)5(8)9 more times. 24(24)28(32)36 sts now on the needles.

    Finishing

    Border: Move the 24(24)28(32)36 sts onto the smaller circular needle and pick up and knit 1 st from each row at the edge of the work, knit the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts, pick up and knit 1 st from each row at the edge. Work ribbing in the round. On the first round, decrease 1 st if needed to maintain rib pattern throughout. When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, pick up and knit 36(40)44(44)48 sts from the leg opening and work ribbing in the round for 3(3)4(4)5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other leg opening in the same manner.

    Steam the dog sweater lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    chest circumference (measured at the widest point, behind the front legs) approx. 34–40(42–48)50–56(58–64)66–72 cm / 13½–15¾(16½–19)19¾–22(22¾–25¼)26–28¼ in

    back (measured from withers to base of tail, with the dog in standing position) approx. 30(38)44(50)56 cm / 11¾(15)17¼(19¾)22 in

    Note: The pictured dachshund sweater is knitted using the number of sts for size M. After the leg openings, work 18 cm instead of 9 cm before you decrease.



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions.

    Gauge 18 sts and 27 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in; width of cable pattern [54(60)66(72)78 sts] approx. 18(20)22(24)26 cm / 7(7¾)8¾(9½)10¼ in

    Note The sweater is knitted in the round from neckline to hem.



    Using the smaller double-pointed needles or the short circular needle, cast on 68(80)88(92)100 sts and divide them across four needles. Work ribbing in the round starting with p2.

    When the ribbing measures 12(13)13(13)14 cm, make a hole for the dog lead: work the first 26(29)32(35)38 sts in ribbing, bind off the next 2 sts, work ribbing to end. Next round: work the first 26(29)32(35)38 sts in ribbing, cast on 2 sts, work ribbing to end.

    When the ribbing measures 13(14)14(14)15 cm, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V: work cable pattern [54(60)66(72)78 sts], knit remaining sts and at the same time evenly increase 8(12)16(20)24 sts. 12(14)20(26)32 sts increased, 80(94)108(118)132 sts on the needles. Keep working rows 2–9 of the cable chart. With the other sts, work stockinette st in the round.

    Note: On the next round work the 54(60)66(72)78 cable sts and the next 13(17)21(23)27 sts. Place 1st marker (the beginning of round is here, at the midpoint of the belly section), work 8(10)12(13)14 sts, place 2nd marker, work 64(74)84(92)104 sts, place 3rd marker, work remaining 8(10)12(13)14 sts. 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 64(74)84(92)104 sts in the back.

    Begin increases at the edges of the belly section: work to 2nd marker, slip marker, m1L (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to 3rd marker, m1R (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the front loop), slip marker, work to end. Repeat the increases every other row 6(7)8(11)12 more times. 94(110)126(142)158 sts on the needles: 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 78(90)102(116)130 sts in the back.

    After the last increases, work 1 round as established. Next round: work to last 2 sts before 3rd marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), remove marker, work to end. Remove the beginning of round marker. Work to 2nd marker, remove marker, k2tog,cast on 1 st for seaming. Turn work. WS: p19(23)27(29)31,cast on 1 st for seaming. Turn work. RS: k1, skp, k14(18)22(24)26, k2tog, k1.

    Leave the 74(86)98(112)126 back sts on hold. With the 18(22)26(28)30 belly sts, work stockinette st to create the front leg openings. After 8(9)10(11)12 cm, on a RS row bind off 1 st for seaming at both ends. Leave the remaining 16(20)24(26)28 sts on hold.

    Work back and forth with the 74(86)98(112)126 back sts and on the first row increase 1 st for seaming at both ends = 76(88)100(114)128 sts. On every 4th row decrease 3x1 st at both ends: k1, skp, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 70(82)94(108)122 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    After 7(8)9(10)11 cm with the back sts only, on a RS row work until 1 st remains. Join the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts = 86(102)118(134)150 sts. Decrease 1 st (knit together the last back st and first belly st), place marker, work 14(18)22(24)26 belly sts, place marker, decrease 1 st (work a skp decrease with the last belly st and first back st). 84(100)116(132)148 sts now on the needles. Work in the round and repeat the decreases on every other round 4 more times. 76(92)108(124)140 sts on the needles: 16(20)24(26)28 sts in the belly, 60(72)84(98)112 sts in the back.

    When you have worked 7(8)9(10)11 cm after the leg openings, leave the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts on hold and work back and forth with the 60(72)84(98)112 back sts.

    On the next RS row, begin decreases: k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every other round 5(9)15(14)17 more times.

    Continue decreasing: on the next RS row, k2, sk2p (slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 5(6)5(8)9 more times. 24(24)28(32)36 sts now on the needles.

    Finishing

    Border: Move the 24(24)28(32)36 sts onto the smaller circular needle and pick up and knit 1 st from each row at the edge of the work, knit the 16(20)24(26)28 belly sts, pick up and knit 1 st from each row at the edge. Work ribbing in the round. On the first round, decrease 1 st if needed to maintain rib pattern throughout. When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, pick up and knit 36(40)44(44)48 sts from the leg opening and work ribbing in the round for 3(3)4(4)5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other leg opening in the same manner.

    Steam the dog sweater lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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