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Novita 7 Veljestä: Voima cabled fingerless gloves

As low as €3.30

With the Voima fingerless gloves, you can even knit outside! The gloves are adorned by a chain link cable pattern.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 37
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Voima cabled fingerless gloves
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-043 Stone
€5.50
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Voima cabled fingerless gloves
Novita 7 Veljestä: Voima cabled fingerless gloves

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N042037
    Pattern details
    Size
    One size

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (043) Stone 100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Right glove

    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles: 13, 13, 11 and 11 sts. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Beginning with p2, work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

    Work stockinette st and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, k4, work 18 st pattern, k4; on needles III and IV, knit all sts. Work stockinette st. In the cable pattern, work rows 2-34 of the chart.

    Note: When you have worked 6 rounds after the ribbing, begin thumb gusset: work needles I and II; k2 at the beginning of needle III, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. After each time there are 2 sts more between the increases. 14 sts in the thumb gusset. Work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold and cast on 2 sts in their place. Work stockinette st and cables as established until you have worked row 34 and the glove reaches the base of the little finger.

    Fingers:

    Little finger: k6 at beginning of needle I (back), cast on 4 sts, k4 at end of needle IV (palm) = 14 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Distribute the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Tightly bind off in purl.

    Place the sts on hold onto the needles: pick up and knit 4 sts from the cast-on at the base of the little finger; on needle I, k5, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over); on needle II, k2tog, k4, skp, k5; on needle III, k11; on needle IV, k7. With these 39 sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds.

    Ring finger: knit the 4 sts from the little finger, k5 (back), cast on 4 sts, k5 (palm) = 18 sts. Work like little finger and bind off in purl.

    Middle finger: pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the ring finger, k5 (back), cast on 4 sts, k6 (palm) = 19 sts. Work as established.

    Index finger: pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the middle finger, k14 = 18 sts. Work as established.

    Thumb: distribute the sts on hold onto two needles and pick up 4 sts from the base of the thumb = 18 sts. Work stockinette st in the round. On the second round, k2tog at the picked-up sts = 17 sts. Work stockinette st for 3 cm, then bind off.

    Left glove

    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles: 11, 11, 13 and 13 sts. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Beginning with k2, work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

    Work stockinette st and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, knit all sts; on needles III and IV, k4, work 18 st pattern, k4. Work stockinette st. In the cable pattern, work rows 2-34 of the chart.

    Note: When you have worked 6 rounds after the ribbing, beginthumb gusset: knit to last 2 sts on needle II. Increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. After each time there are 2 sts more between the increases. 14 sts in the thumb gusset. Work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold and cast on 2 sts in their place. Work stockinette st and cables as established until you have worked row 34 and the glove reaches the base of the little finger.

    Fingers:

    Little finger: k4 at beginning of needle I (palm), cast on 4 sts, k6 at end of needle IV = 14 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Distribute the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Tightly bind off in purl.

    Place the sts on hold back onto the needles: on needle I, k7; on needle II, k11; on needle III, k5, k2tog, k4, skp; on needle IV, k2tog, k5; pick up and knit 4 sts from the cast-on at the base of the little finger. With these 39 sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds.

    Ring finger: k5 (palm), cast on 4 sts, k5 (back), knit 4 sts from the base of the little finger = 18 sts. Work like little finger and bind off in purl.

    Middle finger: k6 (palm), cast on 4 sts, k5 (back), pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the ring finger = 19 sts. Work as established.

    Index finger: k14, pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the middle finger = 18 sts. Work as established.

    Thumb: work like right thumb.

    Finishing

    Steam the gloves lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions


    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*

    Right glove

    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles: 13, 13, 11 and 11 sts. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Beginning with p2, work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

    Work stockinette st and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, k4, work 18 st pattern, k4; on needles III and IV, knit all sts. Work stockinette st. In the cable pattern, work rows 2-34 of the chart.

    Note: When you have worked 6 rounds after the ribbing, begin thumb gusset: work needles I and II; k2 at the beginning of needle III, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. After each time there are 2 sts more between the increases. 14 sts in the thumb gusset. Work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold and cast on 2 sts in their place. Work stockinette st and cables as established until you have worked row 34 and the glove reaches the base of the little finger.

    Fingers:

    Little finger: k6 at beginning of needle I (back), cast on 4 sts, k4 at end of needle IV (palm) = 14 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Distribute the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Tightly bind off in purl.

    Place the sts on hold onto the needles: pick up and knit 4 sts from the cast-on at the base of the little finger; on needle I, k5, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over); on needle II, k2tog, k4, skp, k5; on needle III, k11; on needle IV, k7. With these 39 sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds.

    Ring finger: knit the 4 sts from the little finger, k5 (back), cast on 4 sts, k5 (palm) = 18 sts. Work like little finger and bind off in purl.

    Middle finger: pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the ring finger, k5 (back), cast on 4 sts, k6 (palm) = 19 sts. Work as established.

    Index finger: pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the middle finger, k14 = 18 sts. Work as established.

    Thumb: distribute the sts on hold onto two needles and pick up 4 sts from the base of the thumb = 18 sts. Work stockinette st in the round. On the second round, k2tog at the picked-up sts = 17 sts. Work stockinette st for 3 cm, then bind off.

    Left glove

    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles: 11, 11, 13 and 13 sts. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Beginning with k2, work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

    Work stockinette st and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, knit all sts; on needles III and IV, k4, work 18 st pattern, k4. Work stockinette st. In the cable pattern, work rows 2-34 of the chart.

    Note: When you have worked 6 rounds after the ribbing, beginthumb gusset: knit to last 2 sts on needle II. Increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. After each time there are 2 sts more between the increases. 14 sts in the thumb gusset. Work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold and cast on 2 sts in their place. Work stockinette st and cables as established until you have worked row 34 and the glove reaches the base of the little finger.

    Fingers:

    Little finger: k4 at beginning of needle I (palm), cast on 4 sts, k6 at end of needle IV = 14 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Distribute the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Tightly bind off in purl.

    Place the sts on hold back onto the needles: on needle I, k7; on needle II, k11; on needle III, k5, k2tog, k4, skp; on needle IV, k2tog, k5; pick up and knit 4 sts from the cast-on at the base of the little finger. With these 39 sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds.

    Ring finger: k5 (palm), cast on 4 sts, k5 (back), knit 4 sts from the base of the little finger = 18 sts. Work like little finger and bind off in purl.

    Middle finger: k6 (palm), cast on 4 sts, k5 (back), pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the ring finger = 19 sts. Work as established.

    Index finger: k14, pick up and knit 4 sts from the base of the middle finger = 18 sts. Work as established.

    Thumb: work like right thumb.

    Finishing

    Steam the gloves lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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