Novita 7 Veljestä: Viena colourwork mittens

As low as €6.96

The earthy colours and traditional patterns lend a unique beauty to the matching Viena mittens and cowl, knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä. The cuff of the mittens features a two-coloured Latvian braid, and the afterthought thumbs are knitted with a single colour.
Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
1
Intermediate
Customize Novita 7 Veljestä: Viena colourwork mittens

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N03211
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (010) Off White <100 g,

    (044) Graphite 50 g and

    some (691) Peat



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed



    Designer
    Ronja Hakalehto

    Left mitten

    Using the smaller needles and Peat, cast on 40 sts and divide them onto four needles, 10 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.

    Using Peat and Off White, knit a Latvian braid in the round as follows:

    Round 1: *k1 with Peat, k1 with Off White*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Round 2: Bring both yarns to front and hold there for the rest of the braid. *P1 with Peat, bring Off White under Peat (twisting the yarns), p1 with Off White, bring Peat under Off White (twisting the yarns)*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will become untwisted on the next round.

    Round 3: Hold both yarns in front as before. *P1 with Peat, bring Off White over Peat, p1 with Off White, bring Peat over Off White*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Knit 2 rounds using Peat, then begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 8 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2–9 of the chart. Knit 2 rounds using Peat, then make another Latvian braid as established.

    Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round using Peat and increase 1 st on each needle = 44 sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II, then work rows 2–15.

    Continue on row 16 of the chart: work needle I (11 sts) and the first st of needle II, work 8 sts using a different-coloured yarn for the thumbhole (see red line on the chart). Move the 8 sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end of round following the chart.

    Work rows 17–49 of the chart and work the top decreases following the chart (rows 41–49). There is 1 Off White st between the decreases, and you will decrease using Off White.

    Break yarn and pull it through the sts. Securely weave in.

     

    Thumb

    Remove the different-coloured yarn. Using the larger needles, pick up the sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumbhole as well as additional sts from both ends for 19 sts in total. Divide the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round using Off White.

    When you have worked for 5 cm or the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in.

     

    Right mitten

    Mirror left mitten, working the thumb hole on needle III.

     

    Finishing

    Steam the mittens lightly.

    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart and instructions.

    Gauge 24 sts in colourwork with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Left mitten

    Using the smaller needles and Peat, cast on 40 sts and divide them onto four needles, 10 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.

    Using Peat and Off White, knit a Latvian braid in the round as follows:

    Round 1: *k1 with Peat, k1 with Off White*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Round 2: Bring both yarns to front and hold there for the rest of the braid. *P1 with Peat, bring Off White under Peat (twisting the yarns), p1 with Off White, bring Peat under Off White (twisting the yarns)*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will become untwisted on the next round.

    Round 3: Hold both yarns in front as before. *P1 with Peat, bring Off White over Peat, p1 with Off White, bring Peat over Off White*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Knit 2 rounds using Peat, then begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 8 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2–9 of the chart. Knit 2 rounds using Peat, then make another Latvian braid as established.

    Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round using Peat and increase 1 st on each needle = 44 sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II, then work rows 2–15.

    Continue on row 16 of the chart: work needle I (11 sts) and the first st of needle II, work 8 sts using a different-coloured yarn for the thumbhole (see red line on the chart). Move the 8 sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end of round following the chart.

    Work rows 17–49 of the chart and work the top decreases following the chart (rows 41–49). There is 1 Off White st between the decreases, and you will decrease using Off White.

    Break yarn and pull it through the sts. Securely weave in.

     

    Thumb

    Remove the different-coloured yarn. Using the larger needles, pick up the sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumbhole as well as additional sts from both ends for 19 sts in total. Divide the sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round using Off White.

    When you have worked for 5 cm or the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in.

     

    Right mitten

    Mirror left mitten, working the thumb hole on needle III.

     

    Finishing

    Steam the mittens lightly.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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