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Novita 7 Veljestä: Selja sweater

As low as €3.33

The elegant Selja sweater features a leaf motif, which along with the warm brown colour serves as a fond reminder of relaxing weekends spent in nature. The loose sweater is knitted in the round up to the armholes using Novita 7 Veljestä.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 5
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Selja sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-691 peat
€5.54
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.96
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.5 mm
€3.33

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Selja sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä: Selja sweater

In stock

€3.33

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03215
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (691) Peat 550(600)650(700)750(800) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) and 4.5 mm (UK/US 7) or sizes needed; 3.5 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline; 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique



    Designer
    Ronja Hakalehto

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm), cast on 156(168)184(200)212(228) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle. Work seed st and lace and cable pattern starting on row 1 of the chart: work 16(19)23(27)30(34) front sts in seed st, work section A (= 10 sts) of the chart, section B (= 26 sts), section C (= 10 sts), work 16(19)23(27)30(34) sts in seed st, place side marker, work 78(84)92(100)106(114) back sts in seed st. At sections A and C, work rows 2–4, then keep repeating rows 1–4; at section B, work rows 2–10 and then keep repeating rows 1–10.

    When the piece measures approx. 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm, finish with an even-numbered row of the chart and then work next round to last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts. Bind off next 6(10)10(12)12(12) sts for armhole, work 72(74)82(88)94(102) front sts, bind off next 6(10)10(12)12(12) sts for armhole, work 72(74)82(88)94(102) back sts. 72(74)82(88)94(102) sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

     

    Top back

    Turn work. Beginning with the WS row, work seed st flat with the 72(74)82(88)94(102) back sts. At both ends, bind off for armholes on every other row: 0(0)0(1)1(1)x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)1(2)x2 sts and 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st = 64(66)70(74)78(82) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 26(26)26(28)28(28) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows, bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the 17(18)20(21)23(25) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Top front

    Place the 72(74)82(88)94(102) front sts back onto the needles. Turn work and begin with the WS row. At both ends, bind off for armholes on every other row: 0(0)0(1)1(1)x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)1(2)x2 sts and 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st = 64(66)70(74)78(82) sts.

    When the armhole measures approx, 11(12)13(14)14(15) cm, leave the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 4x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the 17(18)20(21)23(25) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique.

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 42(44)46(46)48(48) sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 12(14)16(18)16(20) sts = 54(58)62(64)64(68) sts.

    Switch to the larger needles and work seed st in the round.

    When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round. Repeat the increases after 5 cm = 58(62)66(68)68(72) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, on the next round work to last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts, bind off the last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts, bind off the first 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts of the next round, work to end of round.

    Work seed st flat. On every other row, bind off at both ends: 2(2)3(3)3(3)x2 sts, 11(12)13(14)15(16)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline: Place the sts you left on hold onto the smaller circular needle (40 cm) and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline for 98(98)100(100)102(102) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 84(92)100(108)116(124) cm / 33(36¼)39¼(42½)45¾(48¾) in

    length 55(57)59(61)63(65) cm / 21¾(22½)23¼(24)24¾(25½) in

    inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm / 18(18½)19(19¼)19¼(19¾) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Lace and cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Seed stitch in the round: Round 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of round. Round 2: *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of round. Keep repeating rounds 1–2. Seed stitch (flat): Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Row 2: purl the knit sts and knit the purl sts. Keep repeating rows 1–2.

    Gauge 18 sts and 32 rows in seed st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in; width of front pattern (46 sts) approx. 23 cm / 9 in

    Note The sweater is knitted in the round, and the sleeves are sewn to the armholes.



    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm), cast on 156(168)184(200)212(228) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle. Work seed st and lace and cable pattern starting on row 1 of the chart: work 16(19)23(27)30(34) front sts in seed st, work section A (= 10 sts) of the chart, section B (= 26 sts), section C (= 10 sts), work 16(19)23(27)30(34) sts in seed st, place side marker, work 78(84)92(100)106(114) back sts in seed st. At sections A and C, work rows 2–4, then keep repeating rows 1–4; at section B, work rows 2–10 and then keep repeating rows 1–10.

    When the piece measures approx. 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm, finish with an even-numbered row of the chart and then work next round to last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts. Bind off next 6(10)10(12)12(12) sts for armhole, work 72(74)82(88)94(102) front sts, bind off next 6(10)10(12)12(12) sts for armhole, work 72(74)82(88)94(102) back sts. 72(74)82(88)94(102) sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

     

    Top back

    Turn work. Beginning with the WS row, work seed st flat with the 72(74)82(88)94(102) back sts. At both ends, bind off for armholes on every other row: 0(0)0(1)1(1)x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)1(2)x2 sts and 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st = 64(66)70(74)78(82) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 26(26)26(28)28(28) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows, bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the 17(18)20(21)23(25) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Top front

    Place the 72(74)82(88)94(102) front sts back onto the needles. Turn work and begin with the WS row. At both ends, bind off for armholes on every other row: 0(0)0(1)1(1)x3 sts, 1(1)2(1)1(2)x2 sts and 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st = 64(66)70(74)78(82) sts.

    When the armhole measures approx, 11(12)13(14)14(15) cm, leave the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 4x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the 17(18)20(21)23(25) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique.

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 42(44)46(46)48(48) sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 12(14)16(18)16(20) sts = 54(58)62(64)64(68) sts.

    Switch to the larger needles and work seed st in the round.

    When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round. Repeat the increases after 5 cm = 58(62)66(68)68(72) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, on the next round work to last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts, bind off the last 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts, bind off the first 3(5)5(6)6(6) sts of the next round, work to end of round.

    Work seed st flat. On every other row, bind off at both ends: 2(2)3(3)3(3)x2 sts, 11(12)13(14)15(16)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline: Place the sts you left on hold onto the smaller circular needle (40 cm) and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline for 98(98)100(100)102(102) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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