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Novita 7 Veljestä: Marja cardigan

As low as €6.90

Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä, Marja is a relaxed and ample cardigan which is easy to wear over any piece of clothing.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 8
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Marja cardigan
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-053 berry porridge
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Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-053 berry porridge
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-053 berry porridge
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-053 berry porridge
€5.50
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -5.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-5.0 mm
€6.90

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Novita 7 Veljestä: Marja cardigan
Novita 7 Veljestä: Marja cardigan

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N01218
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M/L)XL/XXL(3XL/4XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (053) Berry Porridge 1250(1300)1350(1400) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves) Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed for gauge



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Details

    Back

    Cast on 141(151)163(173) sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work 1 st at both ends in garter st; with the other sts work ribbing for 2,5 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Work ribbing at both ends and seed st with the other sts: work 1 st in garter st, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, work seed st to last 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, work 1 st in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases at both ends: work 7 sts, increase 1 (knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop, maintaining seed st pattern), work to last 7 sts, increase 1. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 17 more times = 177(187)199(209) sts.

    When the piece measures 62(65)68(71) cm, on every other row bind off 4(0)0(0)x2 sts, 16(19)17(12)x3 sts and 0(1)3(8)x4 sts at both ends.

    Note: When you have worked the shoulder decreases 17 times at both ends and there are 79(85)93(93) sts in total, switch to working ribbing with the middle 33(33)37(37) sts and seed st with the other sts.

    After you have completed the shoulder decreases, on the next row bind off 16(16)18(18) sts, place marker, bind off next 33(33)37(37) sts, place marker, bind off remaining 16(16)18(18) sts. The back neckline is now between the markers.

    Left front

    Cast on 121(127)135(141) sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work 1 st at both ends in garter st; with the other sts work ribbing for 2,5 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Work ribbing at both ends and seed st with the other sts: work 1 st in garter st, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, work seed st to last 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, work 1 st in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases at the right end: work 7 sts, increase 1 (knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop, maintaining seed st pattern), work to end of row. Repeat the increase every 3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 17 more times = 139(145)153(159) sts.

    When the piece measures 62(65)68(71) cm, on every other row bind off 4(0)0(0)x2 sts, 16(19)17(12)x3 sts and 0(1)3(8)x4 sts at the right end.

    Note: When you have worked the shoulder decrease 4 times and there are 131(133)141(147) sts on the needles, begin short rows at the neckline edge. Work next RS row to last 6 sts. Turn work, yarn over, slip 1st st pulling the yarn backwards and creating a double stitch), work to end of row. Next row: work to last 6 sts before first yo, turn work and yo, double stitch. Work to end. Work as established. On every other row turn work 6 sts before the previous double stitch 0(1)5(6) more times and then 11(10)6(5) times when 5 sts remain before the previous double stitch.

    After you have completed the short rows, at the right end work seed st and shoulder decreases, at the left end work 67(68)72(73) sts in ribbing and work the loops of the double sts together to form one st. After you have completed the shoulder decreases, on the next WS row bind off the rib sts in pattern, work to end. Bind off the remaining 16(16)18(18) shoulder sts.

    Right front: mirror left front.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 54(58)60(64) sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round.

    When the sleeve measures approx. 32 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seam, leaving 18(19)20(21) cm wide sleeve opening.

    Sew the sleeves to the wrong side of the work, at the edge between the ribbing and seed st, lightly stretching the fabric. On the right side, the ribbing of the sleeve opening will remain detached from the sleeve.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    top width approx. 98(104)110(116) cm + sleeves 32 cm / 38½(41)43¼(45¾) in + sleeves 12½ in

    length approx. 74(77)80(83) cm / 29¼(30¼)31½(33) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Row 2: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Seed stitch: Row 1: *p1, k1*

    Back

    Cast on 141(151)163(173) sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work 1 st at both ends in garter st; with the other sts work ribbing for 2,5 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Work ribbing at both ends and seed st with the other sts: work 1 st in garter st, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, work seed st to last 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, work 1 st in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases at both ends: work 7 sts, increase 1 (knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop, maintaining seed st pattern), work to last 7 sts, increase 1. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 17 more times = 177(187)199(209) sts.

    When the piece measures 62(65)68(71) cm, on every other row bind off 4(0)0(0)x2 sts, 16(19)17(12)x3 sts and 0(1)3(8)x4 sts at both ends.

    Note: When you have worked the shoulder decreases 17 times at both ends and there are 79(85)93(93) sts in total, switch to working ribbing with the middle 33(33)37(37) sts and seed st with the other sts.

    After you have completed the shoulder decreases, on the next row bind off 16(16)18(18) sts, place marker, bind off next 33(33)37(37) sts, place marker, bind off remaining 16(16)18(18) sts. The back neckline is now between the markers.

    Left front

    Cast on 121(127)135(141) sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work 1 st at both ends in garter st; with the other sts work ribbing for 2,5 cm and finish with a WS row.

    Work ribbing at both ends and seed st with the other sts: work 1 st in garter st, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, work seed st to last 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, work 1 st in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases at the right end: work 7 sts, increase 1 (knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop, maintaining seed st pattern), work to end of row. Repeat the increase every 3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 17 more times = 139(145)153(159) sts.

    When the piece measures 62(65)68(71) cm, on every other row bind off 4(0)0(0)x2 sts, 16(19)17(12)x3 sts and 0(1)3(8)x4 sts at the right end.

    Note: When you have worked the shoulder decrease 4 times and there are 131(133)141(147) sts on the needles, begin short rows at the neckline edge. Work next RS row to last 6 sts. Turn work, yarn over, slip 1st st pulling the yarn backwards and creating a double stitch), work to end of row. Next row: work to last 6 sts before first yo, turn work and yo, double stitch. Work to end. Work as established. On every other row turn work 6 sts before the previous double stitch 0(1)5(6) more times and then 11(10)6(5) times when 5 sts remain before the previous double stitch.

    After you have completed the short rows, at the right end work seed st and shoulder decreases, at the left end work 67(68)72(73) sts in ribbing and work the loops of the double sts together to form one st. After you have completed the shoulder decreases, on the next WS row bind off the rib sts in pattern, work to end. Bind off the remaining 16(16)18(18) shoulder sts.

    Right front: mirror left front.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 54(58)60(64) sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round.

    When the sleeve measures approx. 32 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seam, leaving 18(19)20(21) cm wide sleeve opening.

    Sew the sleeves to the wrong side of the work, at the edge between the ribbing and seed st, lightly stretching the fabric. On the right side, the ribbing of the sleeve opening will remain detached from the sleeve.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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