My Cart

Mini Cart

Novita 7 Veljestä: Madeleine lace socks

As low as €5.50

Niina Laitinen designed these ankle-length summer socks for the Novita 7 Veljestä yarn. They are easy and quick to make – an ideal summer present!
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 34
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Madeleine lace socks
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-514 wild rose
€5.50
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.90

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Novita 7 Veljestä: Madeleine lace socks
Novita 7 Veljestä: Madeleine lace socks

In stock

€5.50

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022134
    Pattern details
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (514) Wild Rose 100 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed



    Designer
    Niina Laitinen

    Details

    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles: 13+12+11+12 sts. Begin twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Work ribbing for 12 rounds. Next round: on needles I, II and III, work twisted ribbing; on needle IV, knit all sts.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 25 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

    Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise and purl to end, decreasing 1 st = 24 sts. Turn work. Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 purlwise, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl to end. Turn work.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2 until the heel flap has 24 rows and you have last worked a WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: Continue working the reinforced stitch pattern as established. RS: work until 9 heel flap sts remain. Ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move the sts back to the left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop), turn work. 7 sts remain on the other needle. Slip 1 purlwise, purl to last 9 sts. P2tog, turn work. Slip 1 knitwise, work reinforced st pattern to last 8 sts. Ssk, turn work. Slip 1 purlwise, purl to last 8 sts. P2tog, turn work.

    Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the centre. When only the centre sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4 sts each. K4. You are now between needles I and IV.

    Using a free needle, pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap. Knit the 4 sts on needle I and knit the 14 picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, k3, work 17 st lace pattern on row 1 of chart, k3. Pick up 14 sts from the right end of the heel flap and knit them through the back loop. Knit the 4 sts of needle IV onto the same needle. 59 sts on the needles.

    On needles I and IV work stockinette st and on needles II and III work rows 2–30 of the chart; at the same time begin gusset decreases : at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, ssk. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 47 sts remain (12+12+11+12 sts).

    After row 30 of the lace chart, work stockinette st with all sts.

    When the sole measures approx. 21 cm or the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases: on needles I and III, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needles II and IV, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle.

    Repeat the decreases on every other round until 31 sts remain (8+8+7+8 sts). Now work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain (on the last round, omit the decrease on needle III).

    Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Shoe size 38/39 (EUR)

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *–*. Lace pattern: work following the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge 22 sts and 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in



    Cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles: 13+12+11+12 sts. Begin twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Work ribbing for 12 rounds. Next round: on needles I, II and III, work twisted ribbing; on needle IV, knit all sts.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 25 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

    Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise and purl to end, decreasing 1 st = 24 sts. Turn work. Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 purlwise, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl to end. Turn work.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2 until the heel flap has 24 rows and you have last worked a WS row.

    Begin turning the heel: Continue working the reinforced stitch pattern as established. RS: work until 9 heel flap sts remain. Ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move the sts back to the left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop), turn work. 7 sts remain on the other needle. Slip 1 purlwise, purl to last 9 sts. P2tog, turn work. Slip 1 knitwise, work reinforced st pattern to last 8 sts. Ssk, turn work. Slip 1 purlwise, purl to last 8 sts. P2tog, turn work.

    Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the centre. When only the centre sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4 sts each. K4. You are now between needles I and IV.

    Using a free needle, pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap. Knit the 4 sts on needle I and knit the 14 picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, k3, work 17 st lace pattern on row 1 of chart, k3. Pick up 14 sts from the right end of the heel flap and knit them through the back loop. Knit the 4 sts of needle IV onto the same needle. 59 sts on the needles.

    On needles I and IV work stockinette st and on needles II and III work rows 2–30 of the chart; at the same time begin gusset decreases : at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, ssk. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 47 sts remain (12+12+11+12 sts).

    After row 30 of the lace chart, work stockinette st with all sts.

    When the sole measures approx. 21 cm or the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases: on needles I and III, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needles II and IV, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle.

    Repeat the decreases on every other round until 31 sts remain (8+8+7+8 sts). Now work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain (on the last round, omit the decrease on needle III).

    Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account