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Novita 7 Veljestä: Liv wrap cardigan

Novita 7 Veljestä: Liv wrap cardigan

As low as €3.80

Novita 7 Veljestä -langasta neulottu Liv-kietaisutakki kiinnitetään edestä hauskasti neulenauhat solmimalla.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 7
Skill level Expert
Novita 7 Veljestä: Liv wrap cardigan
€4.90
€4.90
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Novita circular knitting pins 80 cm-3.5 mm
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Novita circular knitting pins 80 cm-4.0 mm
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Novita double ended 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
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Novita double ended 20 cm birch -4.0 mm
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Novita 7 Veljestä: Liv wrap cardigan
Novita 7 Veljestä: Liv wrap cardigan

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€3.80

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03207
    Like
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (047) Lichen 500(550)600(650)700(750) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed for gauge https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/tutorials/villasukan-neulominen/magic-loop-tekniikka-eli-luuppaus


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Sleeves
    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    Using the smaller needles cast on 38(40)40(42)44(44) sts and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
    When the piece measures 6(9)6(6)9(13) cm, increase 1 st at the beginning and of round: k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3,5(3)2,5(2) cm 9(10)11(13)15(17) more times = 58(62)64(70)76(80) sts.
    When the sleeve measures 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm, bind off the last 1(3)4(5)6(8) sts of the round and the first 1(3)4(5)6(8) sts of the next round. Leave the remaining 56(56)56(60)64(64) sts on hold.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Body
    Using the smaller needles cast on 147(163)175(191)211(227) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work to end of row. Place side markers at 34(38)41(45)50(54) sts from the edges. There should be 79(87)93(101)111(119) back sts between the markers.
    Work ribbing and begin increases at the front edges as follows: k1, increase 1 (yarn over, and on the next row work it through the back loop), work ribbing to last st, increase 1 as established, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st. With the other sts, including the increased sts, work ribbing.
    Repeat the increases as established on every row 38(42)45(49)54(58) more times.
    Note: When you have worked 2,5 cm in ribbing, switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st.
    After the increases there are 225(249)267(291)321(345) sts on the needles: 73(81)87(95)105(113) sts in the fronts and 79(87)93(101)111(119) sts in the back.
    Work stockinette st for 3 cm and then begin decreases at both front edges as follows: (RS) k1, s2kp (= slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), work to last 4 sts, k3tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 8(10)13(13)13(13) more times. Sizes S and M only: On every other row decrease 1 st at both front edges as follows: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 4(2)0(0)0(0) more times.
    179(199)211(235)265(289) sts now on the needles: 50(56)59(67)77(85) sts in the fronts and 79(87)93(101)111(119) sts in the back.
    On the next WS row work to last 1(3)4(5)7(9) sts before side marker, bind off 2(6)8(10)14(18) sts for an armhole, work to last 1(3)4(5)7(9) sts before side marker, bind off 2(6)8(10)14(18) sts for the other armhole, work to end. 49(53)55(62)70(76) sts in the fronts, 77(81)85(91)97(101) sts in the back.
     
    Yoke
    Move all sts onto the same needle: 49(53)55(62)70(76) front sts, place marker, 56(56)56(60)64(64) sleeve sts, place marker, 77(81)85(91)97(101) back sts, place marker, 56(56)56(60)64(64) sleeve sts, place marker, 49(53)55(62)70(76) left front sts = 287(299)307(335)365(381) sts.
    Keep decreasing at the front edges and begin raglan decreases: (RS) k1, skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts before marker, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), slip marker. Sleeve: k1, s2kp(s2kp)skp(skp)skp(skp), work to last 4(4)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, k3tog(k3tog)k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k2tog), k1, slip marker. Back: skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts before marker, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), slip marker. Sleeve: k1, s2kp(s2kp)skp(skp)skp(skp), work to last 4(4)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, k3tog(k3tog)k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k2tog), k1, slip marker. Front: skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 3(3)3(4)4(4) sts, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), k1.
    47(51)53(58)66(72) sts in the fronts, 52(52)54(58)62(62) sts in the sleeves and 75(79)83(87)93(97) sts in the back = 273(285)297(319)349(365) sts.
    Work stockinette st and keep decreasing as follows: at the front edges, on every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)6(9)x2 sts and then 22(24)25(24)22(20)x1 st; at the front and back raglan, on every other row decrease 0(0)0(1)1(2)x2 sts and then 22(24)25(25)27(27)x1 st; at the sleeve raglan seams, on every other row decrease 2(0)0(0)0(0)x2 sts and then 20(24)25(26)28(28)x1 st.  
    After the decreases there are 3 sts in the fronts, 4(4)4(6)6(6) sts in the sleeves and 31(31)33(33)35(35) sts in the back = 45(45)47(51)53(53) sts.
    On the next RS row: k1, k2tog, k4(4)4(6)6(6) (sleeve), skp (back), work 27(27)29(29)31(31) sts, k2tog, k4(4)4(6)6(6) (sleeve), skp (front), k1.
    Leave the remaining 41(41)43(47)49(49) neckline sts on hold for the border.
     
    Border
    Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the right side of the work. Start at the right bottom edge. Place markers below and above the straight part of both front pieces, with 8 sts between the markers. Pick up approx. 3 sts per 4 rows. Knit the neckline sts you left on hold.
    With all sts work garter st for 11 rows. At the same time increase 1 st below and above the markers on each RS row (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop).
    On the next RS row bind off all sts until you reach the marker, knit the 8 sts between the markers and leave them on hold on a piece of scrap yarn, bind off the remaining sts.
     
    Tie strings
    Move the 8 sts you left on hold back to the smaller needles. Work garter st until the belt measures approx. 25 cm. Bind off.
    Pick up 8 sts at the same spot on the left side. Work garter st for 25 cm. Bind off.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
    Sew the underarm seams.
    Using chain sts crochet a small loop to the edge of the left front. Attach a button to the side of the right front.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)122(132) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)48(52) in
    length 49(51)53(56)59(61) cm / 19¼(20)20¾(22)23¼(24) in
    inner sleeve length 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm / 18(18½)19(19)19¼(19¼) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Row 2: *p1, k1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, p1. Keep repeating rows 1–2. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Garter stitch: knit all rows.
    Gauge 18 sts and 25 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in


    Sleeves
    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    Using the smaller needles cast on 38(40)40(42)44(44) sts and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
    When the piece measures 6(9)6(6)9(13) cm, increase 1 st at the beginning and of round: k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3,5(3)2,5(2) cm 9(10)11(13)15(17) more times = 58(62)64(70)76(80) sts.
    When the sleeve measures 46(47)48(48)49(49) cm, bind off the last 1(3)4(5)6(8) sts of the round and the first 1(3)4(5)6(8) sts of the next round. Leave the remaining 56(56)56(60)64(64) sts on hold.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Body
    Using the smaller needles cast on 147(163)175(191)211(227) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work to end of row. Place side markers at 34(38)41(45)50(54) sts from the edges. There should be 79(87)93(101)111(119) back sts between the markers.
    Work ribbing and begin increases at the front edges as follows: k1, increase 1 (yarn over, and on the next row work it through the back loop), work ribbing to last st, increase 1 as established, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st. With the other sts, including the increased sts, work ribbing.
    Repeat the increases as established on every row 38(42)45(49)54(58) more times.
    Note: When you have worked 2,5 cm in ribbing, switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st.
    After the increases there are 225(249)267(291)321(345) sts on the needles: 73(81)87(95)105(113) sts in the fronts and 79(87)93(101)111(119) sts in the back.
    Work stockinette st for 3 cm and then begin decreases at both front edges as follows: (RS) k1, s2kp (= slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), work to last 4 sts, k3tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 8(10)13(13)13(13) more times. Sizes S and M only: On every other row decrease 1 st at both front edges as follows: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 4(2)0(0)0(0) more times.
    179(199)211(235)265(289) sts now on the needles: 50(56)59(67)77(85) sts in the fronts and 79(87)93(101)111(119) sts in the back.
    On the next WS row work to last 1(3)4(5)7(9) sts before side marker, bind off 2(6)8(10)14(18) sts for an armhole, work to last 1(3)4(5)7(9) sts before side marker, bind off 2(6)8(10)14(18) sts for the other armhole, work to end. 49(53)55(62)70(76) sts in the fronts, 77(81)85(91)97(101) sts in the back.
     
    Yoke
    Move all sts onto the same needle: 49(53)55(62)70(76) front sts, place marker, 56(56)56(60)64(64) sleeve sts, place marker, 77(81)85(91)97(101) back sts, place marker, 56(56)56(60)64(64) sleeve sts, place marker, 49(53)55(62)70(76) left front sts = 287(299)307(335)365(381) sts.
    Keep decreasing at the front edges and begin raglan decreases: (RS) k1, skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts before marker, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), slip marker. Sleeve: k1, s2kp(s2kp)skp(skp)skp(skp), work to last 4(4)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, k3tog(k3tog)k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k2tog), k1, slip marker. Back: skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 2(2)2(3)3(3) sts before marker, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), slip marker. Sleeve: k1, s2kp(s2kp)skp(skp)skp(skp), work to last 4(4)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, k3tog(k3tog)k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k2tog), k1, slip marker. Front: skp(skp)skp(s2kp)s2kp(s2kp), work to last 3(3)3(4)4(4) sts, k2tog(k2tog)k2tog(k3tog)k3tog(k3tog), k1.
    47(51)53(58)66(72) sts in the fronts, 52(52)54(58)62(62) sts in the sleeves and 75(79)83(87)93(97) sts in the back = 273(285)297(319)349(365) sts.
    Work stockinette st and keep decreasing as follows: at the front edges, on every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)6(9)x2 sts and then 22(24)25(24)22(20)x1 st; at the front and back raglan, on every other row decrease 0(0)0(1)1(2)x2 sts and then 22(24)25(25)27(27)x1 st; at the sleeve raglan seams, on every other row decrease 2(0)0(0)0(0)x2 sts and then 20(24)25(26)28(28)x1 st.  
    After the decreases there are 3 sts in the fronts, 4(4)4(6)6(6) sts in the sleeves and 31(31)33(33)35(35) sts in the back = 45(45)47(51)53(53) sts.
    On the next RS row: k1, k2tog, k4(4)4(6)6(6) (sleeve), skp (back), work 27(27)29(29)31(31) sts, k2tog, k4(4)4(6)6(6) (sleeve), skp (front), k1.
    Leave the remaining 41(41)43(47)49(49) neckline sts on hold for the border.
     
    Border
    Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the right side of the work. Start at the right bottom edge. Place markers below and above the straight part of both front pieces, with 8 sts between the markers. Pick up approx. 3 sts per 4 rows. Knit the neckline sts you left on hold.
    With all sts work garter st for 11 rows. At the same time increase 1 st below and above the markers on each RS row (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop).
    On the next RS row bind off all sts until you reach the marker, knit the 8 sts between the markers and leave them on hold on a piece of scrap yarn, bind off the remaining sts.
     
    Tie strings
    Move the 8 sts you left on hold back to the smaller needles. Work garter st until the belt measures approx. 25 cm. Bind off.
    Pick up 8 sts at the same spot on the left side. Work garter st for 25 cm. Bind off.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
    Sew the underarm seams.
    Using chain sts crochet a small loop to the edge of the left front. Attach a button to the side of the right front.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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