Novita 7 Veljestä Horisontti: Sofia cardigan

As low as €6.96

This brioche cardigan is made from Novita 7 Veljestä Horisontti, our brand new yarn for this autumn. The classy double-breasted cardigan features a shawl collar.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N03203
    Size
    S(M/L)XL(XL/XXL)3XL

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä Horisontti
    (804) Reef 800(850)900(950)1000 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Sleeves
    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    Cast on 46(46)46(46)48 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 10 cm.
    Then work brioche in the round.
    When the piece measures approx. 20 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, increase 2 sts on both sides of the marker: brk, sl1yo, increase 2 sts (brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yarn over, work same st again), work brioche to last 2 sts before marker, increase 2 sts as before, work to end. 4 sts increased, 50(50)50(50)52 sts now on the needles.
    Repeat the increases every 13(10)8(6)6 cm 1(2)3(4)4 more time(s) = 54(58)62(66)68 sts.
    When the piece measures approx. 48(49)50(50)51 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, on the next round bind off the last 3(3)5(5)5 sts and the first 4(4)6(6)6 sts of the following round. There is a knit st at both edges. Leave the other 47(51)51(55)57 sts on hold.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Body
    The fronts and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
    Cast on 203(213)227(237)247 sts and work ribbing flat as instructed. When the ribbing measures 3 cm and you have last worked a WS row, work brioche flat as instructed.
    When the piece measures 14(15)16)16(16) cm, make the 1st buttonholes on the right front: (RS) work 6 sts, buttonhole (= bind off 1 st, yarn over), work 14 sts, buttonhole, work to end. On the next row include the buttonhole yarn overs in the brioche pattern.
    Make 2 more sets of buttonholes at 13(13)13(14)15 cm intervals.
    When the piece measures 40(41)42(44)46 cm, divide the sts into three groups on the next WS row: work 55(57)59(61)63 front sts, bind off the next 7(7)11(11)11 sts for an armhole, work 79(85)87(93)99 back sts, bind off the next 7(7)11(11)11 sts for the other armhole, work to end. There is now a purl st at the armhole edges.
     
    Top
    Work brioche starting with the RS row and place markers as follows: work 25 sts (collar), place 1st marker, work 30(32)34(36)38 sts (front), place 2nd marker (right front raglan), work the 47(51)51(55)57 sleeve sts, place 3rd marker (right back raglan), work 79(85)87(93)99 sts (back), place 4th marker (left back raglan), work the other 47(51)51(55)57 sleeve sts, place 5th marker (left front raglan), work 30(32)34(36)38 sts (front), place 6th marker, work 25 sts (collar). 283(301)307(325)339 sts now on the needles.
    Work the WS row and then begin raglan decreases as follows:
    Row 1: (RS) work brioche to last 2 sts before 1st marker, increase 2 sts (= brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, work same st again), sl1yo, slip 1st marker. Brk, sl1yo, decrease at the neckline by s2kp (= slip the yo and knit st knitwise to right-hand needle, slip next st knitwise to right-hand needle, knit the next st and its yo, pass the slipped sts over; 2 sts decreased), work to last 5 sts before 2nd marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog (= purl together the next 3 sts and their yarn overs), brk, sl1yo, slip 2nd marker. Sleeve: brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 4 sts before 3rd marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, slip 3rd marker. Back: sl1yo, brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 5 sts before 4th marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, sl1yo, slip 4th marker. Sleeve: brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 4 sts before 5th marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, slip 5th marker. Front: sl1yo, brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 5 sts before 6th marker, decrease at the neckline by k3tog (= knit together 3 sts and their yos; 2 sts decreased), sl1yo, brk, slip 6th marker. Collar: sl1yo, increase 2 sts as before, work to end. 267(285)291(309)323 sts now on the needles: 27 sts on both sides of the collar, 26(28)30(32)34 sts in the fronts, 43(47)47(51)53 sts in the sleeves, 75(81)83(89)95 sts in the back.
    Row 2: (WS) work the WS row of the brioche pattern, including the increased sts.
    Repeat the raglan decreases in the fronts and back 11(9)9(9)9 more times on every 6th row and 0(3)4(5)6 times every 4th row. Repeat the decreases in the sleeves 6(3)5(4)6 more times every 8th row and 3(7)5(7)5 times every 6th row. Repeat the decreases at the collar edge in both front pieces one more time on the 12th row. Repeat the collar increases 1 st from the marker 5 more times every 12th row. 123(125)123(125)131 sts now on the needles: 37 sts in the collars, 2 sts in the fronts, 7(7)7(7)9 sts in the sleeves, 31(33)31(33)35 sts in the back.
    On the next row work brioche to 1st marker, remove marker, knit together the first front st and yo. Leave the 38 sts on the the right-hand needle on hold. Securely bind off all sts for the back neckline until 1 st remains in the left front. Work the collar sts in brioche.
    Work brioche with the left collar sts and the last front st (38 sts in total) until the collar measures 11 cm. Bind off.
    Knit the other side of the collar in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Sew together the ends of the collar. Note: The collar is worn folded. Make sure the seam sts are on the WS. Sew the collar to the back neckline.
    Sew the underarm seams.
    Steam and shape. Fold the cuffs.
    Sew on the buttons.
     
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 116(124)132(140)148 cm / 45¾(48¾)52(55)58¼ in (the cardigan is loose-fitting)
    length 57(58)60(63)66 cm / 22½(22¾)23½(24¾)26 in
    inner sleeve length (with cuff folded) 43(44)45(45)46 cm / 17(17¼)17¾(17¾)18 in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in front (edge st), *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, p2. Row 2: (RS) slip 1 with yarn in front (edge st), *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts

    Sleeves
    Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    Cast on 46(46)46(46)48 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 10 cm.
    Then work brioche in the round.
    When the piece measures approx. 20 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, increase 2 sts on both sides of the marker: brk, sl1yo, increase 2 sts (brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yarn over, work same st again), work brioche to last 2 sts before marker, increase 2 sts as before, work to end. 4 sts increased, 50(50)50(50)52 sts now on the needles.
    Repeat the increases every 13(10)8(6)6 cm 1(2)3(4)4 more time(s) = 54(58)62(66)68 sts.
    When the piece measures approx. 48(49)50(50)51 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, on the next round bind off the last 3(3)5(5)5 sts and the first 4(4)6(6)6 sts of the following round. There is a knit st at both edges. Leave the other 47(51)51(55)57 sts on hold.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Body
    The fronts and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
    Cast on 203(213)227(237)247 sts and work ribbing flat as instructed. When the ribbing measures 3 cm and you have last worked a WS row, work brioche flat as instructed.
    When the piece measures 14(15)16)16(16) cm, make the 1st buttonholes on the right front: (RS) work 6 sts, buttonhole (= bind off 1 st, yarn over), work 14 sts, buttonhole, work to end. On the next row include the buttonhole yarn overs in the brioche pattern.
    Make 2 more sets of buttonholes at 13(13)13(14)15 cm intervals.
    When the piece measures 40(41)42(44)46 cm, divide the sts into three groups on the next WS row: work 55(57)59(61)63 front sts, bind off the next 7(7)11(11)11 sts for an armhole, work 79(85)87(93)99 back sts, bind off the next 7(7)11(11)11 sts for the other armhole, work to end. There is now a purl st at the armhole edges.
     
    Top
    Work brioche starting with the RS row and place markers as follows: work 25 sts (collar), place 1st marker, work 30(32)34(36)38 sts (front), place 2nd marker (right front raglan), work the 47(51)51(55)57 sleeve sts, place 3rd marker (right back raglan), work 79(85)87(93)99 sts (back), place 4th marker (left back raglan), work the other 47(51)51(55)57 sleeve sts, place 5th marker (left front raglan), work 30(32)34(36)38 sts (front), place 6th marker, work 25 sts (collar). 283(301)307(325)339 sts now on the needles.
    Work the WS row and then begin raglan decreases as follows:
    Row 1: (RS) work brioche to last 2 sts before 1st marker, increase 2 sts (= brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, work same st again), sl1yo, slip 1st marker. Brk, sl1yo, decrease at the neckline by s2kp (= slip the yo and knit st knitwise to right-hand needle, slip next st knitwise to right-hand needle, knit the next st and its yo, pass the slipped sts over; 2 sts decreased), work to last 5 sts before 2nd marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog (= purl together the next 3 sts and their yarn overs), brk, sl1yo, slip 2nd marker. Sleeve: brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 4 sts before 3rd marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, slip 3rd marker. Back: sl1yo, brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 5 sts before 4th marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, sl1yo, slip 4th marker. Sleeve: brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 4 sts before 5th marker, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, brk, slip 5th marker. Front: sl1yo, brk, decrease 2 sts by p3tog, work to last 5 sts before 6th marker, decrease at the neckline by k3tog (= knit together 3 sts and their yos; 2 sts decreased), sl1yo, brk, slip 6th marker. Collar: sl1yo, increase 2 sts as before, work to end. 267(285)291(309)323 sts now on the needles: 27 sts on both sides of the collar, 26(28)30(32)34 sts in the fronts, 43(47)47(51)53 sts in the sleeves, 75(81)83(89)95 sts in the back.
    Row 2: (WS) work the WS row of the brioche pattern, including the increased sts.
    Repeat the raglan decreases in the fronts and back 11(9)9(9)9 more times on every 6th row and 0(3)4(5)6 times every 4th row. Repeat the decreases in the sleeves 6(3)5(4)6 more times every 8th row and 3(7)5(7)5 times every 6th row. Repeat the decreases at the collar edge in both front pieces one more time on the 12th row. Repeat the collar increases 1 st from the marker 5 more times every 12th row. 123(125)123(125)131 sts now on the needles: 37 sts in the collars, 2 sts in the fronts, 7(7)7(7)9 sts in the sleeves, 31(33)31(33)35 sts in the back.
    On the next row work brioche to 1st marker, remove marker, knit together the first front st and yo. Leave the 38 sts on the the right-hand needle on hold. Securely bind off all sts for the back neckline until 1 st remains in the left front. Work the collar sts in brioche.
    Work brioche with the left collar sts and the last front st (38 sts in total) until the collar measures 11 cm. Bind off.
    Knit the other side of the collar in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Sew together the ends of the collar. Note: The collar is worn folded. Make sure the seam sts are on the WS. Sew the collar to the back neckline.
    Sew the underarm seams.
    Steam and shape. Fold the cuffs.
    Sew on the buttons.
     

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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