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Novita 7 Veljestä: Honkien humina sweater

Novita 7 Veljestä: Honkien humina sweater

As low as €3.00

The designer Sisko Sälpäkivi was inspired by tree tops swaying in the wind when she created the cable pattern of the sweater, made from Novita 7 Veljestä.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 16
Skill level Intermediate
Novita 7 Veljestä: Honkien humina sweater
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Novita knitting pins 35 cm-4.5 mm
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Novita 7 Veljestä: Honkien humina sweater
Novita 7 Veljestä: Honkien humina sweater

In stock

€3.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N032016
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (390) Juniper 550(600)650(700)750(800) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 4½–5 mm (UK 6–7 / US 7–8) or sizes needed; Novita 4 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline


    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Details
    Back
    Using the smaller needles cast on 114(122)128(136)142(150) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2(k2)k1(k1)p2, k2(p2, k2), *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: (WS) work 10(14)17(21)24(28) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A (= 36 sts), section B (=22+12 sts), section C (= 36 sts), work 10(14)17(21)24(28) sts in reverse stockinette st. 12 sts increased, 126(134)140(148)154(162) sts on the needles. At sections A and C keep repeating rows 2–25. At section B keep repeating rows 2–57.
    When the piece measures 37(38)39(40)44(46) cm, place a marker for the bottom of the armhole at both ends.
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, leave the middle 40 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row bind off 1x10(11)11(12)12(13) sts, 3x9(10)11(12)13(14) sts at the shoulder; at the same time on every other row bind off 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
     
    Front
    Work like back until the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm. Leave the middle 24 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
    Note: Begin shoulder decreases at the same point as on the back piece; on every other row bind off 1x10(11)11(12)12(13) sts and 3x9(10)11(12)13(14) sts.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
     
    Sleeves
    Using the smaller needles cast on 42(44)46(46)48(48) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2(p1, k2)p2, k2(p2, k2)k1(k1), *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: (WS) work 10(11)12(12)13(13) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section B (= 22+12 sts), work 10(11)12(12)13(13) sts in reverse stockinette st. 12 sts increased, 54(56)58(58)60(60) sts on the needles. At section B keep repeating rows 2–57.
    When the piece measures 6(6)7(10)8(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(2,5)3(2,5) cm 10(11)12(13)12(14) more times = 76(80)84(86)86(90) sts.
    When the piece measures 44(45)46(46)47(48) cm, bind off.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
    Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the sleeves (see the red marks on the pattern). Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.
    Neckline: Place the neckline sts you left on hold on the circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline for 108(108)108(112)112(112) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 100(108)116(124)132(140) cm / 39¼(42½)45¾(48¾)52(55) in (the sweater is loose-fitting)
    length 59(61)63(65)69(72) cm / 23¼(24)24¾(25½)27¼(28¼) in
    inner sleeve length 44(45)46(46)47(48) cm / 17¼(17¾)18(18)18½(19) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Reverse stockinette st: purl the right side rows and knit the wrong side rows. Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.
    Gauge 18 sts in reverse stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in; 106 st cable pattern (front and back) = 40 cm / 16 in; 34 st cable pattern (sleeves) = 13 cm / 5 in


    Back
    Using the smaller needles cast on 114(122)128(136)142(150) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2(k2)k1(k1)p2, k2(p2, k2), *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: (WS) work 10(14)17(21)24(28) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A (= 36 sts), section B (=22+12 sts), section C (= 36 sts), work 10(14)17(21)24(28) sts in reverse stockinette st. 12 sts increased, 126(134)140(148)154(162) sts on the needles. At sections A and C keep repeating rows 2–25. At section B keep repeating rows 2–57.
    When the piece measures 37(38)39(40)44(46) cm, place a marker for the bottom of the armhole at both ends.
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, leave the middle 40 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row bind off 1x10(11)11(12)12(13) sts, 3x9(10)11(12)13(14) sts at the shoulder; at the same time on every other row bind off 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
     
    Front
    Work like back until the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm. Leave the middle 24 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
    Note: Begin shoulder decreases at the same point as on the back piece; on every other row bind off 1x10(11)11(12)12(13) sts and 3x9(10)11(12)13(14) sts.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
     
    Sleeves
    Using the smaller needles cast on 42(44)46(46)48(48) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) k2(p1, k2)p2, k2(p2, k2)k1(k1), *p2, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: (WS) work 10(11)12(12)13(13) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section B (= 22+12 sts), work 10(11)12(12)13(13) sts in reverse stockinette st. 12 sts increased, 54(56)58(58)60(60) sts on the needles. At section B keep repeating rows 2–57.
    When the piece measures 6(6)7(10)8(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(2,5)3(2,5) cm 10(11)12(13)12(14) more times = 76(80)84(86)86(90) sts.
    When the piece measures 44(45)46(46)47(48) cm, bind off.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
    Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the sleeves (see the red marks on the pattern). Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.
    Neckline: Place the neckline sts you left on hold on the circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline for 108(108)108(112)112(112) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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