Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Raita: Kevätpuro (Spring Stream) cabled socks

As low as €5.95

Winner of Novita’s autumn 2020 striped yarn sock competition, these socks by Mari Rinne feature a single-colour 7 Veljestä cable pattern over a multicolour base knitted with 7 Veljestä Raita – a harmonious combination which simply delighted the jury.
Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
39
Intermediate
Customize Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Raita: Kevätpuro (Spring Stream) cabled socks

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    Availability: In stock

    N022139
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita 7 Veljestä

    (325) Lush 100 g and

    Novita 7 Veljestä Raita (803) Meadow Bouquet 50 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed



    Designer
    Mari Rinne

    Using Lush, cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 12 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 4,5 cm.

    Work 1 round in stockinette st and increase 16 sts: increase 1 at the beginning of round, then knit all purl sts except the last one through both front and back loops = 64 sts. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 16 sts each.

    Begin striped cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 8 sts at the right end, then keep repeating the 8 st pattern repeat to end of round. Work rows 2–32. Note: Cable turn at the beginning of round: slip first 2 sts, work to last 2 sts. Slip these 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle. Move 2 sts to both needles. Redistribute the sts: 15 sts on needles I and IV, 17 sts on needles II and III.

    Begin heel flap: work the 15 sts of needle I in colourwork onto needle IV = 30 sts. Turn work and break off Meadow Bouquet. Use Lush to knit the heel flap.

    Next row: Slip 1 with yarn in back and purl to end, evenly decreasing 6 sts. Decreases: p2tog at all stripes knitted with Meadow Bouquet except for the middle stripe = 24 sts.

    Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *­–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1–2 a total of 13 times = 26 rows.

    Begin turning the heel: Keep working the reinforced st pattern as established. Work the RS row until 9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the centre. When only the centre sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles. Knit the 4 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.

    Join Meadow Bouquet and resume the striped cable pattern on row 1 of chart II: On needle I, work the 4 heel flap sts following the chart, pick up 13 sts from the left end of the flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II and knit the sts through the back loop following the chart (the last heel flap st + the st picked up from in between are worked together). On needles II and III, work striped cable pattern following the chart. Pick up 1 st from between needle III and the heel + 13 sts from the right end of the heel flap. Work the sts through the back loop following the chart (the st picked up from in between and the first flap st are worked together). Work the remaining 4 sts following the chart. 68 sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 2–13 of chart II in the round. Now distribute the sts following the top of chart II. Work rows 14–37 or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Even if you work more or fewer rows than in the chart, decrease on the last row following the last row of the chart. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 12 sts. The beginning of round is still at the centre of the sole.

    Break Meadow Bouquet and begin toe decreases using Lush: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Finished dimensions
    Shoe size approx. 37 (EUR)

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Twisted ribbing in the round: *k2 through back loop, p1*

    Using Lush, cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 12 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 4,5 cm.

    Work 1 round in stockinette st and increase 16 sts: increase 1 at the beginning of round, then knit all purl sts except the last one through both front and back loops = 64 sts. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 16 sts each.

    Begin striped cable pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 8 sts at the right end, then keep repeating the 8 st pattern repeat to end of round. Work rows 2–32. Note: Cable turn at the beginning of round: slip first 2 sts, work to last 2 sts. Slip these 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle. Move 2 sts to both needles. Redistribute the sts: 15 sts on needles I and IV, 17 sts on needles II and III.

    Begin heel flap: work the 15 sts of needle I in colourwork onto needle IV = 30 sts. Turn work and break off Meadow Bouquet. Use Lush to knit the heel flap.

    Next row: Slip 1 with yarn in back and purl to end, evenly decreasing 6 sts. Decreases: p2tog at all stripes knitted with Meadow Bouquet except for the middle stripe = 24 sts.

    Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *­–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1–2 a total of 13 times = 26 rows.

    Begin turning the heel: Keep working the reinforced st pattern as established. Work the RS row until 9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8 sts in the centre. When only the centre sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles. Knit the 4 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.

    Join Meadow Bouquet and resume the striped cable pattern on row 1 of chart II: On needle I, work the 4 heel flap sts following the chart, pick up 13 sts from the left end of the flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II and knit the sts through the back loop following the chart (the last heel flap st + the st picked up from in between are worked together). On needles II and III, work striped cable pattern following the chart. Pick up 1 st from between needle III and the heel + 13 sts from the right end of the heel flap. Work the sts through the back loop following the chart (the st picked up from in between and the first flap st are worked together). Work the remaining 4 sts following the chart. 68 sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 2–13 of chart II in the round. Now distribute the sts following the top of chart II. Work rows 14–37 or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Even if you work more or fewer rows than in the chart, decrease on the last row following the last row of the chart. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 12 sts. The beginning of round is still at the centre of the sole.

    Break Meadow Bouquet and begin toe decreases using Lush: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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