Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Venla: Knitted strawberry socks
As low as €6.96
These strawberry socks are the sweetest pair of the summer. The thin Novita Venla yarn is a perfect choice even for intricate and detailed colourwork patterns.
Novita Kesä 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
42
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N021742
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Size
One sizeYarn demand
Novita Venla (010) Off-white, no more than 100 g and (545) Rose hip and (337) Moss, less than 50 g of bothNeedles and other supplies
Needles Set of Novita 2,5 mm double-pointed needles or the size needed to obtain gaugeDesigner
Minna MetsänenUsing the white yarn, cast on 72 sts and distribute the sts evenly on four double-pointed needles, 18 sts on each. The beginning of the round is always between needles IV and I. Knit stockinette stitch in the round for 10 rounds. Next make the eyelet row for the folded cuff: *k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of row. Knit 3 rounds of stockinette stitch in the round.
Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart I and repeat the 6 st pattern repeat for a total of 12 times. Knit rows 2-7 of the chart and then knit 3 more rows in stockinette stitch with the white yarn.
Now fold the cuff of the sock in half along the eyelet row. Knit the cast-on edge together with the live stitches: with the left-hand needle, pick up 1 st from the first row and knit it together with the 1st st on your needles. Pick up the next stitch from the cast-on edge and knit it together with the next stitch on your needles. Work in this manner through the entire round.
Knit 5 more rounds in stockinette stitch with the white yarn and at the same time decrease 1 st from needles II and IV = 70 sts.
Begin the heel flap by knitting the stitches from needle I onto needle IV = 35 sts. Leave the rest of the sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern: 1st row: (wrong side of the work) purl all the stitches and at the same time evenly decrease 3 sts = 32 sts. Turn work. 2nd row: (right side of the work) k2, *slip 1 st with yarn in back, k1, repeat from * to end of row. Turn work. Repeat rows 1-2 for 16 more times (=34 rows) and then work row 1 once more.
Turn the heel: Continue working in the same reinforced stitch pattern as before. Knit through a RS row until 11 sts remain. Make the skp (= slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) decrease and turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog. Turn work. Slip 1, knit until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing stitches from the sides of the heel flap while the number of center sts remains the same (= 12 sts). When you have only the 12 center sts left, distribute the sts onto 2 needles, 6 sts and 6 sts.
Using a free needle, pick up 17 sts along the left edge of the heel flap and 1 st between the heel flap and needle II. Knit these stitches through the back loop onto the left needle holding the 6 heel sts. Knit through the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle that holds the other 6 sts, pick up 17 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and 1 st from between the heel flap and needle III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and then knit through the 6 heel sts.
Continue knitting with these 83 sts. Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart II and at the same time begin the gusset decreases. These decreases are marked in the chart, and on needle IV you have to make one additional decrease. On needle I knit from A to B (= 24 sts), on needles II and III knit the 35 st strawberry pattern and then on needle IV from D to E (= 24 sts). From A to B and from D to E first knit through rows 1-14 and then keep repeating rows 15-20 with the colour used for that particular row in the strawberry pattern. For the 35 st strawberry pattern repeat rows 1-12 4 times and then knit through rows 13-24.
Note: When the sole measures approx. 19 cm, begin the toe decreases. For the socks in the pictures these decreases started on row 17. During the toe decreases follow the colourwork chart until you have knitted row 24 and the last strawberries are completed. Knit the rest of the sock using the white yarn.
The wedge toe: On needles I and III knit until 3 sts remain, using the white yarn k2tog and k1. On needles II and IV k1 using the white yarn, skp with the white yarn, knit to the end of needle. For the rows between decreases knit the decreased sts and the sts between them with the white yarn. Work the decreases as before on every 2nd row until you have finished the colourwork. Then switch to working the decreases on each round. When 10 sts remain, break the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts. Weave in the yarn ends.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Steam the finished socks.
Finished dimensions
""Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Colourwork in the round: knit stockinette stitch in the round following the chart and the written instructions. Gauge 32 sts in colourwork = 10 cmUsing the white yarn, cast on 72 sts and distribute the sts evenly on four double-pointed needles, 18 sts on each. The beginning of the round is always between needles IV and I. Knit stockinette stitch in the round for 10 rounds. Next make the eyelet row for the folded cuff: *k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of row. Knit 3 rounds of stockinette stitch in the round.
Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart I and repeat the 6 st pattern repeat for a total of 12 times. Knit rows 2-7 of the chart and then knit 3 more rows in stockinette stitch with the white yarn.
Now fold the cuff of the sock in half along the eyelet row. Knit the cast-on edge together with the live stitches: with the left-hand needle, pick up 1 st from the first row and knit it together with the 1st st on your needles. Pick up the next stitch from the cast-on edge and knit it together with the next stitch on your needles. Work in this manner through the entire round.
Knit 5 more rounds in stockinette stitch with the white yarn and at the same time decrease 1 st from needles II and IV = 70 sts.
Begin the heel flap by knitting the stitches from needle I onto needle IV = 35 sts. Leave the rest of the sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern: 1st row: (wrong side of the work) purl all the stitches and at the same time evenly decrease 3 sts = 32 sts. Turn work. 2nd row: (right side of the work) k2, *slip 1 st with yarn in back, k1, repeat from * to end of row. Turn work. Repeat rows 1-2 for 16 more times (=34 rows) and then work row 1 once more.
Turn the heel: Continue working in the same reinforced stitch pattern as before. Knit through a RS row until 11 sts remain. Make the skp (= slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) decrease and turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog. Turn work. Slip 1, knit until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing stitches from the sides of the heel flap while the number of center sts remains the same (= 12 sts). When you have only the 12 center sts left, distribute the sts onto 2 needles, 6 sts and 6 sts.
Using a free needle, pick up 17 sts along the left edge of the heel flap and 1 st between the heel flap and needle II. Knit these stitches through the back loop onto the left needle holding the 6 heel sts. Knit through the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle that holds the other 6 sts, pick up 17 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and 1 st from between the heel flap and needle III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and then knit through the 6 heel sts.
Continue knitting with these 83 sts. Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart II and at the same time begin the gusset decreases. These decreases are marked in the chart, and on needle IV you have to make one additional decrease. On needle I knit from A to B (= 24 sts), on needles II and III knit the 35 st strawberry pattern and then on needle IV from D to E (= 24 sts). From A to B and from D to E first knit through rows 1-14 and then keep repeating rows 15-20 with the colour used for that particular row in the strawberry pattern. For the 35 st strawberry pattern repeat rows 1-12 4 times and then knit through rows 13-24.
Note: When the sole measures approx. 19 cm, begin the toe decreases. For the socks in the pictures these decreases started on row 17. During the toe decreases follow the colourwork chart until you have knitted row 24 and the last strawberries are completed. Knit the rest of the sock using the white yarn.
The wedge toe: On needles I and III knit until 3 sts remain, using the white yarn k2tog and k1. On needles II and IV k1 using the white yarn, skp with the white yarn, knit to the end of needle. For the rows between decreases knit the decreased sts and the sts between them with the white yarn. Work the decreases as before on every 2nd row until you have finished the colourwork. Then switch to working the decreases on each round. When 10 sts remain, break the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts. Weave in the yarn ends.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Steam the finished socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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