Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Venla: Women’s knitted sweater
As low as €5.95
Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
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N021910
Novita Venla
As low as
€6.96
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Demand Novita Venla (505) Apple Blossom 300(300)350(400)450(500) gNeedles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) or sizes needed for gauge; for the neckline edge a 40 cm (16 in) circular needle 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)Designer
Lea PetäjäUsing the smaller circular needle cast on 212(232)252(276)296(316) sts and work 5 cm of k2 p2 ribbing in the round. Switch to the larger needle. Work stockinette st in the round, evenly increasing 2 sts on the first round = 214(234)254(278)298(318) sts.
When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)41(43) cm, divide the sts into two groups: bind off the first 2(4)6(8)10(12) sts for an armhole, work the 103(109)115(123)129(135) back sts, bind off the next 4(8)12(16)20(24) sts for the other armhole, work the 103(109)115(123)129(135) front sts and bind off the first 2(4)6(8)10(12) sts on the next round for the armhole.
Leave the front sts on hold on e.g. the smaller needle and knit the back piece.
Back
Begin raglan decreases with the 103(109)115(123)129(135) back sts. On every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)2(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p (= slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 30(33)35(33)35(36)x1 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 0(0)0(1)1(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p, work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
Note: When the armhole measures 3(4)4(5)5(6) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
When you have finished the raglan decreases, bind off the remaining 43(43)45(45)47(47) sts.
Front
Begin raglan decreases with the 103(109)115(123)129(135) front sts. On every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)2(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p (= slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 27(30)32(31)33(35)x1 st at both ends: on the RS row k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Note: When the raglan decreases measure 1(2)3(3)4(5) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
Note: When you have decreased 22(25)27(30)32(34) sts at both ends and there are 59(59)61(63)65(67) sts in total, keep decreasing as established and on the next RS row leave the middle 31(31)33(35)37(39) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Keep working the raglan decreases and at the same time bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every other row at the neckline edge.
Work the other side in the same manner.
Left sleeve
Using the smaller needles cast on 54(58)58(62)62(62) sts and work 4 cm of k2 p2 ribbing in the round.
Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st, evenly increasing 3(1)1(1)3(3) sts on the first round = 57(59)59(63)65(65) sts.
When the piece measures 9(7)13(10)6(14) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2(2)2(1,5) cm 11(12)16(18)20(22) more times = 81(85)93(101)107(111) sts.
When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off 1x3(3)6(8)10(12) at both ends = 75(79)81(85)87(87) sts.
Begin the raglan decreases. At the right end decrease 30(31)31(30)30(28)x1 st on every 2nd round and then 0(1)2(3)4(6)x1 st on every 4th round. At the same time at the left end decrease 27(30)30(29)29(27)x1 st on every 2nd row and 0(0)1(2)3(5)x1 st on every 4th row as follows: on the RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Note: When the raglan decreases measure 1(2)3(3)4(5) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
When you have completed the left-side decreases, on every other row bind off 2x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts and 1x6(5)5(7)7(7) sts.
Right sleeve
Mirror the left sleeve.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams and sleeve seams.
Neckline edge: Move the sts on hold onto the circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 126(126)130(130)134(134) sts. Make sure the number of stitches is divisible by 4. Work 3 cm of k1 p1 ribbing in the round, then bind off in pattern.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 80(88)96(104)112(120) cm / 31½(34¾)37¾(41)44(47¼) in
middle back length 55(57)59(61)64(67) cm / 21¾(22½)23¼(24)25¼(26½) in
inner sleeve length 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm / 17¾(18)18½(19)19(19¼) in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns K2 p2 ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. K1 p1 ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
Gauge 26 sts and 34 rows of stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in
Note The body is knitted in one piece from the hem to the armholes.
Using the smaller circular needle cast on 212(232)252(276)296(316) sts and work 5 cm of k2 p2 ribbing in the round. Switch to the larger needle. Work stockinette st in the round, evenly increasing 2 sts on the first round = 214(234)254(278)298(318) sts.
When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)41(43) cm, divide the sts into two groups: bind off the first 2(4)6(8)10(12) sts for an armhole, work the 103(109)115(123)129(135) back sts, bind off the next 4(8)12(16)20(24) sts for the other armhole, work the 103(109)115(123)129(135) front sts and bind off the first 2(4)6(8)10(12) sts on the next round for the armhole.
Leave the front sts on hold on e.g. the smaller needle and knit the back piece.
Back
Begin raglan decreases with the 103(109)115(123)129(135) back sts. On every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)2(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p (= slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 30(33)35(33)35(36)x1 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 0(0)0(1)1(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p, work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
Note: When the armhole measures 3(4)4(5)5(6) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
When you have finished the raglan decreases, bind off the remaining 43(43)45(45)47(47) sts.
Front
Begin raglan decreases with the 103(109)115(123)129(135) front sts. On every other row decrease 0(0)0(2)2(2)x2 sts at both ends: on the RS row k2, sk2p (= slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped st over), work to last 5 sts, k3tog, k2.
On every other row decrease 27(30)32(31)33(35)x1 st at both ends: on the RS row k2, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Note: When the raglan decreases measure 1(2)3(3)4(5) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
Note: When you have decreased 22(25)27(30)32(34) sts at both ends and there are 59(59)61(63)65(67) sts in total, keep decreasing as established and on the next RS row leave the middle 31(31)33(35)37(39) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Keep working the raglan decreases and at the same time bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every other row at the neckline edge.
Work the other side in the same manner.
Left sleeve
Using the smaller needles cast on 54(58)58(62)62(62) sts and work 4 cm of k2 p2 ribbing in the round.
Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st, evenly increasing 3(1)1(1)3(3) sts on the first round = 57(59)59(63)65(65) sts.
When the piece measures 9(7)13(10)6(14) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2(2)2(1,5) cm 11(12)16(18)20(22) more times = 81(85)93(101)107(111) sts.
When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off 1x3(3)6(8)10(12) at both ends = 75(79)81(85)87(87) sts.
Begin the raglan decreases. At the right end decrease 30(31)31(30)30(28)x1 st on every 2nd round and then 0(1)2(3)4(6)x1 st on every 4th round. At the same time at the left end decrease 27(30)30(29)29(27)x1 st on every 2nd row and 0(0)1(2)3(5)x1 st on every 4th row as follows: on the RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Note: When the raglan decreases measure 1(2)3(3)4(5) cm, work 3 sts at both ends in stockinette st and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart with the other sts. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow. Use that to determine the starting point for the pattern. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–39, then work the rest of the piece in stockinette st. Make sure you have the right number of sts throughout even when increasing and decreasing at the lace section. If you decrease a yarn over at the lace, also leave out the corresponding decrease, or vice versa.
When you have completed the left-side decreases, on every other row bind off 2x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts and 1x6(5)5(7)7(7) sts.
Right sleeve
Mirror the left sleeve.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams and sleeve seams.
Neckline edge: Move the sts on hold onto the circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 126(126)130(130)134(134) sts. Make sure the number of stitches is divisible by 4. Work 3 cm of k1 p1 ribbing in the round, then bind off in pattern.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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