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Myötätuuli sweater Novita Nordic Wool

Myötätuuli sweater Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €6.90

A classic raglan sweater by Lea Petäjä. Worked in Novita Nordic Wool, this sweater will keep you warm and stylish wherever you go.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 22
Skill level Intermediate
Myötätuuli sweater Novita Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.90

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Myötätuuli sweater Novita Nordic Wool
Myötätuuli sweater Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X2022
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (010) Off White 500(550)600(650)700(750) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles
     (80 cm / 32 in and 40 cm / 16 in) Novita 3½–4 mm (UK 8–9 / US 4–6) and 4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7) or sizes needed;
     
    3½–4 mm and 4–4½ mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique
     
    Other supplies
    3 buttons


    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details
    Body
     
    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle cast on 200(216)232(248)264(280) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Knit 1 round.
     
    Switch to the larger circular needle and work textured pattern in the round as follows:
     
    Round 1: *p1, k3*, repeat *–* 49(53)57(61)65(69) more times.
     
    Round 2: (RS) knit all sts.
     
    Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
     
    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm, on the next round: work 98(104)111(117)124(132) back sts, bind off next 5(9)11(15)17(17) sts for an armhole, work 95(99)105(109)115(123) front sts, bind off last 2(4)5(7)8(8) sts + first 3(5)6(8)9(9) sts of next round for the other armhole. 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 48(48)50(52)52(54) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round and evenly increase 0(0)2(0)0(2) sts = 48(48)52(52)52(56) sts.
     
    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and and work textured pattern in the round as follows: Round 1: (RS) *p1, k3*, repeat *–* 11(11)12(12)12(13) more times. Round 2: (RS) knit all sts. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
     
    When the piece measures 9(8)9(8)8(8) cm, increase 2 sts: work 1 st, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1 st, work last st. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3(2)2(2) cm 4(1)2(21)20(21) more times and then 13(18)17(0)3(2) times every 2(2)2(0)1(1) cm = 84(88)92(96)100(104) sts. Work the increased sts following the textured pattern.
     
    When the piece measures 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm, bind off the first and last 3(4)5(6)8(8) sts of the round. Leave the other 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Yoke
     
    Place the 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts (back) + 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts (sleeve) + 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts (front) + 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts (sleeve) onto the larger circular needle = 346(358)374(386)398(422) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.
     
    Work textured pattern in the round and begin raglan decreases: on the back piece skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, k1 (sleeve), skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. On the front, skp, work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, k1 (sleeve), skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. 8 sts decreased, 338(350)366(378)390(414) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases on the front and back pieces on every other round 29(30)32(33)30(28) more times and on every other round decrease 0(0)0(0)3(6)x2 sts: at the right end k3tog; at the left end s2kp (slip 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass the slipped sts over). At the same time repeat the sleeve decreases on every other round 29(30)32(33)33(34) times.
     
    Note: When the raglan section measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm at middle front, leave the middle 5 front sts on hold for the slit. Work back and forth and work the raglan decreases on RS rows. Work the first row on the WS and increase 1 st for seaming at both ends.
     
    Note: When you have worked the raglan decreases on every other row 24(25)27(28)28(29) times (finish on a decrease row), there are 151(155)155(159)171(187) sts on the needles: 47(49)51(53)59(65) back sts, 30(30)28(28)28(30) sts on both sleeves and 22(23)24(25)28(31) sts on both fronts.
     
    On every other row bind off 1x8(9)10(11)11(11) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at both ends for the neckline. Keep working the raglan decreases at the same time.
     
    After you have finished the raglan decreases, bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the underarm seams.
     
    Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle pick up and knit 105(107)107(109)109(111) sts from along the neckline. Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing for 9 cm, then bind off in pattern.
     
    Buttonband: Pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows from the left edge of the slit and the collar. Pick up the sts from the RS and start at the bottom edge. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 sts. Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. When the ribbing measures approx. 2,5 cm (width of slit), bind off in pattern.
     
    Place markers for three buttons on the buttonband. The top one should be approx. 2 cm from the top edge and the bottom one approx. 4 cm from the bottom edge.
     
    Work the right buttonband in the same manner. When you have worked for 1 cm, make buttonholes at the marked spots. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the buttonband measures approx. 2,5 cm (width of slit), bind off in pattern.
     
    Sew the ends of the buttonbands to the bottom edge of the slit, with the right buttonband on top of the left one.
     
    Sew on the buttons.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 96(104)110(118)126(134) cm / 37¾(41)43¼(46½)49½(52¾) in
    middle back length 64(66)68(70)72(74) cm / 25¼(26)26¾(27½)28¼(29¼) in
    inner sleeve length 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm / 19¼(19¾)20(20½)20½(20¾) in
     


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Textured pattern in the round:
    Round 1: (RS) *p1, k3*, repeat *–* to end of round.
    Round 2: (RS) knit all sts. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Ribbing (flat): *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
     
    Gauge
    21 sts and 28 rows in textured pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note
    The sweater is knitted in the round, with short underarm seams.
     


    Body
     
    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle cast on 200(216)232(248)264(280) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Knit 1 round.
     
    Switch to the larger circular needle and work textured pattern in the round as follows:
     
    Round 1: *p1, k3*, repeat *–* 49(53)57(61)65(69) more times.
     
    Round 2: (RS) knit all sts.
     
    Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
     
    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm, on the next round: work 98(104)111(117)124(132) back sts, bind off next 5(9)11(15)17(17) sts for an armhole, work 95(99)105(109)115(123) front sts, bind off last 2(4)5(7)8(8) sts + first 3(5)6(8)9(9) sts of next round for the other armhole. 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 48(48)50(52)52(54) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round and evenly increase 0(0)2(0)0(2) sts = 48(48)52(52)52(56) sts.
     
    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and and work textured pattern in the round as follows: Round 1: (RS) *p1, k3*, repeat *–* 11(11)12(12)12(13) more times. Round 2: (RS) knit all sts. Keep repeating rounds 1–2.
     
    When the piece measures 9(8)9(8)8(8) cm, increase 2 sts: work 1 st, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1 st, work last st. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3(2)2(2) cm 4(1)2(21)20(21) more times and then 13(18)17(0)3(2) times every 2(2)2(0)1(1) cm = 84(88)92(96)100(104) sts. Work the increased sts following the textured pattern.
     
    When the piece measures 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm, bind off the first and last 3(4)5(6)8(8) sts of the round. Leave the other 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Yoke
     
    Place the 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts (back) + 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts (sleeve) + 95(99)105(109)115(123) sts (front) + 78(80)82(84)84(88) sts (sleeve) onto the larger circular needle = 346(358)374(386)398(422) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.
     
    Work textured pattern in the round and begin raglan decreases: on the back piece skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, k1 (sleeve), skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. On the front, skp, work to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, k1 (sleeve), skp, work to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. 8 sts decreased, 338(350)366(378)390(414) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases on the front and back pieces on every other round 29(30)32(33)30(28) more times and on every other round decrease 0(0)0(0)3(6)x2 sts: at the right end k3tog; at the left end s2kp (slip 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass the slipped sts over). At the same time repeat the sleeve decreases on every other round 29(30)32(33)33(34) times.
     
    Note: When the raglan section measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm at middle front, leave the middle 5 front sts on hold for the slit. Work back and forth and work the raglan decreases on RS rows. Work the first row on the WS and increase 1 st for seaming at both ends.
     
    Note: When you have worked the raglan decreases on every other row 24(25)27(28)28(29) times (finish on a decrease row), there are 151(155)155(159)171(187) sts on the needles: 47(49)51(53)59(65) back sts, 30(30)28(28)28(30) sts on both sleeves and 22(23)24(25)28(31) sts on both fronts.
     
    On every other row bind off 1x8(9)10(11)11(11) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at both ends for the neckline. Keep working the raglan decreases at the same time.
     
    After you have finished the raglan decreases, bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the underarm seams.
     
    Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle pick up and knit 105(107)107(109)109(111) sts from along the neckline. Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing for 9 cm, then bind off in pattern.
     
    Buttonband: Pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows from the left edge of the slit and the collar. Pick up the sts from the RS and start at the bottom edge. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 sts. Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. When the ribbing measures approx. 2,5 cm (width of slit), bind off in pattern.
     
    Place markers for three buttons on the buttonband. The top one should be approx. 2 cm from the top edge and the bottom one approx. 4 cm from the bottom edge.
     
    Work the right buttonband in the same manner. When you have worked for 1 cm, make buttonholes at the marked spots. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the buttonband measures approx. 2,5 cm (width of slit), bind off in pattern.
     
    Sew the ends of the buttonbands to the bottom edge of the slit, with the right buttonband on top of the left one.
     
    Sew on the buttons.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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