Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Moomintroll Softie Novita Muumit
As low as €6.96
There’s no other cuddle buddy like this soft, knitted Moomin troll. The Moomintroll is started at the top of the head and knitted seamlessly in the round first towards the snout and then down towards the feet. The hands, tail and ears are knitted separately.
Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
35
Expert
Availability: In stock
N021936
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Sukkapuikot: Novita nro 3 tai käsialan mukaanDesigner
Sari NordlundHead
Cast on 28 sts on 2 needles with Magic Cast On (14 sts on each needle).
Divide sts evenly between 4 needles and insert a stitch marker at the beginning of the layer. Continue to work as a closed knit.
Row 1: Work 14 sts, insert a stitch marker and work to the end of row.
Row 2: *Knit 1 st in front and back, work until 2 sts remain before the next stitch marker, work 1 st in front and back, 1 st* and repeat *-*.
3rd row.
Repeat rows 2-3 9 more times and work another row 2. 40 sts remain and there are now 72 sts in the piece.
Shape the Moomin's snout with shortened layers. Work the next section back and forth on needles as a flat piece.
Shortened round 1: Work 9 sts from the right side of the piece, turn piece and make a thread loop on needle.
2nd shortened row: *Knit from the wrong side of the piece to the stitch marker*, repeat *-* once, knit 9 sts, turn piece and at the same time thread a needle.
Work right from the right side of piece to the next stitch marker, skip stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, work right until 2 sts remain before the next stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, 1 st, skip stitch marker, work right until 2 sts remain before the next yarn wrap, turn piece and work yarn wrap on needle. There are 2 more sts in the round and there are now 74 sts in the piece.
*Keep purl from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker*, repeat *-* once, work purl until 2 sts remain before the next thread turn, turn piece and at the same time thread on needle.
Repeat shortened layers 3-4 one more time = 76 sts.
5th shortened round: work right side from RS until stitch marker, skip stitch marker and work 1 st from front and back edge, work RS until 2 sts remain before next stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, 1 st. There are 2 more sts on round and there are now 78 sts.
Continue working as a closed knit from the right side of piece.
Next row: work right on next stitch marker while working the yarn loops together with adjacent stitches [work 2 sts together correctly on left side of neck and cast on (= pick up 1 st correctly without working, work 1 st and pull the picked up st over the worked st) on right side of neck], skip stitch marker and work right until end of row.
Next, work snout. Work RS to the next stitch marker, skip stitch marker and slip the next 42 sts (= end of round) onto stitch holder for back. Cast on 10 sts = 46 sts for neck. Remove the stitch marker marking the beginning of the round, it will be repositioned on the next layer. Continue as a closed knit.
Attach a marker or detachable stitch marker in the middle of the cast on edge of neck. All measurements will be taken from here onwards.
Snout
Work 41 sts, insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of a row.
Shape the muumuu's muzzle in shortened layers. Work the next section back and forth on needles in a flat pattern.
1st shortened row: work 14 sts from the right side of the piece, turn piece and make a thread loop on needle.
2nd shortened row: work from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker, work 14 sts, turn piece and at the same time make a thread loop on needle.
Shortened round 3: Work right from the right side of piece up to the stitch marker, work right until 2 sts remain before the next yarn round, turn piece and at the same time work a yarn round on needle.
Shortened round 4: Work purl from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker, work purl until 2 sts remain before the next yarn round, turn piece and work yarn round on needle.
Repeat shortened layers 3-4 two more times.
5th shortened round: work from the right side of the piece up to the marker.
Continue working as a closed knit from the right side of the piece.
Next row: Work right row to end of row, joining the yarn loops with adjacent stitches (work 2 sts together correctly on the left side of the ch and make an overcast stitch on the right side of the ch).
Continue in stocking st until the neck measures 3.5 cm from the marker thread on the neck. Then start the inc.
Work 1 st, *knitting 9 sts, 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 4 sts in round and there are now 42 sts. Work 2 rounds of plain needle.
Dec 2: Work 1 st, *Knit 2 sts together, 2 sts*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, work 1 st. 10 sts dec in round and there are now 32 sts.
Dec 3: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-* until end of round = 8 sts have been dec in round and there are now 24 sts.
Dec 4: *K1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 6 sts on round and there are now 18 sts. Work 1 round of plain needle.
Dec 5: *Knit 1 st, cast on 1 st, work over, 3 sts, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-*. 4 sts are dec in round and there are now 14 sts.
Dec 6: *Needle 1 st, cast on 1 st, 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-*. 4 sts dec in round and there are now 10 sts.
Dec 7: Remove stitch marker and work 2 sts.
Divide the remaining sts between the 2 needles (5 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching.
Body
Pick up back stitches on needle from stitch holder. Work 21 sts, insert a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row, work the remaining 21 sts. Pick up 2 sts from the left side of neck and work right. Pick up 10 sts from cast on edge of neck and work right. Pick up 2 sts from right side of neck and work right = 56 sts. Divide sts evenly between 4 needles.
Work 22 sts, work 1 st in front and back edge, *work 3 sts, work 1 st in front and back edge*, repeat *-* 2 more times, work RS until end of round. There are 4 more sts on round and there are now 60 sts on needle.
Insert 2nd round: *10 sts, add 1 st by picking up thread between sts on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge to the right*, repeat *-* until the end of round. There are 6 more sts in the round and there are now 66 sts. Work 5 rounds of stocking sts.
Inc 3: *11 sts, add 1 st as above*, repeat *-* until end of round. Add 6 sts in round and there are now 72 sts. Work 5 rounds of stocking sts.
Inc 4: *9 sts, add 1 st as above*, repeat *-* until end of round. Continue as follows: 9 sts until end of round, then cast on 8 more sts in round and there are now 80 sts on needle.
Work in stocking st until body measures 10 cm from neck marker.
Dec 1: *8 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts in round and there are now 72 sts. Work 2 rows of stocking sts.
Dec 2: *7 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts in each round and there are now 64 sts.
Dec 3: *6 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts on round and there are now 56 sts. Work 2 rows of K2.
On the next row, separate the legs from the body. Work 3 sts, put the previous 6 sts on a stitch holder to wait and remove stitch marker at the same time. Work 22 sts and put the sts you just worked on a separate stitch holder for the right leg. Work 6 sts and slip the sts you just worked onto a separate stitch holder. Work right to the end of row. Cast on 2 sts while inserting a stitch marker between these 2 sts = beg of round. Divide sts evenly between the 3 needles and continue as a closed knit = 24 sts.
Left foot
Work 3 rows of stocking stitch.
Insert 1st round: work 5 sts, add 1 st by picking up the thread between sts on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge to the right, work 1 st, insert a stitch marker, work 1 st, add 1 st by picking up the thread between sts on left needle from the front edge and working it around to the right, work plain needle to the end of round. There are 2 sts more in the round and there are now 26 sts. Work 1 round of stocking st.
Insert 2nd round: work right until 1 st remains before the next stitch marker, add 1 st by picking up the thread between the stitches on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge in the right way, work 1 st, skip stitch marker, work 1 st, add 1 st by picking up the thread between the stitches on left needle from the front edge and working it in the right way round, work in stocking stitch until the end of round. There are 2 sts more in the round and there are now 28 sts.
Repeat inc as above every 2nd round 3 more times = 34 sts.
Sole
The footbed is shaped with shortened layers. The next section is worked flat back and forth on needles. Decrease the number of sts on every round by 1 st.
1st shortened row.
Shortened row 2: Bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st without working, work 6 sts from the wrong side of piece, work 2 sts together and turn piece = 32 sts.
Bind off 1 st, work 7 sts from right side of piece, cast off and turn piece = 31 sts.
Bring the yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 8 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 30 sts.
5. shortened row: pick up 1 st and work 9 sts from right side of piece, cast on and turn piece = 29 sts.
6. shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 10 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 28 sts.
Shortened round 7: Pick up 1 st and work 10 sts from right side of piece, cast on and turn piece = 27 sts.
8. shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st without working, work 10 sts from the wrong side of piece, work 2 sts together and turn piece = 26 sts.
Repeat shortened rows 7-8 2 more times and at the same time remove the stitch marker from the beginning of row = 22 sts.
9. shortened round: pick up 1 st, cast off from right side of piece, work 6 sts, knit 2 sts together, cast off and turn piece = 19 sts.
Round 10: Bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 8 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 18 sts.
11. shortened row.
12: Shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 6 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 14 sts.
Cut the remaining sts evenly on 2 needles (7 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching. Slip stitch the edges of the heel together.
Right foot
Put the sts of the right leg back on needle. Work 11 sts, insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the row, work 11 sts and cast on 2 new sts. Work stocking stitch up to the stitch marker.
Work right foot as for left foot.
Hands
Cast on 18 sts and divide sts evenly on 3 needles (6 sts on each needle). Insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Hands are worked as a closed knit.
Work in stocking stitch until arm measures 5 cm from cast on edge.
Next row: work 8 sts, put the next 2 sts on stitch holder for thumb, work to end of row = 16 sts.
Work 1 dec: *K1 st, 2 sts together, 2 sts, cast off and work 1 st*, repeat *-* once. Dec 4 sts in a round and there are now 12 sts. Work 1 round of plain needle.
Dec 2: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, work 1 st over and 1 st*, repeat *-* once. Dec 4 sts in round and there are now 8 sts.
Divide the remaining sts evenly between the 2 needles (4 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching. Slip the fingertips together.
Thumb
Pick up 2 sts from stitch holder on thumb back on needle. Pick up 2 more sts = 4 sts from the thumb root on needle for work. Leave all sts on one needle.
Work all stitches in stocking stitch. *Do not turn piece, but slip sts back on needle. Keep the yarn in the back of the piece and work the stitches in a smooth knit*. Repeat *-* two more times.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten the end of the yarn carefully.
Work the other arm in the same way.
Ears
Cast on 18 sts and divide sts evenly on 3 needles (6 sts on each needle). Insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the row. Ears are worked as a closed knit.
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch.
Dec 1: Work 1 st, 2 sts together, work right until 3 sts remain, cast off and work 1 st = 16 sts.
Work 1 round of stocking sts and on next round repeat dec as above = 14 sts.
2nd round of dec: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st, cast off and work 1 st*, repeat *-* once = 10 sts.
Dec 3: *K1 st, pick up a stitch without knitting, knit 2 sts together, pull the picked up stitch over the needle, and 1 st*, repeat *-* once = 6 sts.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten off the end of the thread carefully.
Work the other ear in the same way.
Tail
Cast on 5 sts on one needle. Work stocking stitch on all stitches. *Do not turn piece, but slip sts back on right side of needle. Keep the yarn behind the piece and work in stitches to make a smooth*. Repeat *-* until the tail measures approx. 10 cm.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten the end of the yarn carefully. Cut 4 pieces of yarn approx. 8 cm long. Place all the threads together and fold in two. Using a crochet hook, for example, pull the threads through the end of the tail, folded side up. Slip the open ends through the folded end and tighten tightly.
Finishing
Stuff the head, body and legs of the muumuu. Shape the muzzle as you stuff it, emphasising its curvature. Pick up the remaining 12 sts from the stitch holders on 2 needles (6 sts on each needle), and knit them together. Sew the openings at the feet together.
Fill in the arms and sew them to the sides of the body with thumbs up. If you wish, you can embroider fingers on the mummy.
Attach the ears to the top of the mummy's head with a slender edge towards the outer edge of the head. Attach the tail.
Finally, embroider the mummy's eyes with thin black thread.
Finished dimensions
Height from the feet to top of the head: 28 cmStitch patterns & gauge
Gauge: 23 sts and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 cmHead
Cast on 28 sts on 2 needles with Magic Cast On (14 sts on each needle).
Divide sts evenly between 4 needles and insert a stitch marker at the beginning of the layer. Continue to work as a closed knit.
Row 1: Work 14 sts, insert a stitch marker and work to the end of row.
Row 2: *Knit 1 st in front and back, work until 2 sts remain before the next stitch marker, work 1 st in front and back, 1 st* and repeat *-*.
3rd row.
Repeat rows 2-3 9 more times and work another row 2. 40 sts remain and there are now 72 sts in the piece.
Shape the Moomin's snout with shortened layers. Work the next section back and forth on needles as a flat piece.
Shortened round 1: Work 9 sts from the right side of the piece, turn piece and make a thread loop on needle.
2nd shortened row: *Knit from the wrong side of the piece to the stitch marker*, repeat *-* once, knit 9 sts, turn piece and at the same time thread a needle.
Work right from the right side of piece to the next stitch marker, skip stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, work right until 2 sts remain before the next stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, 1 st, skip stitch marker, work right until 2 sts remain before the next yarn wrap, turn piece and work yarn wrap on needle. There are 2 more sts in the round and there are now 74 sts in the piece.
*Keep purl from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker*, repeat *-* once, work purl until 2 sts remain before the next thread turn, turn piece and at the same time thread on needle.
Repeat shortened layers 3-4 one more time = 76 sts.
5th shortened round: work right side from RS until stitch marker, skip stitch marker and work 1 st from front and back edge, work RS until 2 sts remain before next stitch marker, work 1 st from front and back edge, 1 st. There are 2 more sts on round and there are now 78 sts.
Continue working as a closed knit from the right side of piece.
Next row: work right on next stitch marker while working the yarn loops together with adjacent stitches [work 2 sts together correctly on left side of neck and cast on (= pick up 1 st correctly without working, work 1 st and pull the picked up st over the worked st) on right side of neck], skip stitch marker and work right until end of row.
Next, work snout. Work RS to the next stitch marker, skip stitch marker and slip the next 42 sts (= end of round) onto stitch holder for back. Cast on 10 sts = 46 sts for neck. Remove the stitch marker marking the beginning of the round, it will be repositioned on the next layer. Continue as a closed knit.
Attach a marker or detachable stitch marker in the middle of the cast on edge of neck. All measurements will be taken from here onwards.
Snout
Work 41 sts, insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of a row.
Shape the muumuu's muzzle in shortened layers. Work the next section back and forth on needles in a flat pattern.
1st shortened row: work 14 sts from the right side of the piece, turn piece and make a thread loop on needle.
2nd shortened row: work from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker, work 14 sts, turn piece and at the same time make a thread loop on needle.
Shortened round 3: Work right from the right side of piece up to the stitch marker, work right until 2 sts remain before the next yarn round, turn piece and at the same time work a yarn round on needle.
Shortened round 4: Work purl from the wrong side of the piece up to the stitch marker, work purl until 2 sts remain before the next yarn round, turn piece and work yarn round on needle.
Repeat shortened layers 3-4 two more times.
5th shortened round: work from the right side of the piece up to the marker.
Continue working as a closed knit from the right side of the piece.
Next row: Work right row to end of row, joining the yarn loops with adjacent stitches (work 2 sts together correctly on the left side of the ch and make an overcast stitch on the right side of the ch).
Continue in stocking st until the neck measures 3.5 cm from the marker thread on the neck. Then start the inc.
Work 1 st, *knitting 9 sts, 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 4 sts in round and there are now 42 sts. Work 2 rounds of plain needle.
Dec 2: Work 1 st, *Knit 2 sts together, 2 sts*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, work 1 st. 10 sts dec in round and there are now 32 sts.
Dec 3: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-* until end of round = 8 sts have been dec in round and there are now 24 sts.
Dec 4: *K1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 6 sts on round and there are now 18 sts. Work 1 round of plain needle.
Dec 5: *Knit 1 st, cast on 1 st, work over, 3 sts, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-*. 4 sts are dec in round and there are now 14 sts.
Dec 6: *Needle 1 st, cast on 1 st, 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st*, repeat *-*. 4 sts dec in round and there are now 10 sts.
Dec 7: Remove stitch marker and work 2 sts.
Divide the remaining sts between the 2 needles (5 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching.
Body
Pick up back stitches on needle from stitch holder. Work 21 sts, insert a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row, work the remaining 21 sts. Pick up 2 sts from the left side of neck and work right. Pick up 10 sts from cast on edge of neck and work right. Pick up 2 sts from right side of neck and work right = 56 sts. Divide sts evenly between 4 needles.
Work 22 sts, work 1 st in front and back edge, *work 3 sts, work 1 st in front and back edge*, repeat *-* 2 more times, work RS until end of round. There are 4 more sts on round and there are now 60 sts on needle.
Insert 2nd round: *10 sts, add 1 st by picking up thread between sts on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge to the right*, repeat *-* until the end of round. There are 6 more sts in the round and there are now 66 sts. Work 5 rounds of stocking sts.
Inc 3: *11 sts, add 1 st as above*, repeat *-* until end of round. Add 6 sts in round and there are now 72 sts. Work 5 rounds of stocking sts.
Inc 4: *9 sts, add 1 st as above*, repeat *-* until end of round. Continue as follows: 9 sts until end of round, then cast on 8 more sts in round and there are now 80 sts on needle.
Work in stocking st until body measures 10 cm from neck marker.
Dec 1: *8 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts in round and there are now 72 sts. Work 2 rows of stocking sts.
Dec 2: *7 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts in each round and there are now 64 sts.
Dec 3: *6 sts, work 2 sts together*, repeat *-* until end of round. Dec 8 sts on round and there are now 56 sts. Work 2 rows of K2.
On the next row, separate the legs from the body. Work 3 sts, put the previous 6 sts on a stitch holder to wait and remove stitch marker at the same time. Work 22 sts and put the sts you just worked on a separate stitch holder for the right leg. Work 6 sts and slip the sts you just worked onto a separate stitch holder. Work right to the end of row. Cast on 2 sts while inserting a stitch marker between these 2 sts = beg of round. Divide sts evenly between the 3 needles and continue as a closed knit = 24 sts.
Left foot
Work 3 rows of stocking stitch.
Insert 1st round: work 5 sts, add 1 st by picking up the thread between sts on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge to the right, work 1 st, insert a stitch marker, work 1 st, add 1 st by picking up the thread between sts on left needle from the front edge and working it around to the right, work plain needle to the end of round. There are 2 sts more in the round and there are now 26 sts. Work 1 round of stocking st.
Insert 2nd round: work right until 1 st remains before the next stitch marker, add 1 st by picking up the thread between the stitches on left needle from the back and working it from the front edge in the right way, work 1 st, skip stitch marker, work 1 st, add 1 st by picking up the thread between the stitches on left needle from the front edge and working it in the right way round, work in stocking stitch until the end of round. There are 2 sts more in the round and there are now 28 sts.
Repeat inc as above every 2nd round 3 more times = 34 sts.
Sole
The footbed is shaped with shortened layers. The next section is worked flat back and forth on needles. Decrease the number of sts on every round by 1 st.
1st shortened row.
Shortened row 2: Bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st without working, work 6 sts from the wrong side of piece, work 2 sts together and turn piece = 32 sts.
Bind off 1 st, work 7 sts from right side of piece, cast off and turn piece = 31 sts.
Bring the yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 8 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 30 sts.
5. shortened row: pick up 1 st and work 9 sts from right side of piece, cast on and turn piece = 29 sts.
6. shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 10 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 28 sts.
Shortened round 7: Pick up 1 st and work 10 sts from right side of piece, cast on and turn piece = 27 sts.
8. shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st without working, work 10 sts from the wrong side of piece, work 2 sts together and turn piece = 26 sts.
Repeat shortened rows 7-8 2 more times and at the same time remove the stitch marker from the beginning of row = 22 sts.
9. shortened round: pick up 1 st, cast off from right side of piece, work 6 sts, knit 2 sts together, cast off and turn piece = 19 sts.
Round 10: Bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 8 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 18 sts.
11. shortened row.
12: Shortened row: bring yarn to the front and pick up 1 st, work 6 sts from the wrong side of piece, knit 2 sts together and turn piece = 14 sts.
Cut the remaining sts evenly on 2 needles (7 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching. Slip stitch the edges of the heel together.
Right foot
Put the sts of the right leg back on needle. Work 11 sts, insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the row, work 11 sts and cast on 2 new sts. Work stocking stitch up to the stitch marker.
Work right foot as for left foot.
Hands
Cast on 18 sts and divide sts evenly on 3 needles (6 sts on each needle). Insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Hands are worked as a closed knit.
Work in stocking stitch until arm measures 5 cm from cast on edge.
Next row: work 8 sts, put the next 2 sts on stitch holder for thumb, work to end of row = 16 sts.
Work 1 dec: *K1 st, 2 sts together, 2 sts, cast off and work 1 st*, repeat *-* once. Dec 4 sts in a round and there are now 12 sts. Work 1 round of plain needle.
Dec 2: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, work 1 st over and 1 st*, repeat *-* once. Dec 4 sts in round and there are now 8 sts.
Divide the remaining sts evenly between the 2 needles (4 sts on each needle) and cut the yarn so that there is enough yarn left for stitching. Slip the fingertips together.
Thumb
Pick up 2 sts from stitch holder on thumb back on needle. Pick up 2 more sts = 4 sts from the thumb root on needle for work. Leave all sts on one needle.
Work all stitches in stocking stitch. *Do not turn piece, but slip sts back on needle. Keep the yarn in the back of the piece and work the stitches in a smooth knit*. Repeat *-* two more times.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten the end of the yarn carefully.
Work the other arm in the same way.
Ears
Cast on 18 sts and divide sts evenly on 3 needles (6 sts on each needle). Insert a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the row. Ears are worked as a closed knit.
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch.
Dec 1: Work 1 st, 2 sts together, work right until 3 sts remain, cast off and work 1 st = 16 sts.
Work 1 round of stocking sts and on next round repeat dec as above = 14 sts.
2nd round of dec: *Knit 1 st, 2 sts together, 1 st, cast off and work 1 st*, repeat *-* once = 10 sts.
Dec 3: *K1 st, pick up a stitch without knitting, knit 2 sts together, pull the picked up stitch over the needle, and 1 st*, repeat *-* once = 6 sts.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten off the end of the thread carefully.
Work the other ear in the same way.
Tail
Cast on 5 sts on one needle. Work stocking stitch on all stitches. *Do not turn piece, but slip sts back on right side of needle. Keep the yarn behind the piece and work in stitches to make a smooth*. Repeat *-* until the tail measures approx. 10 cm.
Cut the yarn and thread it through the stitches. Tighten and fasten the end of the yarn carefully. Cut 4 pieces of yarn approx. 8 cm long. Place all the threads together and fold in two. Using a crochet hook, for example, pull the threads through the end of the tail, folded side up. Slip the open ends through the folded end and tighten tightly.
Finishing
Stuff the head, body and legs of the muumuu. Shape the muzzle as you stuff it, emphasising its curvature. Pick up the remaining 12 sts from the stitch holders on 2 needles (6 sts on each needle), and knit them together. Sew the openings at the feet together.
Fill in the arms and sew them to the sides of the body with thumbs up. If you wish, you can embroider fingers on the mummy.
Attach the ears to the top of the mummy's head with a slender edge towards the outer edge of the head. Attach the tail.
Finally, embroider the mummy's eyes with thin black thread.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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