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Moomintroll softie Novita Muumit

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There's no cuddle buddy like this soft, knitted Moomin troll. The Moomintroll is started at the top of the head and knitted seamlessly in the round first towards the snout and then down towards the feet. The hands, tail and ears are knitted separately.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 35
Skill level Expert
Moomintroll softie Novita Muumit
€7.50

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Moomintroll softie Novita Muumit
Moomintroll softie Novita Muumit

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N021936
    Pattern details
    Size
    one size

    Yarn demand
    Novita Moominhouse
    (007) Moomintroll 100g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    3 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Head

    CO 28 sts (14 sts per needle) with Judy’s Magic Cast On method. Divide sts onto four needles. Pm for BOR and join the work in the round.

    Round 1: K14, pm for side, k until end.

    Round 2: (Kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm) x 2. (4 sts inc’d, 32 sts)

    Round 3: K all.

    Repeat rounds 2–3 nine more times and then round 2 one more time. (40 sts inc’d, 72 sts)

    Shape the snout with short rows. The next section will be worked flat, back and forth on the needles.

    Short row 1 (RS): K9, w&t.

    Short row 2 (WS): (P to next m, sm) x 2, p9, w&t.

    Short row 3 (RS): K to next m, sm, kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm, k until 2 sts remain before the next wrapped st, w&t. (2 sts inc’d, 74 sts)

    Short row 4 (WS): (P to next m, sm) x 2, p until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Repeat rows 3–4 one more time. (76 sts)

    Next row: K to next m, sm, kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm. (2 sts inc’d, 78 sts)

    Continue working in the round.

    Next round: K to next m working the wraps together with their corresponding sts (k2tog when the wrap is after the st and ssk when the wrap is before the st), sm, k to end.

    Separating the snout and the body

    Next round: K until next m, rm, put the next 42 sts (remaining sts) on hold for the back and CO 10 sts with the Backwards Loop Cast On method for neck. Remove the BOR m, you will replace it on the following round. Join in the round. Divide sts evenly onto the needles. (46 sts)

    Place a removable marker at the middle of the neck CO edge. All measurements will be taken from this point from now on.

    Snout

    Round 1: K41, pm for BOR.

    Shape the snout with short rows. The next section will be worked flat, back and forth on the needles.

    Short row 1 (RS): K14, w&t.

    Short row 2 (WS): P until next m, sm, p14, w&t.

    Short row 3 (RS): K until next m, sm, k until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Short row 4 (WS): P until m, sm, p until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Repeat rows 3-4 two more times.

    Next row: K to m, sm.

    Continue working in the round.

    Next round: K to end working the wraps together with their corresponding sts (k2tog when the wrap is after the st and ssk when the wrap is before the st), sm.

    Continue in stockinette st in the round until the snout measures 3.5 cm from the removable marker at the neck.

    Round 1 (decrease): K1, *K9, k2tog; repeat from * until 1 st remains, k1. (4 sts dec’d, 42 sts)

    Rounds 2–3: K all.

    Round 4 (decrease): K1, *k2tog, k2; repeat from * until 1 st remains, k1. (10 sts dec’d, 32 sts)

    Rounds 5–6: K all.

    Round 7 (decrease): *K1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 24 sts)

    Rounds 8–9: K all.

    Round 10 (decrease): *K1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * until end. (6 sts dec’d, 18 sts)

    Round 11: K all.

    Round 12 (decrease): (K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 14 sts)

    Round 13 (decrease): (K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 10 sts)

    Round 14: Remove BOR m, k2. Cut the yarn leaving an end of at least 20 cm of length. Divide sts evenly onto 2 needles (5 sts per needle) and graft the end of the snout together with Kitchener stitch.

    Body

    Take the 42 sts held for the body back onto the needles, k21, pm for BOR, k21. Pick up and knit 2 sts from the gap between the sts and the CO edge for the neck. Pick up and knit 10 sts along the CO edge (1 st per each st) and 2 sts from the gap between the CO edge and the sts for the back. K until the BOR m. Divide sts evenly onto the needles. (56 sts)

    Round 1: K22, kfb, (k3, kfb) x 3, k to end. (4 sts inc’d, 60 sts)

    Rounds 2–5: K all.

    Round 6 (increase): *K10, m1R; repeat from * until end. (6 sts inc’d, 66 sts)

    Rounds 7–11: K all.

    Round 12 (increase): *K11, m1R; repeat from * until end. (6 sts inc’d, 72 sts)

    Rounds 13–17: K all.

    Round 18 (increase): *K9, m1R; repeat from * until end. (8 sts inc’d, 80 sts)

    Continue in stockinette st until the body measures 10 cm from the removable marker at the neck.

    Round 1 (decrease): *K8, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 72 sts)

    Round 2–3: K all.

    Round 4 (decrease): *K7, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 64 sts)

    Round 5–6: K all.

    Round 7 (decrease): *K6, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 56 sts)

    Round 8–9: K all.

    Separating the feet

    Next round: K3, put the previous 6 sts on hold on a piece of waste yarn removing the BOR m. K22 and put them on hold on a second piece of waste yarn. K6 and put them on hold on a third piece of waste yarn. K until end. CO 2 sts with the Backwards Loop Cast On method placing the BOR m between these two sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles. (24 sts)

    Left foot

    Rounds 1–3: K all.

    Round 4 (increase) K5, m1R, k1, pm, k1, m1L, k until end. (2 sts inc’d, 26 sts)

    Round 5: K all.

    Round 6 (increase): K until 1 st remains before the next m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k until end. (2 sts inc’d, 28 sts)

    Repeat rounds 5–6 two more times and then round 5 one more time. (34 sts)

    Sole

    The sole is shaped with short rows by working flat, back and forth on the needles. The stitch count decreases by 1 st on each row.

    Row 1 (RS): K until next m, rm, k3, ssk, turn. (33 sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p6, p2tog, turn. (32 sts)

    Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k7, ssk, turn. (31 sts)

    Row 4 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p8, p2tog, turn. (30 sts)

    Row 5 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k9, ssk, turn. (29 sts)

    Row 6 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p10, p2tog, turn. (28 sts)

    Row 7 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k10, ssk, turn. (27 sts)

    Row 8 (WS): As row 6. (26 sts)

    Repeat rows 7–8 2 more times removing the BOR m as you encounter it. (22 sts)

    Row 9 (RS): Sl1 wyib, ssk, k6, k2tog, ssk, turn. (3 sts dec’d, 19 sts)

    Row 10 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p8, p2tog, turn. (18 sts)

    Row 11 (RS): Sl1 wyib, ssk, k4, k2tog, ssk, turn. (3 sts dec’d, 15 sts)

    Row 12 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p6, p2tog, turn. (14 sts)

    Divide the sts evenly onto 2 needles (7 sts per needle) and graft the heel together with Kitchener stitch.

    Right foot

    Take the 22 sts held for the second foot back onto your needles. K11, pm for BOR, k11, CO 2 sts with the Backward Loop Cast On method. K until BOR m.

    Work the right foot as established for the left foot.

    Hands (make 2)

    CO 18 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles (6 sts per needle). Pm for BOR and join in the round.

    Round 1: K all sts.

    Work in stockinette st until the piece measures 5 cm from the CO edge.

    Round 2 (separating the thumb): K8, put next 2 sts on hold for the thumb, k until end. (16 sts)

    Continue in stockinette st for another two more rounds.

    Round 3 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 12 sts)

    Round 4: K all sts.

    Round 5 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 8 sts)

    Divide the sts evenly onto 2 needles (4 sts per needle) and graft the fingertips together with Kitchener stitch.

    Thumb

    Place the 2 sts held for the thumb back on the needles and knit them. Pick up and knit 2 sts from the gap between the thumb and the hand. Do not turn the work. (4 sts)

    Work the thumb as an i-cord on two needles. *Slide the sts to the right side of the needle and keep the yarn in back. Without turning the work k all sts again. Repeat from * another two more times.

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Work the second hand accordingly.

    Ears

    CO 18 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles. Pm for BOR and join in the round.

    Rounds 1–6: K all sts.

    Round 7 (decrease): K1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d, 16 sts)

    Round 8: K all sts.

    Repeat rounds 7–8 one more time. (2 sts dec’d, 14 sts)

    Round 11 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 10 sts)

    Round 12: K all.

    Round 13 (decrease): (K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 6 sts).

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Work the second ear accordingly.

    Tail

    CO 5 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Do not turn the work. Work the tail as an i-cord on two needles. *Slide the sts to the right side of the needle and keep the yarn in back. Without turning the work, k all sts again. Repeat from * until the tail measures 10 cm or the desired length.

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Cut 4 strands of (about 8 cm each) yarn. Fold the yarns double. Using a crochet hook pull the folded end of the yarn bundle through the tip of the tail forming a loop. Pull the loose ends of the yarns through the loop and pull tight. Cut the yarn ends to desired length.

    Assembly

    Stuff the Moomin’s head, body and feet. Try not to stuff the snout too much to maintain the slight curve obtained by the short-row shaping on top of the snout. Put the remaining 12 sts held on waste yarn at the bottom of the body back onto two needles, (6 sts per needle) and graft them together using Kitchener stitch. Use the yarn ends to sew the gaps on the side of the feet close.

    Stuff the hands, and attach them to the sides of the body, thumbs facing upwards. Use a piece of yarn to embroider the fingers.

    Attach the ears to the top of the head with the sloped edge facing to the side of the head. Attach the tail.

    Using black yarn embroider the eyes.

    Weave in all remaining yarn ends.

    Abbreviations:

    BOR Beginning of the round

    CO Cast on

    dec’d Decreased

    inc’d Increased

    k Knit

    p Purl

    k2tog Knit 2 sts together

    ssk Slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together

    st(s) Stitch(es)

    m Marker

    m1L Make 1 st by lifting the yarn between the two sts from front to back and knitting it through the back loop (increases 1 st)

    m1R Make 1 st by lifting the yarn between the two sts from back to front and knitting it through the front loop (increases 1 st)

    p2tog Purl 2 sts together (decreases 1 st)

    pm Place a marker

    rm Remove marker

    RS Right side

    sl Slip

    sl1, k2tog, psso Slip 1, knit the next 2 sts together, pass the slipped st over the previous st

    sm Slip marker

    kfb Knit the stitch through the front loop, then though the back loop (increases 1 st)

    WS Wrong side

    wyib With yarn in back

    wyif With yarn in front

    w&t Wrap and turn. (Slip the next st on the right needle as if to purl, bring yarn to front, slip the st back to left needle and bring yarn to back. Turn the work.)

    * Repeat from here

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Height from the feet to top of the head: 28 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    -Stockinette stitch in the round: Knit all rounds.
    -Stockinette stitch flat, back and forth: On RS rows: k all sts; on WS rows: purl all sts.

    Gauge:
    23 sts and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 cm

    Note:
    The Moomintroll is started at the top of the head and knitted seamlessly in the round first towards the snout and then down towards the feet. The hands, tail and ears are knitted separately. The eyes and fingers are embroidered on the finished object.



    Head

    CO 28 sts (14 sts per needle) with Judy’s Magic Cast On method. Divide sts onto four needles. Pm for BOR and join the work in the round.

    Round 1: K14, pm for side, k until end.

    Round 2: (Kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm) x 2. (4 sts inc’d, 32 sts)

    Round 3: K all.

    Repeat rounds 2–3 nine more times and then round 2 one more time. (40 sts inc’d, 72 sts)

    Shape the snout with short rows. The next section will be worked flat, back and forth on the needles.

    Short row 1 (RS): K9, w&t.

    Short row 2 (WS): (P to next m, sm) x 2, p9, w&t.

    Short row 3 (RS): K to next m, sm, kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm, k until 2 sts remain before the next wrapped st, w&t. (2 sts inc’d, 74 sts)

    Short row 4 (WS): (P to next m, sm) x 2, p until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Repeat rows 3–4 one more time. (76 sts)

    Next row: K to next m, sm, kfb, k until 2 sts remain before next m, kfb, k1, sm. (2 sts inc’d, 78 sts)

    Continue working in the round.

    Next round: K to next m working the wraps together with their corresponding sts (k2tog when the wrap is after the st and ssk when the wrap is before the st), sm, k to end.

    Separating the snout and the body

    Next round: K until next m, rm, put the next 42 sts (remaining sts) on hold for the back and CO 10 sts with the Backwards Loop Cast On method for neck. Remove the BOR m, you will replace it on the following round. Join in the round. Divide sts evenly onto the needles. (46 sts)

    Place a removable marker at the middle of the neck CO edge. All measurements will be taken from this point from now on.

    Snout

    Round 1: K41, pm for BOR.

    Shape the snout with short rows. The next section will be worked flat, back and forth on the needles.

    Short row 1 (RS): K14, w&t.

    Short row 2 (WS): P until next m, sm, p14, w&t.

    Short row 3 (RS): K until next m, sm, k until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Short row 4 (WS): P until m, sm, p until 2 sts remain before next wrapped st, w&t.

    Repeat rows 3-4 two more times.

    Next row: K to m, sm.

    Continue working in the round.

    Next round: K to end working the wraps together with their corresponding sts (k2tog when the wrap is after the st and ssk when the wrap is before the st), sm.

    Continue in stockinette st in the round until the snout measures 3.5 cm from the removable marker at the neck.

    Round 1 (decrease): K1, *K9, k2tog; repeat from * until 1 st remains, k1. (4 sts dec’d, 42 sts)

    Rounds 2–3: K all.

    Round 4 (decrease): K1, *k2tog, k2; repeat from * until 1 st remains, k1. (10 sts dec’d, 32 sts)

    Rounds 5–6: K all.

    Round 7 (decrease): *K1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 24 sts)

    Rounds 8–9: K all.

    Round 10 (decrease): *K1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * until end. (6 sts dec’d, 18 sts)

    Round 11: K all.

    Round 12 (decrease): (K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 14 sts)

    Round 13 (decrease): (K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 10 sts)

    Round 14: Remove BOR m, k2. Cut the yarn leaving an end of at least 20 cm of length. Divide sts evenly onto 2 needles (5 sts per needle) and graft the end of the snout together with Kitchener stitch.

    Body

    Take the 42 sts held for the body back onto the needles, k21, pm for BOR, k21. Pick up and knit 2 sts from the gap between the sts and the CO edge for the neck. Pick up and knit 10 sts along the CO edge (1 st per each st) and 2 sts from the gap between the CO edge and the sts for the back. K until the BOR m. Divide sts evenly onto the needles. (56 sts)

    Round 1: K22, kfb, (k3, kfb) x 3, k to end. (4 sts inc’d, 60 sts)

    Rounds 2–5: K all.

    Round 6 (increase): *K10, m1R; repeat from * until end. (6 sts inc’d, 66 sts)

    Rounds 7–11: K all.

    Round 12 (increase): *K11, m1R; repeat from * until end. (6 sts inc’d, 72 sts)

    Rounds 13–17: K all.

    Round 18 (increase): *K9, m1R; repeat from * until end. (8 sts inc’d, 80 sts)

    Continue in stockinette st until the body measures 10 cm from the removable marker at the neck.

    Round 1 (decrease): *K8, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 72 sts)

    Round 2–3: K all.

    Round 4 (decrease): *K7, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 64 sts)

    Round 5–6: K all.

    Round 7 (decrease): *K6, k2tog; repeat from * until end. (8 sts dec’d, 56 sts)

    Round 8–9: K all.

    Separating the feet

    Next round: K3, put the previous 6 sts on hold on a piece of waste yarn removing the BOR m. K22 and put them on hold on a second piece of waste yarn. K6 and put them on hold on a third piece of waste yarn. K until end. CO 2 sts with the Backwards Loop Cast On method placing the BOR m between these two sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles. (24 sts)

    Left foot

    Rounds 1–3: K all.

    Round 4 (increase) K5, m1R, k1, pm, k1, m1L, k until end. (2 sts inc’d, 26 sts)

    Round 5: K all.

    Round 6 (increase): K until 1 st remains before the next m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k until end. (2 sts inc’d, 28 sts)

    Repeat rounds 5–6 two more times and then round 5 one more time. (34 sts)

    Sole

    The sole is shaped with short rows by working flat, back and forth on the needles. The stitch count decreases by 1 st on each row.

    Row 1 (RS): K until next m, rm, k3, ssk, turn. (33 sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p6, p2tog, turn. (32 sts)

    Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k7, ssk, turn. (31 sts)

    Row 4 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p8, p2tog, turn. (30 sts)

    Row 5 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k9, ssk, turn. (29 sts)

    Row 6 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p10, p2tog, turn. (28 sts)

    Row 7 (RS): Sl1 wyib, k10, ssk, turn. (27 sts)

    Row 8 (WS): As row 6. (26 sts)

    Repeat rows 7–8 2 more times removing the BOR m as you encounter it. (22 sts)

    Row 9 (RS): Sl1 wyib, ssk, k6, k2tog, ssk, turn. (3 sts dec’d, 19 sts)

    Row 10 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p8, p2tog, turn. (18 sts)

    Row 11 (RS): Sl1 wyib, ssk, k4, k2tog, ssk, turn. (3 sts dec’d, 15 sts)

    Row 12 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p6, p2tog, turn. (14 sts)

    Divide the sts evenly onto 2 needles (7 sts per needle) and graft the heel together with Kitchener stitch.

    Right foot

    Take the 22 sts held for the second foot back onto your needles. K11, pm for BOR, k11, CO 2 sts with the Backward Loop Cast On method. K until BOR m.

    Work the right foot as established for the left foot.

    Hands (make 2)

    CO 18 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles (6 sts per needle). Pm for BOR and join in the round.

    Round 1: K all sts.

    Work in stockinette st until the piece measures 5 cm from the CO edge.

    Round 2 (separating the thumb): K8, put next 2 sts on hold for the thumb, k until end. (16 sts)

    Continue in stockinette st for another two more rounds.

    Round 3 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 12 sts)

    Round 4: K all sts.

    Round 5 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 8 sts)

    Divide the sts evenly onto 2 needles (4 sts per needle) and graft the fingertips together with Kitchener stitch.

    Thumb

    Place the 2 sts held for the thumb back on the needles and knit them. Pick up and knit 2 sts from the gap between the thumb and the hand. Do not turn the work. (4 sts)

    Work the thumb as an i-cord on two needles. *Slide the sts to the right side of the needle and keep the yarn in back. Without turning the work k all sts again. Repeat from * another two more times.

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Work the second hand accordingly.

    Ears

    CO 18 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles. Pm for BOR and join in the round.

    Rounds 1–6: K all sts.

    Round 7 (decrease): K1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d, 16 sts)

    Round 8: K all sts.

    Repeat rounds 7–8 one more time. (2 sts dec’d, 14 sts)

    Round 11 (decrease): (K1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 10 sts)

    Round 12: K all.

    Round 13 (decrease): (K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1) x 2. (4 sts dec’d, 6 sts).

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Work the second ear accordingly.

    Tail

    CO 5 sts with the Long Tail Cast On method. Do not turn the work. Work the tail as an i-cord on two needles. *Slide the sts to the right side of the needle and keep the yarn in back. Without turning the work, k all sts again. Repeat from * until the tail measures 10 cm or the desired length.

    Cut the yarn and pull it through the live sts. Secure the end tightly.

    Cut 4 strands of (about 8 cm each) yarn. Fold the yarns double. Using a crochet hook pull the folded end of the yarn bundle through the tip of the tail forming a loop. Pull the loose ends of the yarns through the loop and pull tight. Cut the yarn ends to desired length.

    Assembly

    Stuff the Moomin’s head, body and feet. Try not to stuff the snout too much to maintain the slight curve obtained by the short-row shaping on top of the snout. Put the remaining 12 sts held on waste yarn at the bottom of the body back onto two needles, (6 sts per needle) and graft them together using Kitchener stitch. Use the yarn ends to sew the gaps on the side of the feet close.

    Stuff the hands, and attach them to the sides of the body, thumbs facing upwards. Use a piece of yarn to embroider the fingers.

    Attach the ears to the top of the head with the sloped edge facing to the side of the head. Attach the tail.

    Using black yarn embroider the eyes.

    Weave in all remaining yarn ends.

    Abbreviations:

    BOR Beginning of the round

    CO Cast on

    dec’d Decreased

    inc’d Increased

    k Knit

    p Purl

    k2tog Knit 2 sts together

    ssk Slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together

    st(s) Stitch(es)

    m Marker

    m1L Make 1 st by lifting the yarn between the two sts from front to back and knitting it through the back loop (increases 1 st)

    m1R Make 1 st by lifting the yarn between the two sts from back to front and knitting it through the front loop (increases 1 st)

    p2tog Purl 2 sts together (decreases 1 st)

    pm Place a marker

    rm Remove marker

    RS Right side

    sl Slip

    sl1, k2tog, psso Slip 1, knit the next 2 sts together, pass the slipped st over the previous st

    sm Slip marker

    kfb Knit the stitch through the front loop, then though the back loop (increases 1 st)

    WS Wrong side

    wyib With yarn in back

    wyif With yarn in front

    w&t Wrap and turn. (Slip the next st on the right needle as if to purl, bring yarn to front, slip the st back to left needle and bring yarn to back. Turn the work.)

    * Repeat from here


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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