Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Muumitalo: Moominmamma socks
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The outline of the Moominmamma design is embroidered with black yarn and the details on the handbag with the Miffle yarn using duplicate stitches .
Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
39
Expert
Availability: In stock
N021939
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Size
34(38)42Yarn demand
Novita Muumitalo (007) Moomintroll <100(100)100 g, (583) Little My <100(100)100 g and some (099) Stinky and (229) Miffle for embroideringNeedles and other supplies
Needles Novita 3–3½ mm (UK 9½–11 / US 2½–4) or size needed to obtain gaugeDesigner
Minttu WikbergUsing Little My cast on 60(64)72 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 15(16)18 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.
Work 6(8)8 rounds of ribbing. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 4(4)2 sts = 64(68)74 sts.
Continue in stockinette st and begin striping following the chart. Work the 64(68)74 sts on row 1. Work rows 2–6 of the chart.
Continue striping. On row 7, begin the intarsia pattern: *turn work, yarn over, purl the sts on the WS and follow the chart when you reach the Moominmamma design. At the end of round purl together the last st and the yo. Turn work, yo, knit the sts (RS). Follow the chart when you reach the design. At the end of round, work the skp decrease (= slip the last st knitwise, knit the yo from the beginning of round, pass the slipped st over).* Repeat *–* and work rows 8–60 of the chart.
Work the Moominmamma design and her handbag in intarsia. The skirt can also be knitted in colourwork. The outline, details and eyes are embroidered on the finished piece.
Sizes 34 and 38: Decrease 1 st on rows 26, 36, 42, 46, 52 and 56: yo, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp. Last st + yo from the beginning remain. Skp.
Size 42: Decrease 1 st on rows 16, 26, 36, 42, 46, 52 and 56: yo, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp. Last st + yo from the beginning remain. Skp.
52(56)60 sts now on the needles. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 13(14)15 sts each.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 26(28)30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern using Little My:
Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1–2 13(14)15 times in total = 26(28)30 rows.
Work the WS row and begin turning the heel: continue working the reinforced st pattern as established. On the heel flap work the RS row until 10(10)11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(8)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 9(9)10 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 8(10)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(5)5 sts each.
Join the Moomintroll yarn and knit the leftmost 4(5)5 heel flap sts. Using a free needle, pick up 13(14)15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4(5)5 heel flap sts.
Continue striping with all 62(68)72 sts: alternate 5 rounds of Moomintroll and 5 rounds of Little My. At the same time begin the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 52(56)60 sts remain. Redistribute the sts, 13(14)15 sts per needle.
When the sole measures 17(20)22 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, in sizes 34 and 42 k2tog at the end of each needle. 12(14)14 sts now on each needle.
On the next round begin the toe decreases: k2tog at the midpoint and end of each needle = 40(48)48 sts. Work 4(5)5 rounds even, then repeat the decreases at the midpoint and end of each needle = 32(40)40 sts. Work 3(4)4 rounds even, then repeat the decreases = 24(32)32 sts. 1 less round between decrease rounds after each time. Continue in this manner until 8 sts remain.
Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Using duplicate stitches, embroider the outline with black yarn and the handbag details with Miffle. Use back stitches for the eyes.
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
Shoe size 34(38)42 (EUR)Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st in the round following the chart and instructions. Intarsia in the round: knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows following the instructions. All different-coloured fields are knitted with their own ball of yarn. Twist the different strands around each other on the WS to prevent holes at the colour changes.
Gauge 25 sts of stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in
Using Little My cast on 60(64)72 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 15(16)18 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.
Work 6(8)8 rounds of ribbing. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 4(4)2 sts = 64(68)74 sts.
Continue in stockinette st and begin striping following the chart. Work the 64(68)74 sts on row 1. Work rows 2–6 of the chart.
Continue striping. On row 7, begin the intarsia pattern: *turn work, yarn over, purl the sts on the WS and follow the chart when you reach the Moominmamma design. At the end of round purl together the last st and the yo. Turn work, yo, knit the sts (RS). Follow the chart when you reach the design. At the end of round, work the skp decrease (= slip the last st knitwise, knit the yo from the beginning of round, pass the slipped st over).* Repeat *–* and work rows 8–60 of the chart.
Work the Moominmamma design and her handbag in intarsia. The skirt can also be knitted in colourwork. The outline, details and eyes are embroidered on the finished piece.
Sizes 34 and 38: Decrease 1 st on rows 26, 36, 42, 46, 52 and 56: yo, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp. Last st + yo from the beginning remain. Skp.
Size 42: Decrease 1 st on rows 16, 26, 36, 42, 46, 52 and 56: yo, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp. Last st + yo from the beginning remain. Skp.
52(56)60 sts now on the needles. Divide the sts evenly onto four needles, 13(14)15 sts each.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 26(28)30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern using Little My:
Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1–2 13(14)15 times in total = 26(28)30 rows.
Work the WS row and begin turning the heel: continue working the reinforced st pattern as established. On the heel flap work the RS row until 10(10)11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(8)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 9(9)10 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 8(10)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(5)5 sts each.
Join the Moomintroll yarn and knit the leftmost 4(5)5 heel flap sts. Using a free needle, pick up 13(14)15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4(5)5 heel flap sts.
Continue striping with all 62(68)72 sts: alternate 5 rounds of Moomintroll and 5 rounds of Little My. At the same time begin the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 52(56)60 sts remain. Redistribute the sts, 13(14)15 sts per needle.
When the sole measures 17(20)22 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, in sizes 34 and 42 k2tog at the end of each needle. 12(14)14 sts now on each needle.
On the next round begin the toe decreases: k2tog at the midpoint and end of each needle = 40(48)48 sts. Work 4(5)5 rounds even, then repeat the decreases at the midpoint and end of each needle = 32(40)40 sts. Work 3(4)4 rounds even, then repeat the decreases = 24(32)32 sts. 1 less round between decrease rounds after each time. Continue in this manner until 8 sts remain.
Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Using duplicate stitches, embroider the outline with black yarn and the handbag details with Miffle. Use back stitches for the eyes.
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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