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"Midsummer" colourwork socks for women Novita Venla

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The colourwork pattern on these Midsummer socks is inspired by the folk belief which holds that you will dream of your future husband if you place seven different flowers under your pillow on midsummer night. Knitted from Novita Venla.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 37
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N021837
Pattern details
Size
approx. 38

Yarn demand
Novita Venla
(182) Petrol 100 g
(010) Off-white 50 g

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 2½ mm or size needed to obtain gauge.

Designer
Minttu Wikberg

Details

Using the off-white yarn, cast on 84 sts and distribute them onto four needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Then knit 1 round and at the same time evenly increase 2 sts = 86 sts.

Begin the colourwork in the round from row 1 of the chart and work the 86 st pattern. Work rows 2-74 of the chart. 1 st decreased at the beginning and end of round on rows 5, 12, 25, 32, 35, 39, 43, 47, 50, 54, 59, 64 and 69. 60 sts on the needles after the decreases and row 74. Distribute the sts onto four needles, 15 sts each.

With the petrol yarn, begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* 14 more times.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows).

Work the WS row once more. Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 11 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, work another RS row and distribute the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each.

Then, using a free needle, pick up 16 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 16 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles, and knit them through the back loop onto needle IV.

Work these 74 sts in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog, and at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Work 1 round without decreases, work the decrease round as before, 2 rounds, decrease round, 2 rounds, decrease round, 3 rounds, decrease round. Repeat the decreases as before on every 4th round until 15 sts remain on each needle.

Continue working stockinette st until the foot measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

Begin the toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases as before 2 times on every 4th round and then on every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in the ends.

Knit the other sock to match.

Finishing

Steam the socks lightly.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
size approx. 38

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k2, p2*

Using the off-white yarn, cast on 84 sts and distribute them onto four needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Then knit 1 round and at the same time evenly increase 2 sts = 86 sts.

Begin the colourwork in the round from row 1 of the chart and work the 86 st pattern. Work rows 2-74 of the chart. 1 st decreased at the beginning and end of round on rows 5, 12, 25, 32, 35, 39, 43, 47, 50, 54, 59, 64 and 69. 60 sts on the needles after the decreases and row 74. Distribute the sts onto four needles, 15 sts each.

With the petrol yarn, begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* 14 more times.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows).

Work the WS row once more. Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 11 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, work another RS row and distribute the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each.

Then, using a free needle, pick up 16 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 16 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles, and knit them through the back loop onto needle IV.

Work these 74 sts in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog, and at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Work 1 round without decreases, work the decrease round as before, 2 rounds, decrease round, 2 rounds, decrease round, 3 rounds, decrease round. Repeat the decreases as before on every 4th round until 15 sts remain on each needle.

Continue working stockinette st until the foot measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

Begin the toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases as before 2 times on every 4th round and then on every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in the ends.

Knit the other sock to match.

Finishing

Steam the socks lightly.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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