Men's knitted sweater Novita 7 Veljestä

As low as €6.96

This colourwork sweater from Novita 7 Veljestä is a classic from decades earlier.
Novita 7 Veljestä -lehti 2012 (in Finnish)
8
Intermediate
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    Availability: In stock

    7VELJ8
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (044) Graphite 600(650)650(700) g
    (010) Off White 100(100)100(100) g
    (047) Lichen 50(50)50(50) g
    (043) Stone 50(50)50(50) g and
    (099) Black 50(50)50(50) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) and
    double-pointed needles Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed.

    Designer
    Novita

    Body

    The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes.

    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle and the Graphite yarn, cast on 188(204)216(236) sts. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Switch to the larger needle. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 4(6)6(4) sts = 192(210)222(240) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 6 st pattern 32(35)37(40) times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart. Then work stockinette st using Graphite.

    When the piece measures 41(42)44(46) cm, work 90(98)103(112) sts in the back, bind off 12(14)16(16) sts for the armhole, work 84(91)95(104) sts in the front, bind off the last 6(7)8(8) sts and the first 6(7)8(8) sts on the next round for the other armhole. 84(91)95(104) sts on the back and front pieces. Leave the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Graphite, cast on 48(48)52(52) sts and divide them to four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 6(6)8(8) sts = 54(54)60(60) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 9(9)10(10) times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart. Then work stockinette st using Graphite.

    Note: When the piece measures 8(9)13(8) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3)3(3) cm 10(12)11(13) more times = 76(80)84(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50) cm, bind off 6(7)8(8) sts at both ends. Leave the remaining 64(66)68(72) sts on hold.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Yoke

    Place all the sts you left on hold on the larger circular needle (back, sleeve, front, sleeve). With all 296(314)326(352) sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2(3)3(4) cm. On the last round evenly decrease 6(4)6(2) sts = 290(310)320(350) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work the 10 st pattern repeat 29(31)32(35) times. Work rows 2-9 of the chart.

    Work row 10, evenly decreasing 2(2)0(2) sts = 288(308)320(348) sts. Work rows 11-18. 4 st pattern repeated 72(77)80(87) times.

    Work row 19, evenly decreasing 60(60)64(68) sts = 228(248)256(280) sts. Work row 20, evenly decreasing 0(2)4(4) sts = 228(246)252(276) sts.

    Work rows 21-29. 6 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 29, 190(205)210(230) sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 30-33. 5 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 33, 152(164)168(184) sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 34-42. 4 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 42, 114(123)126(138) sts now on the needles.

    Work row 43, evenly decreasing 2(3)2(2) sts = 112(120)124(136) sts. Work rows 44-48. 4 st pattern repeated 28(30)31(34) times.

    Using Graphite, work stockinette st for 1 cm. On the last round, evenly decrease 16(20)20(28) sts = 96(100)104(108) sts.

    Switch to the smaller circular needle and work ribbing for 3 cm. Then switch back to the larger circular needle and work ribbing for 16 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the sleeve seams and underarm seams.

    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 102(110)118(126) cm / 40¼(43¼)46½(49½) in
    length at front/back midpoint 64(66)68(71) cm / 25¼(26)26¾(28) in
    inner sleeve length 47(48)49(50) cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¾) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*

    Body

    The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes.

    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle and the Graphite yarn, cast on 188(204)216(236) sts. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Switch to the larger needle. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 4(6)6(4) sts = 192(210)222(240) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 6 st pattern 32(35)37(40) times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart. Then work stockinette st using Graphite.

    When the piece measures 41(42)44(46) cm, work 90(98)103(112) sts in the back, bind off 12(14)16(16) sts for the armhole, work 84(91)95(104) sts in the front, bind off the last 6(7)8(8) sts and the first 6(7)8(8) sts on the next round for the other armhole. 84(91)95(104) sts on the back and front pieces. Leave the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Graphite, cast on 48(48)52(52) sts and divide them to four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 6(6)8(8) sts = 54(54)60(60) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 9(9)10(10) times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart. Then work stockinette st using Graphite.

    Note: When the piece measures 8(9)13(8) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3)3(3) cm 10(12)11(13) more times = 76(80)84(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50) cm, bind off 6(7)8(8) sts at both ends. Leave the remaining 64(66)68(72) sts on hold.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Yoke

    Place all the sts you left on hold on the larger circular needle (back, sleeve, front, sleeve). With all 296(314)326(352) sts, work stockinette st in the round for 2(3)3(4) cm. On the last round evenly decrease 6(4)6(2) sts = 290(310)320(350) sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work the 10 st pattern repeat 29(31)32(35) times. Work rows 2-9 of the chart.

    Work row 10, evenly decreasing 2(2)0(2) sts = 288(308)320(348) sts. Work rows 11-18. 4 st pattern repeated 72(77)80(87) times.

    Work row 19, evenly decreasing 60(60)64(68) sts = 228(248)256(280) sts. Work row 20, evenly decreasing 0(2)4(4) sts = 228(246)252(276) sts.

    Work rows 21-29. 6 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 29, 190(205)210(230) sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 30-33. 5 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 33, 152(164)168(184) sts now on the needles.

    Work rows 34-42. 4 st pattern repeated 38(41)42(46) times. 38(41)42(46) sts decreased on row 42, 114(123)126(138) sts now on the needles.

    Work row 43, evenly decreasing 2(3)2(2) sts = 112(120)124(136) sts. Work rows 44-48. 4 st pattern repeated 28(30)31(34) times.

    Using Graphite, work stockinette st for 1 cm. On the last round, evenly decrease 16(20)20(28) sts = 96(100)104(108) sts.

    Switch to the smaller circular needle and work ribbing for 3 cm. Then switch back to the larger circular needle and work ribbing for 16 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the sleeve seams and underarm seams.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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