Men's cabled vest Novita 7 Veljestä

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A manly vest knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä, with alternating cables and texture sections.
Online pattern
Intermediate

Availability: Out of stock

NONL154
Size
S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä
(047) Lichen 500(550)600(600)650 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles
Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4-4½ mm (UK 7-8 / US 6-7) or sizes needed;
for the neckline edge a 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) circular needle (80 cm / 32 in)

Other supplies
7 buttons

Designer
Arja Viitala

Back

Using the smaller needles cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and work ribbing for 6 cm. On the last row evenly increase 18(20)20(22)24 sts = 117(125)131(139)149 sts.

Switch to the larger needles and begin the patterns on row 1 of the chart: repeat section A-B 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts], work section B-C (= 24 sts), keep repeating C-D with the middle 29(29)31(31)33 sts, work B-C (= 24 sts), repeat C-D 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts]. Work rows 2-14 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-14.

When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(5)5(5)6 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st for the armholes = 91(99)101(109)115 sts.

When the armhole measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, bind off the middle 19(19)21(21)23 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row decrease 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 26(27)28(29)30 cm, bind off the shoulder sts.

Knit the other side in the same manner.

Left front

Using the smaller needles cast on 49(51)55(57)61 sts and work ribbing for 6 cm. On the last row evenly increase 7(9)9(11)11 sts = 56(60)64(68)72 sts.

Switch to the larger needles and begin the patterns on row 1 of the chart: repeat section A-B 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts], work section B-C (= 24 sts), repeat C-D 6(6)7(7)7 times [= 12(12)14(14)14 sts]. Work rows 2-14 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-14.

When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off at the right end 1x5(5)5(5)6 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st for the armhole.

Note: When the armhole measures 2 cm, at the front edge (= left end) bind off on every 4th row 12(12)14(14)14x1 st for the neckline.

When the armhole measures 26(27)28(29)30 cm, bind off the shoulder sts.

Right front

Mirror left front.

Finishing

Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Border: Using the circular needle pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows at the front edges and 3 sts per 4 sts at the back neckline. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Work in ribbing for 1,5 cm. Make buttonholes at the left front edge (= bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 sts at the same spot on the next row). The lowest buttonhole should be 3 cm from the bottom edge, the topmost one at the start of the slanted neckline, and the other 5 evenly in between. Keep working in ribbing until the border measures 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

Armhole border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows. Work in ribbing for 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.

Work the other armhole border in the same manner.

Sew the side seams and the armhole seams.

Attach the buttons.

Finished dimensions
body circumference 112(120)128(136)144 cm / 44(47¼)50½(53½)56¾ in length 70(72)74(76)78 cm / 27½(28¼)29¼(30)30¾ in inner sleeve length 50(51)52(53)54 cm / 19¾(20)20½(20¾)21¼ in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
- Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows

Back

Using the smaller needles cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and work ribbing for 6 cm. On the last row evenly increase 18(20)20(22)24 sts = 117(125)131(139)149 sts.

Switch to the larger needles and begin the patterns on row 1 of the chart: repeat section A-B 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts], work section B-C (= 24 sts), keep repeating C-D with the middle 29(29)31(31)33 sts, work B-C (= 24 sts), repeat C-D 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts]. Work rows 2-14 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-14.

When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(5)5(5)6 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st for the armholes = 91(99)101(109)115 sts.

When the armhole measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, bind off the middle 19(19)21(21)23 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row decrease 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 26(27)28(29)30 cm, bind off the shoulder sts.

Knit the other side in the same manner.

Left front

Using the smaller needles cast on 49(51)55(57)61 sts and work ribbing for 6 cm. On the last row evenly increase 7(9)9(11)11 sts = 56(60)64(68)72 sts.

Switch to the larger needles and begin the patterns on row 1 of the chart: repeat section A-B 10(12)13(15)17 times [= 20(24)26(30)34 sts], work section B-C (= 24 sts), repeat C-D 6(6)7(7)7 times [= 12(12)14(14)14 sts]. Work rows 2-14 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-14.

When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off at the right end 1x5(5)5(5)6 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st for the armhole.

Note: When the armhole measures 2 cm, at the front edge (= left end) bind off on every 4th row 12(12)14(14)14x1 st for the neckline.

When the armhole measures 26(27)28(29)30 cm, bind off the shoulder sts.

Right front

Mirror left front.

Finishing

Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Border: Using the circular needle pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows at the front edges and 3 sts per 4 sts at the back neckline. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Work in ribbing for 1,5 cm. Make buttonholes at the left front edge (= bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 sts at the same spot on the next row). The lowest buttonhole should be 3 cm from the bottom edge, the topmost one at the start of the slanted neckline, and the other 5 evenly in between. Keep working in ribbing until the border measures 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

Armhole border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows. Work in ribbing for 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.

Work the other armhole border in the same manner.

Sew the side seams and the armhole seams.

Attach the buttons.


Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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