My Cart

Mini Cart

Marja socks Novita Nalle and Nordic Wool

As low as €0.00

Wild berries are a Finnish thing, and in the late summer and autumn weekends, people pack their backpacks and go picking berries in the nearest forest. Marja means berry in Finnish, and as it happens, it's also a common girls' name in Finland.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 34
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031934
Pattern details
Size
38(42) (EUR)

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) Linen 100(100) g,
(160) Jeans <50(50) g,
(533) Pomegranate <50(50) g and

Novita Nordic
Wool (397) Spruce <50(50) g

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed to obtain gauge

Designer
Essi Isokoski

Details

Using Linen cast on 60(70) sts and divide them to four needles: 15+15+15+15 sts (17+18+18+17 sts). The beginning of round is between needles IV and I.

Work twisted ribbing in the round for 6 cm, then knit 1 round.

Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Repeat the 15(14) st pattern 4(5) times. Work rows 2-38 of the chart, then repeat rows 35-38. Make sure to loosen the floats as you work to avoid a too tight fabric.

Begin the heel flap: using Linen knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV and decrease 2 sts = 28(32) sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern using Linen:

Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

Work these two rows 14(15) times in total = 28(30) rows.

Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 10(11) sts remain at the left end. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8(10), p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 9(10) sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10(12) sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts to two needles, 5(6) sts each. Knit the 5(6) sts at right. You are now at the midpoint of the heel flap (= beginning of round).

K5(6) on needle I. Pick up and knit 14(15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up and knit 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap + 14(15) sts from the right end of the flap. K5(6). 70(80) sts now on the needles.

Work stockinette st in the round and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every 2nd round until 15(17) sts remain on each needle.

When the sole measures 19(21) cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, begin toe decreases. At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 5(6) sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

Knit the other sock in the same manner.

Finishing

Lightly steam the socks.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
vartalon ympärys 108(116)124(132)140(148) cm
neuleen pituus 55(57)59(61)64(66) cm
hihan sisäpituus 39(40)41(42)42(43) cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
- Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*

Using Linen cast on 60(70) sts and divide them to four needles: 15+15+15+15 sts (17+18+18+17 sts). The beginning of round is between needles IV and I.

Work twisted ribbing in the round for 6 cm, then knit 1 round.

Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Repeat the 15(14) st pattern 4(5) times. Work rows 2-38 of the chart, then repeat rows 35-38. Make sure to loosen the floats as you work to avoid a too tight fabric.

Begin the heel flap: using Linen knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV and decrease 2 sts = 28(32) sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern using Linen:

Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

Work these two rows 14(15) times in total = 28(30) rows.

Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 10(11) sts remain at the left end. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8(10), p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 9(10) sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10(12) sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts to two needles, 5(6) sts each. Knit the 5(6) sts at right. You are now at the midpoint of the heel flap (= beginning of round).

K5(6) on needle I. Pick up and knit 14(15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up and knit 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap + 14(15) sts from the right end of the flap. K5(6). 70(80) sts now on the needles.

Work stockinette st in the round and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every 2nd round until 15(17) sts remain on each needle.

When the sole measures 19(21) cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, begin toe decreases. At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 5(6) sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

Knit the other sock in the same manner.

Finishing

Lightly steam the socks.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

Reviews

Write Your Own Review

Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account