Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes, with an open front. Using Dark Ruby and the circular needle cast on 201(219)237(255)273 sts. Begin twisted ribbing on the WS following the instructions.
When the ribbing measures approx. 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, purl the WS row. Then work stockinette st for 6 rows.
Begin the colourwork stripe on row 8 of the chart (embroider the leave stems on rows 1-7 on the finished work using duplicate sts): work 1 edge st, 1 st at right end of chart, repeat 18 st pattern 11(12)13(14)15 times, work 1 edge st. Work rows 9-33 of the chart.
After the colourwork section work stockinette st using Dark Ruby.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, begin neckline decreases at both ends: on a RS row, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 2 sts, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm 13(14)13(15)13 more times.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 35(36)37(38)39 cm and you have last worked a WS row, divide the sts into three groups for the armholes. The middle 105(113)123(131)143 sts are the back piece. Leave the back sts and left front sts on hold.
Continue in stockinette st. Keep working decreases at the front edge.
When the armhole measures 18(18)19(20)21 cm, on every other row bind off 4x7(8)9(9)10 sts and 1x6(6)7(10)11 sts at the shoulder.
Mirror right front.
Work stockinette st with the 105(113)123(131)143 back sts.
When the armhole measures 18(18)19(20)21 cm, on every other row bind off 4x7(8)9(9)10 sts and 1x6(6)7(10)11 sts at the shoulder.
When the armhole measures 20(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)37 sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing at the shoulder and bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Dark Ruby cast on 41(41)43(45)45 sts and work twisted ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases:
Increase round 1: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(3)3 on each needle (= yarn over, knit it on the next round) = 49(49)51(57)57 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 2: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)3 sts on each needle = 57(57)59(65)69 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 3: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)2 sts on each needle = 65(65)67(73)77 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 4: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)2 sts on each needle = 73(73)75(81)85 sts.
Begin the colourwork stripe on row 8 of the chart (embroider the leave stems on rows 1-7 on the finished work using duplicate sts): k0(0)1(4)6, work 1 st at right end of chart, repeat 18 st pattern 4 times, k0(0)1(4)6. Keep working 0(0)1(4)6 sts at both ends in stockinette st using Dark Ruby. Work rows 9-33 of the chart.
After the colourwork section work stockinette st using Dark Ruby.
When the piece measures 36(37)38(38)39 cm, on sizes XS and S increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round and on sizes M, L and XL increase 1 st on each needle (= yarn over, knit on the next round). 75(75)79(85)89 sts now on the needles.
After 3 cm increase 1 st on each needle (all sizes). 79(79)83(89)93 sts now on the needles.
When the piece measures 42(43)44(44)45 cm, bind off.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Border: Using the circular needle pick up and knit sts from the RS. Start at the ribbing on the right front edge and pick up 1 st per row. On the front edge pick up 3 sts per 4 rows. Pick up 34(34)34(36)36 sts from the back neckline. Pick up 3 sts per 4 rows at the front and 1 st per row at the ribbing. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin twisted ribbing on the WS.
When the border measures 1,5 cm, work buttonholes to the right border. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline slanting, the lowest one 3 cm from the hem and the other two evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
When the border measures 4 cm, bind off in pattern.
Attach the sleeves following the red markings on the pattern.
The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes, with an open front. Using Dark Ruby and the circular needle cast on 201(219)237(255)273 sts. Begin twisted ribbing on the WS following the instructions.
When the ribbing measures approx. 5 cm and you have last worked a RS row, purl the WS row. Then work stockinette st for 6 rows.
Begin the colourwork stripe on row 8 of the chart (embroider the leave stems on rows 1-7 on the finished work using duplicate sts): work 1 edge st, 1 st at right end of chart, repeat 18 st pattern 11(12)13(14)15 times, work 1 edge st. Work rows 9-33 of the chart.
After the colourwork section work stockinette st using Dark Ruby.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, begin neckline decreases at both ends: on a RS row, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 2 sts, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm 13(14)13(15)13 more times.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 35(36)37(38)39 cm and you have last worked a WS row, divide the sts into three groups for the armholes. The middle 105(113)123(131)143 sts are the back piece. Leave the back sts and left front sts on hold.
Continue in stockinette st. Keep working decreases at the front edge.
When the armhole measures 18(18)19(20)21 cm, on every other row bind off 4x7(8)9(9)10 sts and 1x6(6)7(10)11 sts at the shoulder.
Mirror right front.
Work stockinette st with the 105(113)123(131)143 back sts.
When the armhole measures 18(18)19(20)21 cm, on every other row bind off 4x7(8)9(9)10 sts and 1x6(6)7(10)11 sts at the shoulder.
When the armhole measures 20(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)37 sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing at the shoulder and bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Dark Ruby cast on 41(41)43(45)45 sts and work twisted ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases:
Increase round 1: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(3)3 on each needle (= yarn over, knit it on the next round) = 49(49)51(57)57 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 2: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)3 sts on each needle = 57(57)59(65)69 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 3: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)2 sts on each needle = 65(65)67(73)77 sts.
Knit 1 round.
Increase round 4: knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2(2)2(2)2 sts on each needle = 73(73)75(81)85 sts.
Begin the colourwork stripe on row 8 of the chart (embroider the leave stems on rows 1-7 on the finished work using duplicate sts): k0(0)1(4)6, work 1 st at right end of chart, repeat 18 st pattern 4 times, k0(0)1(4)6. Keep working 0(0)1(4)6 sts at both ends in stockinette st using Dark Ruby. Work rows 9-33 of the chart.
After the colourwork section work stockinette st using Dark Ruby.
When the piece measures 36(37)38(38)39 cm, on sizes XS and S increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round and on sizes M, L and XL increase 1 st on each needle (= yarn over, knit on the next round). 75(75)79(85)89 sts now on the needles.
After 3 cm increase 1 st on each needle (all sizes). 79(79)83(89)93 sts now on the needles.
When the piece measures 42(43)44(44)45 cm, bind off.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Border: Using the circular needle pick up and knit sts from the RS. Start at the ribbing on the right front edge and pick up 1 st per row. On the front edge pick up 3 sts per 4 rows. Pick up 34(34)34(36)36 sts from the back neckline. Pick up 3 sts per 4 rows at the front and 1 st per row at the ribbing. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin twisted ribbing on the WS.
When the border measures 1,5 cm, work buttonholes to the right border. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline slanting, the lowest one 3 cm from the hem and the other two evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
When the border measures 4 cm, bind off in pattern.
Attach the sleeves following the red markings on the pattern.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.