Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Marea shawl Novita Baby Merino
As low as €6.96
Marea is a beautiful triangular scarf worked in soft Novita Baby Merino. Choose from six different colors.
Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
5
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N02205
Size
Yksi kokoYarn demand
Novita Baby Merino
(588) Cherry or (535) Apple Blossom 150 g
Needles and other supplies
Crochet hook
Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US G-6) or size needed
Designer
Ana DiakovaRow 1: Chain 4 (ch), 2 trebles (tr) into 4th ch from hook = 3 tr. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch3 (= 1st tr, also later), 1 tr into base of chain, 2 tr = 4 tr. Turn work.
Row 3: Ch3, 2 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 6 tr. Turn work.
Row 4: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 7 tr. Turn work.
Row 5: Ch3, 5 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 9 tr. Turn work.
Row 6: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 10 tr. Turn work.
Row 7: Ch3, 8 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 12 tr. Turn work.
Row 8: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 13 tr. Turn work.
Row 9: Ch3, 11 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 15 tr. Turn work.
Row 10: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 16 tr. Turn work.
Row 11: Ch3, 14 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 18 tr. Turn work.
Row 12: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 19 tr. Turn work.
Row 13: Ch3, 17 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 21 tr. Turn work.
Now continue following the chart:
Row 14: Ch3, 4 tr into base of chain, skip 4 tr, 16 tr.
Row 15: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, picot (ch4, 1 dc into 3rd ch from hook), ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 16: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 17: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 18: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, 5 tr into next chain between tr groups, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr at the right end, 2 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
Row 19: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 20: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, 5 tr into next chain between tr groups, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 21: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 22: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* once, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr at the right end, 3 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
Row 23: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, *picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs*, repeat *-* once, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 24: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* once, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 25: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, *picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs*, repeat *-* once, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 26: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* 2 more times, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr still at the right end, 4 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
1 group of 5 tr increased at the left end every four rows. Work like on rows 23-26.
When there are 22 groups of 5 tr at the left end and you have worked 98 rows in total, work as follows:
Row 99: Ch3, 1 tr into each tr on previous row, 3 tr into last tr = 129 tr.
Row 100: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row. 1 tr increased.
Row 101: Ch3, 1 tr into each tr on previous row, 3 tr into last tr. 2 tr increased.
Repeat rows 100-101 three more times, then repeat row 100 once more. Break yarn.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.
Finished dimensions
Height approx. 112 cm / 44 in; width at top edge approx. 75 cm / 30 in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Crochet pattern
- Work following the chart and instructions.
Gauge
4 pattern repeats = 11 cm / 4¼ in; 9 rows = 10 cm / 4 in
Row 1: Chain 4 (ch), 2 trebles (tr) into 4th ch from hook = 3 tr. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch3 (= 1st tr, also later), 1 tr into base of chain, 2 tr = 4 tr. Turn work.
Row 3: Ch3, 2 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 6 tr. Turn work.
Row 4: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 7 tr. Turn work.
Row 5: Ch3, 5 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 9 tr. Turn work.
Row 6: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 10 tr. Turn work.
Row 7: Ch3, 8 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 12 tr. Turn work.
Row 8: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 13 tr. Turn work.
Row 9: Ch3, 11 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 15 tr. Turn work.
Row 10: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 16 tr. Turn work.
Row 11: Ch3, 14 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 18 tr. Turn work.
Row 12: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row = 19 tr. Turn work.
Row 13: Ch3, 17 tr, 3 tr into last tr = 21 tr. Turn work.
Now continue following the chart:
Row 14: Ch3, 4 tr into base of chain, skip 4 tr, 16 tr.
Row 15: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, picot (ch4, 1 dc into 3rd ch from hook), ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 16: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 17: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 18: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, 5 tr into next chain between tr groups, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr at the right end, 2 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
Row 19: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 20: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, 5 tr into next chain between tr groups, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 21: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 22: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* once, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr at the right end, 3 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
Row 23: Ch3, 15 tr, tr3tog between trs on previous row, *picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs*, repeat *-* once, picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 24: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* once, skip 2 tr groups, 3 tr into next tr, 15 tr.
Row 25: Ch3, 15 tr, skip 2 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs, *picot, ch1, skip 5 tr, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog between trs*, repeat *-* once, picot, ch1, tr3tog + ch2 + tr3tog into end of row.
Row 26: Ch3, 5 tr into chain between tr groups, *5 tr into next chain between tr groups*, repeat *-* 2 more times, skip 1 tr group, 16 tr. 16 tr still at the right end, 4 groups of 5 tr at the left end.
1 group of 5 tr increased at the left end every four rows. Work like on rows 23-26.
When there are 22 groups of 5 tr at the left end and you have worked 98 rows in total, work as follows:
Row 99: Ch3, 1 tr into each tr on previous row, 3 tr into last tr = 129 tr.
Row 100: Ch3, 1 tr into base of chain, 1 tr into each tr on previous row. 1 tr increased.
Row 101: Ch3, 1 tr into each tr on previous row, 3 tr into last tr. 2 tr increased.
Repeat rows 100-101 three more times, then repeat row 100 once more. Break yarn.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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