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Lumi cabled sweater Novita Nordic Wool

Lumi cabled sweater Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €3.00

White and pure as snow, this beautiful sweater features a cable pattern that follows the raglan seam. Worked in Novita Nordic Wool, a pure Nordic wool yarn.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 24
Skill level Expert
Lumi cabled sweater Novita Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
Novita knitting needles 35 cm-3.5 mm
€3.00

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Lumi cabled sweater Novita Nordic Wool
Lumi cabled sweater Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€3.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012024
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (010) Off White 550(600)650(700)750 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7) or sizes needed;
    4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and
    5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) for the collar

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Back

    Using the smaller needles cast on 112(120)128(136)140 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p3. Work ribbing for 9 cm, then purl WS row, evenly decreasing 2(0)0(2)0 sts = 110(120)128(134)140 sts.

    Switch to the larger needles. Following row 1 of the chart work double seed st at both ends and begin the cable pattern in the middle: work 1(0)0(1)0 st at the right end, repeat section A 12(14)15(16)17 times [= 24(28)30(32)34 sts], work section B (= 8 sts), repeat section C 11(12)13(13)14 times [= 44(48)52(52)56 sts], work section D (= 8 sts), repeat section E 12(14)15(16)17 times [= 24(28)30(32)34 sts], work 1(0)0(1)0 st at the left end.

    Work row 2 of the chart. On row 3 begin widening the cable section as follows: (RS) work to last 2 sts before section B, skp or ssp as needed to maintain double seed st pattern (skp = slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over; ssp = slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop), work section B (= 8 sts), increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), repeat section C 11(12)13(13)14 times [= 44(48)52(52)56 sts], increase 1 st, word section D (= 8 sts), k2tog or p2tog as needed, work double seed st to end of row.

    Work rows 4–8 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–8. At the same time repeat the double seed st decreases and the increases at section C on every 4th row 17 more times. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    After you have completed the decreases and increases there are still 110(120)128(134)140 sts on the needles: 7(10)12(15)16 sts in the double seed st sections, 8 sts in sections B and D, and 80(84)88(88)92 sts in section C.

    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(8)8(10)11 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts at both ends for the armholes = 96(100)104(104)108 sts. Both double seed st sections have now been bound off.

    Keep working the cable pattern and begin raglan decreases: (RS) work 8 sts, k2tog, work to last 10 sts, skp, work 8 sts. Repeat the decreases on every other row 24(26)24(27)29 more times.

    Keep decreasing as follows: (RS) work 8 sts, k3tog, work to last 11 sts, k3tog through back loop, work 8 sts. Repeat the decreases on every other row 1(1)3(1)1 more time(s). Bind off the remaining 38(38)38(40)40 sts.

    Front

    Work like back but work ribbing at the hem for 4,5 cm only. Work the cable pattern as established until you have completed the raglan decreases at both ends 21(23)25(24)26 times and there are 54(54)54(56)56 sts on the needles.

    Keep working the raglan decreases as established. On the next RS row leave the middle 30(30)30(32)32 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing as established, and at the same time on every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Left sleeve

    Using the smaller needles cast on 48(50)50(52)52 sts. Work ribbing for 6 cm, then purl WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin working double seed st following row 1 of the chart. Keep repeating section A (= 2 sts). Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–4.

    When the piece measures 11(7)9(7)12 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2,5(2,5)2,5 cm 11(13)15(16)18 more times = 72(78)82(86)90 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(49)50 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(8)8(9)10 sts and 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts at both ends.

    Begin raglan decreases: (RS) p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1. Repeat the decreases at the right end 14(12)12(13)13 times on every other row and 6(8)8(8)9 times on every 4th row and at the same time at the left end 17(15)15(16)16 times on every other row and 3(5)5(5)6 times on every 4th row.

    Note: After completing the decreases at the left end, on every other row bind off 1x6 sts and 2x5 sts at the left end.

    Right sleeve

    Mirror left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the raglan seams. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

    Collar: move the held sts onto the 4 mm circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 120(120)124(124)124 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round. When the collar measures 10 cm, switch to the 5 mm circular needle and work ribbing for another 10 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 92(100)108(116)124 cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(45¾)48¾ in middle back length 64(66)68(70)72 cm / 25¼(26)26¾(27½)28¼ in; front shorter by 4,5 cm / 1¾ in inner sleeve length 47(48)49(49)50 cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¼)19¾ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–* to end. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Double seed stitch and cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge
    21 sts and 28 rows in double seed st with larger needles or 24 sts and 28 rows in cable pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in


    Back

    Using the smaller needles cast on 112(120)128(136)140 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p3. Work ribbing for 9 cm, then purl WS row, evenly decreasing 2(0)0(2)0 sts = 110(120)128(134)140 sts.

    Switch to the larger needles. Following row 1 of the chart work double seed st at both ends and begin the cable pattern in the middle: work 1(0)0(1)0 st at the right end, repeat section A 12(14)15(16)17 times [= 24(28)30(32)34 sts], work section B (= 8 sts), repeat section C 11(12)13(13)14 times [= 44(48)52(52)56 sts], work section D (= 8 sts), repeat section E 12(14)15(16)17 times [= 24(28)30(32)34 sts], work 1(0)0(1)0 st at the left end.

    Work row 2 of the chart. On row 3 begin widening the cable section as follows: (RS) work to last 2 sts before section B, skp or ssp as needed to maintain double seed st pattern (skp = slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over; ssp = slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop), work section B (= 8 sts), increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), repeat section C 11(12)13(13)14 times [= 44(48)52(52)56 sts], increase 1 st, word section D (= 8 sts), k2tog or p2tog as needed, work double seed st to end of row.

    Work rows 4–8 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–8. At the same time repeat the double seed st decreases and the increases at section C on every 4th row 17 more times. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    After you have completed the decreases and increases there are still 110(120)128(134)140 sts on the needles: 7(10)12(15)16 sts in the double seed st sections, 8 sts in sections B and D, and 80(84)88(88)92 sts in section C.

    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(8)8(10)11 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts at both ends for the armholes = 96(100)104(104)108 sts. Both double seed st sections have now been bound off.

    Keep working the cable pattern and begin raglan decreases: (RS) work 8 sts, k2tog, work to last 10 sts, skp, work 8 sts. Repeat the decreases on every other row 24(26)24(27)29 more times.

    Keep decreasing as follows: (RS) work 8 sts, k3tog, work to last 11 sts, k3tog through back loop, work 8 sts. Repeat the decreases on every other row 1(1)3(1)1 more time(s). Bind off the remaining 38(38)38(40)40 sts.

    Front

    Work like back but work ribbing at the hem for 4,5 cm only. Work the cable pattern as established until you have completed the raglan decreases at both ends 21(23)25(24)26 times and there are 54(54)54(56)56 sts on the needles.

    Keep working the raglan decreases as established. On the next RS row leave the middle 30(30)30(32)32 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing as established, and at the same time on every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Left sleeve

    Using the smaller needles cast on 48(50)50(52)52 sts. Work ribbing for 6 cm, then purl WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin working double seed st following row 1 of the chart. Keep repeating section A (= 2 sts). Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–4.

    When the piece measures 11(7)9(7)12 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2,5(2,5)2,5 cm 11(13)15(16)18 more times = 72(78)82(86)90 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(49)50 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(8)8(9)10 sts and 1(1)2(2)2x2 sts at both ends.

    Begin raglan decreases: (RS) p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1. Repeat the decreases at the right end 14(12)12(13)13 times on every other row and 6(8)8(8)9 times on every 4th row and at the same time at the left end 17(15)15(16)16 times on every other row and 3(5)5(5)6 times on every 4th row.

    Note: After completing the decreases at the left end, on every other row bind off 1x6 sts and 2x5 sts at the left end.

    Right sleeve

    Mirror left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the raglan seams. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

    Collar: move the held sts onto the 4 mm circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 120(120)124(124)124 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round. When the collar measures 10 cm, switch to the 5 mm circular needle and work ribbing for another 10 cm. Bind off in pattern.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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