Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Long socks with cables Novita 7 Veljestä
As low as €6.96
The long woollen socks featuring strong heel, knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä.
Novita Syksy 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
11
Expert
Availability: In stock
N031711
Size
38/39Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä(021) Petrol 250 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:Novita 3½ mm or the size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Designer
Minna MetsänenCast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles: 26, 14, 14, and 26 sts. If you need your socks to fit wider calves, cast on 88 sts, with 4 sts more on the ribbing on both sides of the cable. The beginning of the round is placed between needles I and IV, in the middle of the back of the sock. Begin the ribbing and the cables from row 1 of both charts I and II. On chart I, begin from the point marked with an arrow and first knit 8 sts from the left side of the cable: *k2, p2* repeat from * to * 3 more times and k2. Work needles II and III in the cable pattern following chart II. On needle IV *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k2 and then work the 8 sts on the right end of chart I.
Continue working the sts in this order and work rows 2-12 of charts I and II.
On needles II and III continue following the cable pattern from row 13 of chart II. Work rows 14-20 and then repeat rows 1-20 for the rest of the sock.
On needles I and IV continue the 16 st cable pattern and work the rest of the sts in stockinette st. Work rows 13-19 of chart I, then repeat rows 8-19 for 7 times. Then work rows 8-11.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 15 cm, begin the decreases for the calf: work the 8 st cable pattern, k2tog and when 10 sts remain, work the skp decrease (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and then work the 8 st cable pattern. Work 7 rows without decreases, then repeat the decrease as before. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 4th round 10 more times. 56 sts on the needles, 14 on each needle. If you started with 88 sts, work the decreases every 4th row 16 times.
Continue working as established until the leg measures approx. 38 cm and you've just completed row 11 of chart I. Continue working needles II and III in the cable pattern and begin the increases for the heel between needles IV and I (see chart III). Continue working in the round.
1st increase round: You have worked through the end of needle IV. Using your left-hand needle, pick up the left leg of the stitch that is below the stitch you've just worked and knit it through the back loop. Next, pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on needle I onto your left-hand needle and knit it through the back loop. The increased sts will form the gusset between needles I and IV. The gusset has 2 sts. Work 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. The beginning of the round is now on the right end of the gusset, so you will end the round on needle IV before the 1 knit st on the gusset.
2nd increase round: There is 1 knit stitch unworked on needle IV. Increase 1 st as before (below the purl st), knit the 2 gusset sts, increase 1 st as before (below the purl st). 4 gusset sts. Knit 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. End this round before the gusset.
Repeat the increases every 2nd round for 6 more times. As established, always work the increases on both sides of the middle gusset sts. On every other round knit the gusset sts. Completed, the gusset has 16 sts.
After the last increase round, work 1 complete round and then work through the next round until the end of needle III. Make a note on which round the cable pattern on the top of the sock will continue after the heel.
Begin the heel decreases. The decreases are worked flat and only on needles IV and I.
1st row: work through needle IV, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. On the beginning of needle I, k2, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
2nd row: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
3rd row: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
4th row: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue working in the same way, knitting or purling the sts on either side of the "opening" together and then working 1 more st before turning the work. Work the decreases on both ends until 1 unworked st remains. The last decrease was made on the wrong side of the work. Turn work and resume knitting in the round with all the sts.
Work the first round as follows: slip 1, knit the sts on needle IV. On needle I, k11, k2tog through the back loop. Continue working the cable pattern on needles II and III. On needle IV, k2tog, k11. The beginning of the round is again between needles IV and I. Needles I and IV now have 12 sts each and needles II and III 14 sts each = 52 sts.
Continue working the cable pattern on the top of the sock and work needles I and IV in stockinette stitch until the foot measures approx. 19 cm and you've just completed row 15 of chart II. Work the following two cable turns following rows 1-3 of chart IV. The cable on the middle is now completed, while the smaller cables on the sides will still continue. If you need the foot to be longer, you can continue knitting and begin the toe decreases later on. Make sure that the turns on the smaller cables on the sides will continue to follow the proper pattern.
Distribute the sts evenly, so that each needle has 13 sts. On needles II and III work the toe decreases according to chart IV, i.e. work rows 4-20.
Work the toe decreases on needles I and IV: Work through needle I until 3 sts remain: k2tog, p1. On needle IV, p1, skp, work to the end of the needle. On the next round purl the purl sts. Continue working the decreases every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Switch to working the decreases on each round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pass it through the sts, pull tightly and weave the end securely.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
""Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Ribbing:
*k2, p2*
Cast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles: 26, 14, 14, and 26 sts. If you need your socks to fit wider calves, cast on 88 sts, with 4 sts more on the ribbing on both sides of the cable. The beginning of the round is placed between needles I and IV, in the middle of the back of the sock. Begin the ribbing and the cables from row 1 of both charts I and II. On chart I, begin from the point marked with an arrow and first knit 8 sts from the left side of the cable: *k2, p2* repeat from * to * 3 more times and k2. Work needles II and III in the cable pattern following chart II. On needle IV *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k2 and then work the 8 sts on the right end of chart I.
Continue working the sts in this order and work rows 2-12 of charts I and II.
On needles II and III continue following the cable pattern from row 13 of chart II. Work rows 14-20 and then repeat rows 1-20 for the rest of the sock.
On needles I and IV continue the 16 st cable pattern and work the rest of the sts in stockinette st. Work rows 13-19 of chart I, then repeat rows 8-19 for 7 times. Then work rows 8-11.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 15 cm, begin the decreases for the calf: work the 8 st cable pattern, k2tog and when 10 sts remain, work the skp decrease (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and then work the 8 st cable pattern. Work 7 rows without decreases, then repeat the decrease as before. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 4th round 10 more times. 56 sts on the needles, 14 on each needle. If you started with 88 sts, work the decreases every 4th row 16 times.
Continue working as established until the leg measures approx. 38 cm and you've just completed row 11 of chart I. Continue working needles II and III in the cable pattern and begin the increases for the heel between needles IV and I (see chart III). Continue working in the round.
1st increase round: You have worked through the end of needle IV. Using your left-hand needle, pick up the left leg of the stitch that is below the stitch you've just worked and knit it through the back loop. Next, pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on needle I onto your left-hand needle and knit it through the back loop. The increased sts will form the gusset between needles I and IV. The gusset has 2 sts. Work 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. The beginning of the round is now on the right end of the gusset, so you will end the round on needle IV before the 1 knit st on the gusset.
2nd increase round: There is 1 knit stitch unworked on needle IV. Increase 1 st as before (below the purl st), knit the 2 gusset sts, increase 1 st as before (below the purl st). 4 gusset sts. Knit 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. End this round before the gusset.
Repeat the increases every 2nd round for 6 more times. As established, always work the increases on both sides of the middle gusset sts. On every other round knit the gusset sts. Completed, the gusset has 16 sts.
After the last increase round, work 1 complete round and then work through the next round until the end of needle III. Make a note on which round the cable pattern on the top of the sock will continue after the heel.
Begin the heel decreases. The decreases are worked flat and only on needles IV and I.
1st row: work through needle IV, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. On the beginning of needle I, k2, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
2nd row: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
3rd row: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
4th row: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue working in the same way, knitting or purling the sts on either side of the "opening" together and then working 1 more st before turning the work. Work the decreases on both ends until 1 unworked st remains. The last decrease was made on the wrong side of the work. Turn work and resume knitting in the round with all the sts.
Work the first round as follows: slip 1, knit the sts on needle IV. On needle I, k11, k2tog through the back loop. Continue working the cable pattern on needles II and III. On needle IV, k2tog, k11. The beginning of the round is again between needles IV and I. Needles I and IV now have 12 sts each and needles II and III 14 sts each = 52 sts.
Continue working the cable pattern on the top of the sock and work needles I and IV in stockinette stitch until the foot measures approx. 19 cm and you've just completed row 15 of chart II. Work the following two cable turns following rows 1-3 of chart IV. The cable on the middle is now completed, while the smaller cables on the sides will still continue. If you need the foot to be longer, you can continue knitting and begin the toe decreases later on. Make sure that the turns on the smaller cables on the sides will continue to follow the proper pattern.
Distribute the sts evenly, so that each needle has 13 sts. On needles II and III work the toe decreases according to chart IV, i.e. work rows 4-20.
Work the toe decreases on needles I and IV: Work through needle I until 3 sts remain: k2tog, p1. On needle IV, p1, skp, work to the end of the needle. On the next round purl the purl sts. Continue working the decreases every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Switch to working the decreases on each round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pass it through the sts, pull tightly and weave the end securely.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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