My Cart

Mini Cart

Long Sideways Cardigan Novita Nalle

As low as €0.00

This long garment is worked sideways with the sleeves continuing seamlessly from the yoke. The fringe makes a finishing touch on this stunning piece.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 12
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031612
Pattern details
Size
S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
flax 800(850)900(950)1000g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
1 x 3.5 - 4.0 mm (80 cm) Novita circular needle
Or the size required to give the correct tension.

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Left front

The piece is worked sideways from centre front to cuff.

Cast on 286 (299) 299 (312) 312 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts, repeat the 13 st repeat for 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 times and finish the row by working the last 7 sts of the chart. Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the piece measures 16 (16) 16.5 (16.5) 17 cm, remove 26 sts from the left (= front) edge of the work on a stitch holder or waste yarn for collar. Continue following the lace chart with 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts left on the needle.

When the work measures 32 (34) 36 (38.5) 41 cm, starting from the right end of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the left side of the garment. You have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts for the sleeve on the needle.

Continue following the lace chart and when the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the right edge (underarm) of the work. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Pick up the 26 sts on hold and follow the lace chart for 8 (8) 8.5 (8.5) 9 cm. Cast off all sts.

Right front

The piece is worked sideways from centre front to cuff.

Cast on 286 (299) 299 (312) 312 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts, repeat the 13 st repeat for 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 times and finish the row by working the last 7 sts of the chart. Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the piece measures 16 (16) 16.5 (16.5) 17 cm, remove 26 sts from the right (= front) edge of the work on a stitch holder or waste yarn for collar. Continue following the lace chart with 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts left on the needle.

When the work measures 32 (34) 36 (38.5) 41 cm, starting from the left edge of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the right side of the garment. You have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts for the sleeve on the needle.

Continue following the lace chart and when the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the left edge (underarm) of the work. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Pick up the 26 sts on hold and follow the lace chart for 8 (8) 8.5 (8.5) 9 cm. Cast off all sts.

Back

The piece is worked sideways from right cuff to left cuff.

Cast on 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts and repeat the 13 st pattern to end. (Note! The pattern repeat won't line up with the total number of stitches). Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the work measures 13 (10) 11 (11) 8 cm, increase 1 st at the left edge. Repeat this increase every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts.

When the work measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, starting from the left edge cast on 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the right side of the garment = 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts.

When the back measures 48 (52) 56 (61) 66 cm from the cast on edge of the side, working on the WS of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the left side of the garment. Ypu have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts left for the left sleeve.

When the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the left edge. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the pieces to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

Join back and front pieces from shoulder and cuff being careful not to stitch too tightly.

Join collar ends and sew the collar in place.

Join side and underarm seams being careful not to stitch too tightly.

Add fringe along each front edge. For one fringe tassel, cut 5 strands of yarn of about 25 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through the tip of a front edge lace triangle, pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up.

Attach one tassel at the tip of each front edge lace triangle.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 96(104)112(122)132 cm Length of the garment 97(101)101(105)105 cm Underarm sleeve 48(49)50(50)51 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Lace stitch pattern
Follow the chart and written instructions.

Tension:
27 sts and 30 rows over the given lace stitch pattern = 10 cm square


Left front

The piece is worked sideways from centre front to cuff.

Cast on 286 (299) 299 (312) 312 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts, repeat the 13 st repeat for 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 times and finish the row by working the last 7 sts of the chart. Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the piece measures 16 (16) 16.5 (16.5) 17 cm, remove 26 sts from the left (= front) edge of the work on a stitch holder or waste yarn for collar. Continue following the lace chart with 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts left on the needle.

When the work measures 32 (34) 36 (38.5) 41 cm, starting from the right end of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the left side of the garment. You have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts for the sleeve on the needle.

Continue following the lace chart and when the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the right edge (underarm) of the work. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Pick up the 26 sts on hold and follow the lace chart for 8 (8) 8.5 (8.5) 9 cm. Cast off all sts.

Right front

The piece is worked sideways from centre front to cuff.

Cast on 286 (299) 299 (312) 312 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts, repeat the 13 st repeat for 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 times and finish the row by working the last 7 sts of the chart. Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the piece measures 16 (16) 16.5 (16.5) 17 cm, remove 26 sts from the right (= front) edge of the work on a stitch holder or waste yarn for collar. Continue following the lace chart with 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts left on the needle.

When the work measures 32 (34) 36 (38.5) 41 cm, starting from the left edge of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the right side of the garment. You have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts for the sleeve on the needle.

Continue following the lace chart and when the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the left edge (underarm) of the work. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Pick up the 26 sts on hold and follow the lace chart for 8 (8) 8.5 (8.5) 9 cm. Cast off all sts.

Back

The piece is worked sideways from right cuff to left cuff.

Cast on 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts. Knit 1 row (this will be the WS of the work).

Start following the chart from row 1: follow the chart from right to left, work first 6 sts and repeat the 13 st pattern to end. (Note! The pattern repeat won't line up with the total number of stitches). Keep repeating rows 1-4.

When the work measures 13 (10) 11 (11) 8 cm, increase 1 st at the left edge. Repeat this increase every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts.

When the work measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, starting from the left edge cast on 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the right side of the garment = 260 (273) 273 (286) 286 sts.

When the back measures 48 (52) 56 (61) 66 cm from the cast on edge of the side, working on the WS of the work cast off 208 (219) 217 (230) 226 sts for the left side of the garment. Ypu have now 52 (54) 56 (56) 60 sts left for the left sleeve.

When the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 1 st at the left edge. Repeat this decrease every 2 cm for 17 (19) 19 (19) 21 times more = 34 (34) 36 (36) 38 sts.

When the sleeve measures 48 (49) 50 (50) 51 cm, work the next WS row as follows:

Next row (WS): K to end.

Cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the pieces to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

Join back and front pieces from shoulder and cuff being careful not to stitch too tightly.

Join collar ends and sew the collar in place.

Join side and underarm seams being careful not to stitch too tightly.

Add fringe along each front edge. For one fringe tassel, cut 5 strands of yarn of about 25 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through the tip of a front edge lace triangle, pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up.

Attach one tassel at the tip of each front edge lace triangle.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

Reviews

Write Your Own Review

Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account