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Long lace socks Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika

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"Ice cream kiss" lace socks The lace border on these socks features the same cool blue as the rest of the sock. Knitted from Novita Nalle, with Novita Nalle Taika on the border.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 37
Skill level Expert
Long lace socks Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika
€5.90
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Long lace socks Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika
Long lace socks Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N011837
    Pattern details
    Size
    approx. 38

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (324) Glacier less than 200 g
    and
    Novita Nalle Taika (828) Haze 50 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 2½ mm
    and
    3 mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge.

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Lace on the cuff

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn cast on 8 sts and purl 1 row. Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work rows 2–16 of the chart and then repeat rows 1–16 six times in total. Bind off. Sew the edges of the lace together.

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn pick up 80 sts from the top edge of the lacing and distribute them onto four needles: 26, 14, 14 and 26 sts. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.

    Begin working ribbing in the round with k2 and work for 8 rounds. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to working ribbing in the round starting with p2 and work for 8 rounds. Fold the cuff to the wrong side of the work along the stockinette section (the cuff is folded when the sock is finished).

    Switch to the single-coloured Nalle yarn and work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Begin working ribbing in the round with k2 and work for 7 cm.

    Begin the lace patterns: Needle I: work B–C from chart II and knit the rest of the sts. Needles II and III: k5, A–B from chart III (=18 sts), k5. Needle IV: knit all sts until 4 sts remain, A–B from chart II (=4 sts). Keep working rows 2–3 on chart II and rows 1–10 on chart III. On the instep you will at times need to move sts from needle to needle. Continue in this manner until you have worked rows 1–10 of chart III once.

    Begin the calf decreases: at the beginning of needle I work the first 4 sts following the lace pattern, then skp (=slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over) and knit to end. Work needles II and III following the stitch patterns. On needle IV knit until 6 sts remain, k2tog and work the other 4 sts following the lace pattern. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 8th round 11 more times. 2 sts decreased each time = 56 sts, 14 sts per needle. Work these sts following the stitch patterns until the leg measures approx. 35 cm from the folded cuff.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: *slip 1 (yarn in back), k1*, repeat *–* 13 more times.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2 until the heel flap measures 28 rows. Work one more WS row.

    Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 10 sts remain at the other end. Skp, turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel flap sts onto 2 needles: 5 sts each.

    Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts using the left needle onto which you just moved 5 sts. Then knit all sts on needles II and III. Then using the needle with 5 sts pick up and knit 15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap.

    Continue working with all 68 sts and following the lace pattern on the instep. Begin the gusset decreases. At the end of needle I: k2tog, k1. At the beginning of needle IV: k1, skp. Repeat the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 14 sts remain on each needle. Continue working the lace pattern and stockinette st until the foot measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin the toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Continue working the lace pattern on needles II and III as long as you can. Repeat the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then repeat the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in the ends. Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks. Fold the lacing on the cuff.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Size approx. 38

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Lace pattern:
    follow the chart and the written instructions.
    - Ribbing in the round:
    *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge:
    24 sts in stockinette stitch = 10 cm

    Lace on the cuff

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn cast on 8 sts and purl 1 row. Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work rows 2–16 of the chart and then repeat rows 1–16 six times in total. Bind off. Sew the edges of the lace together.

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn pick up 80 sts from the top edge of the lacing and distribute them onto four needles: 26, 14, 14 and 26 sts. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.

    Begin working ribbing in the round with k2 and work for 8 rounds. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to working ribbing in the round starting with p2 and work for 8 rounds. Fold the cuff to the wrong side of the work along the stockinette section (the cuff is folded when the sock is finished).

    Switch to the single-coloured Nalle yarn and work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Begin working ribbing in the round with k2 and work for 7 cm.

    Begin the lace patterns: Needle I: work B–C from chart II and knit the rest of the sts. Needles II and III: k5, A–B from chart III (=18 sts), k5. Needle IV: knit all sts until 4 sts remain, A–B from chart II (=4 sts). Keep working rows 2–3 on chart II and rows 1–10 on chart III. On the instep you will at times need to move sts from needle to needle. Continue in this manner until you have worked rows 1–10 of chart III once.

    Begin the calf decreases: at the beginning of needle I work the first 4 sts following the lace pattern, then skp (=slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over) and knit to end. Work needles II and III following the stitch patterns. On needle IV knit until 6 sts remain, k2tog and work the other 4 sts following the lace pattern. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 8th round 11 more times. 2 sts decreased each time = 56 sts, 14 sts per needle. Work these sts following the stitch patterns until the leg measures approx. 35 cm from the folded cuff.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: *slip 1 (yarn in back), k1*, repeat *–* 13 more times.

    Keep repeating rows 1–2 until the heel flap measures 28 rows. Work one more WS row.

    Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 10 sts remain at the other end. Skp, turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel flap sts onto 2 needles: 5 sts each.

    Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts using the left needle onto which you just moved 5 sts. Then knit all sts on needles II and III. Then using the needle with 5 sts pick up and knit 15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap.

    Continue working with all 68 sts and following the lace pattern on the instep. Begin the gusset decreases. At the end of needle I: k2tog, k1. At the beginning of needle IV: k1, skp. Repeat the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 14 sts remain on each needle. Continue working the lace pattern and stockinette st until the foot measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin the toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Continue working the lace pattern on needles II and III as long as you can. Repeat the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then repeat the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in the ends. Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks. Fold the lacing on the cuff.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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